Thanks CRX, ironically I had forgotten about your extensive list… 
Edit: Thank you indeed, I had forgotten that I used a 12A driver and have it stepped down to 9A, there’s so much MORE to this! 
Yeah the choice of output is really cool.
Hi, i will assemble a similar light (nichia 9080 C8 triple).
You measured the Amps in DD?
Any problem about the heat in the driver? I tell you this because as far as i know the vf of this led is more or less 3,12v at 2 amps.
So,
4,20-3,12*6= 6,48W
Probably its in the limit.
Regards.
Driver developer posted another formula (I suppose it can be found somewhere in datasheet).
That formula is taken from the datasheet. I don´t know if there will be another.
Probably someone can clarify it.
A few have left but about 8 X6, S5, SC remain, 5 are triples, 3 modded singles.
I did get new fresh meat X6 in the mail yesterday, have another LD-A4 9A & Luxeon V to try again. Hence the interest in the X6 build.
Thanks for sharing the info IC3.
And thanks for the cheat sheet CRX. Haven’t been on that page since I got the LD4A driver, didn’t know it was there.
just a heads up: Without looking at you info, it was posted the earlier by LED4P some info may get updated in his Instruction PDF.
I didn’t, I ran it in direct drive for a bit out of curiosity and it got hot really quick, I would guess it was doing at least 10 amps.
So I would suggest doing as I did and filling the driver cavity with silicon cubes or something similar, it seems enough to keep the driver from overheating. Also your formula is a worst case scenario with a battery with 0 voltage drop and a circuit with 0 resistance, in reality the voltage overhead will be lower, even less as the battery discharges.
I also just did a runtime test at 6A with a 18650GA while keeping the light in a jar of water to avoid throttling.
It seems the driver is able to keep regulation for almost 20 minutes before it starts dropping (the slow rise is due to air bubbles forming in the jar and increasing light dispersion but I would guess current kept costant during that phase), but it doesn’t drop very much and at 30 minutes it is still doing ~70% of the initial output. Resting voltage at the end of the test was 3.25V, meaning ~3Ah were used from the battery.
Today was an M1 day:
On the left made by request:
XM-L2 U4, BLF A17DD, bypassed springs
4,75A
1548 lumens
On the right made for myself:
SST40, TA17 OTSM, bypassed springs
8,25A
2142 lumens
I had some debugging with a collegue on the TA17 driver. It wasn’t worked since I putted it together. It drawed 0,7A and the 7135s were warm. I measured 5,3 Ohms between batt+ and GND
Removed all 7135s. Nothing changed. Removed FET, removed C1 capacitor. Nothing. We looked it on X-ray. Found nothing. Removed R5 4,7 Ohm resistor and it was good but on the C1 pads I measured short. Then I started look very carefulli around the C1 pads for some short on PCB. I saw a little bump but almost invisible. scraped it. And found copper. But so thin that doesn’t showed on Xray and I cant see it through solder mask. I cutted it and now it works after I resoldered everything.
OshP? what board?
think someone recently had a bad 5.3 tail board from them too.
Oshpark. That was me too half year ago
Noooo, Recent.
I can’t remember anything after 2 weeks.
Ah, here… gchart and it was the 5.3
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/32103/1644
You are right, with all the resistances: springs,wire, swich and also the battery that not start in 4,2v at 6 amps, there would be ok. Also the gain in this leds from go to 2 amps per led (6) to 3-4 amps per led (9-1x) its very little.
I will go with 6 amps like you, and hope it can hold the 6 amps for more than 5 minutes, becouse have more mass.
Btw you use 20awg wire right?
Regards.
Actually I used 22awg, easier to work with and good enough for me.
Good luck with the build
:))
CRX Tiny XM-L2 16mm x 8mm
I will go with 20awg.
Its take time to get all the parts, but it will be a really nice high cri flashlight (1500 led lumens), that mantain the max for a lot of time
Thanks
I would lose that in an instant. 
Too cool!! :+1:
You should put it in 18650 extension tube because it can be lost so easily
Yip, misplaced it three times already
Still hate its UI, but neverless added 8x7135 board to the Q8 driver:
You’re funny Kiriba, you are the first person i know of who doesn’t like Narsil