Just got’s to know how to machine it… Copper SMD re-flow plate…
Copper :heart_eyes:
looking at building a mini thrower was going to use a C8 host but, i have just seen the eagle eye X6 host on sale.
Which is better in your opinions?
If the C8 is Convoy…
I say C8
thanks vwpieces, convoy it is 
:+1:
Welcome,
XP-L HI was a deal this mornin hope you got one.
went with the silver v2-1a, wanted the u6-3a but the coupon fin17 had wasn’t available for my country :cry:
but I did have enough GB points to get the V2-1a for 15usd inc postage.
That is a cool piece of work KawiBoy! 
(as a side note, I like my reflow plate from aluminium because it cleans easier because solder will not stick to it)
We make the Vertical Lathes that spin these up, this was part of a test run before a Quality run. The little company that purchased these machines, has a sticker on some computers, something about something inside, core something, a mom and pops outfit. 
They prefer Copper…. so it seems…
Mom and Pops sound like they are intelligent people.
But I also use a block of aluminum.
That is some really nice work KB.
I did a simple mod on the first Convoy C8 I bought back in 2014.
Stripped the anodization with sodium hydroxide, stacked 3 additional chips on a 8x7135 nanjg board and popped an XP-L2 on copper star.
Nice work , that non-polished look is awesome Is the led xp-l2 or xp-l ? It looks like an xp-l from your pic .
I really liked the satin silver finish of the light.
As for the emitter, you are correct. The emitter’s white pad and the visible bond wires indicate that this is an XP-L!
I put an 6A LD-A4 together with a 400uA red ILC-0 inside my current favourite light (X6 with triple 219B SW40 R9080). Really satisfied with the result. Here are some pics of the assembly process:
I didn’t bypass the springs because they are phosphor-bronze and current won’t go above 6A
The white wire is for the temperature sense resitor
To help the driver better dissipate the heat I filled the cavity with silicon cubes
After setting the temperature limit to a reasonable level, from testing it with no airflow it seems to be able to hold the full 6A with a fully charged Sanyo GA for about 4 minutes before thermal throttling occurs, and should do even better with a partially discharged cell / some airflow.
@ 1C3
Nice build! like the red tail too.
where did you mount the external NTC?
Because the 32mm noctigon has more than one connection for positive wire, i placed it on the border of one that was avaiable and then attached the wire to the other side of the ntc, pretty easy to do if it wasn’t for how small this ntc is but still doable.
Yes they are microscopic…
I ask because 4 min is pretty good run time. But you used 6A. DD enabled?
My S2+ Luxeon V, 9A, NTC on MCPCB is wicked short on highest temp setting. I just disabled it. Use Driver thermal but now it just shuts off completely.
Wrong host by far, single LED at 8.4A. Need a different host with more meat to it. Nice LED tint even on DD.
Keep in mind with this being a triple it has a big copper piece right behind the mcpcb, and the Eagle Eye X6 has the best heatsink capability in his size class among popular hosts. And by reasonable temperature I meant head too hot to hold, but with battery tube not even close to being too hot. But yeah the convoy S2+ with the brass pill and basically 0 heatsinking must be a good hand warmer at those currents. I’m going to build an E2L triple with a 9A LD-B4, I plan to keep it at 7.5A but maybe I’ll test it at 9A, see if it does any better than the convoy
(Edit: forgot to say it but yes 6A costant current, I generally don’t like DDing 219B’s)
I was probably the first to build an Eagle Eye X6 triple, back in ’14 I think, and it quickly became a favorite. The host is well made, the extra copper in a triple makes for a nicely balanced light and the output is very good. Nice build with some new tech, good touch.
The Eagle Eye X6 is far and away my favorite light. I currently have 14 X6’s and 5 X5’s, have built dozens!
Neven’s new driver’s with the ability to set output through the clicky switch itself is very nice. I have one not built with and one in a light, a full copper 18350 Sinner triple. I set it at 9A and it works beautifully. Probably won’t remember if/when the time comes to change the output, I do remember it’s pretty easy, but am not sure of the steps involved.
