What did you mod today?

I cant use it because few things:

  1. There is no way and no reasons to make ‘mod reverse’ without clicky switch. There is just no ways to recognize this 1.2sec border with electronic switch.
  2. This is not keychain light. I want to choose levels when I want. Why I have to turn it off and set required mod next time?
    I have a simple test for any ui. Give flashlight to your grandmother. With good flashlight (zebralight) she will manage it easily after 5 minutes. With this ui, she will kick it away after meeting strobe mod.

Press and hold,
Release when it’s at desired brightness.

Ill never use ramping. This is toy.(keeper :smiley: )

I don’t particularly care for Narsil either, it’s too complex for me. That’s why I flash all my Emisar’s with Anduril.

I really like the ramping feature set though, have been using ramping in my larger lights for quite some time now.

I hate each and every one of them from the bottom of my hearth… But only because I don’t want to cycle through. It is driving me nuts.

And of course… CRX that is awesome! :+1:

Just cut a AR coated thin glass lens down to fit in a small EagTac D25C. The stock glass put a sickly green hue to the output tint. This new one has a better AR coating that leaves the output tint pretty much as seen without a lens at all. Don’t particularly like cutting glass down, but it wasn’t a lot and it went pretty smoothly.

Also put an XP-L HI in a NiWalker Vostro this morning, with a Convoy XP centering ring it makes a very nice beam in he 1460 lumen range for some 357Kcd. A friend asked me to get it running again, the de-domed XP-G2 that was in it had blown both bond wires.

Also worked on my new Emisar D1S, I got it yesterday afternoon and have flashed Anduril, changed the MOSFET to an SIR404DP and now it has an XP-L2 with sliced off dome and the sides trimmed clean to clear up the aura. Works pretty nicely now, was making 2290 lumens last night, re-charging the cell to see where it falls after the slice and dice. :wink:

How did you cut down the glas lens?

The D1S is now making 2021.7 lumens, so it lost a couple hundred in the slice and dice transition. Tail current is 7.98A on a Samsung 30Q flat top. The aura is pretty clear now, virtually all the ugly yellow is gone with the dicing. :wink:

I used to work as Shipping Manager at an Industrial Supply shop. We carried high end Norton abrasives and I learned to really like the Norton sanding belts for my belt sander. I used a belt sander so equipped to get the glass lens almost exact then used a high end Norton sandpaper sheet to clean it up. There’s a small bit of fragmentation at the edges but it’s outside the beam area. I used a 50 grit belt, could have minimized the rough edges by switching belts but my dang sander has such stout springs in it I chose to forego that today. Tightening the bezel back down on the Vostro this morning got my neck hurting. Ugh!

I modded a plunger style light tonight. It was originally an 18xXML-T6 now it’s a 15x SST-40 it takes 5x32650 batteries and has the side switch. Used a low resistance FET driver with ramping UI. How many lumens? No idea, but it’s fairly bright. I could have gone with 18xSST-40 and used only three batteries, but I’m pretty sure it’s actually brighter this way, plus now it’s got decent run time too. I’ve built enough of these monster flooders to be convinced that battery power is the #1 limiting factor on any of them. I seriously considered putting in XHP-50’s and using 5 batteries per 2 emitters (maybe Lipo 32650 3.2v) but I think the light is actually more useful this way. Who knows, if I don’t end up selling it I might still give it a shot one of these days, just to see if it’s actually noticeably brighter to the naked eye or not. I’m sure it would be at least for a short period of time, but maybe not much brighter after a minute or two.

18sixfifty,
It’s pretty painful to read about a killer build like that and not see a pic of it or a beam shot to drool over.

:slight_smile:

OK, OK, OK, I’ll try and get some beamshots tonight, jeashh. :smiley:

A post like that without them is borderline rude. I was tempted to press the rude button! You should know better by now :slight_smile:

lol, well here is a pic. Sorry about it being turned sideways, I have no idea why it did that or how to fix it. I'm not used to using anything but photobucket and now that I can't use it anymore, I'm sort of at a loss.

The first pic is the SST-40x15 The second one is the SST-40x4 that is in a 502b single 18650 light. On the second pic you can see the bluish tint in the center and some warm tint closer, that's from taking a bit of the phospur off after the de-dome. It came out a lot more noticeable in the picture. I'd take some pics of a stock light in the same spot for comparison but I don't think I actually own any stock lights. The sst-40x15 is actually that blinding in the snow.

:smiley: :smiley: :smiley:
I predict an early snow melt in your area of the world.
Thanks!

LOL, my wife always asks me after I come back in from playing with my lights if there is still snow left outside. I tell her I’m doing my part trying to help bring about global warming, when you live as far north as I do it doesn’t sound like a bad thing.

Is that called a white out? We dont get snow here where I live.
Hows the spots in the eyes? :+1:

No, a white out is when it snows so hard you can’t see two feet in front of your face, that only happens every other day or so. Snowblind is the term you are looking for and yeah, I know you don’t get snow, but you do have to put up with an awful lot of Australians, so It’s only fair we get blizzards to even things out. lol

:laughing:
I could argue one of your points but this isn’t the place. :stuck_out_tongue:
Snowblind it is. The wife and dogs were snowblinded in the lounge last night when I switched on my latest torch build. :person_facepalming:

Better watch what you are doing with those high powered lights or you might be swapping sleeping arrangements with the dog.