I have not, but thought of looking the melting temp of PMMA from another discussion. Ledil or Carclo may have something in a datasheet.
If anyone has I would think DBC.
Was that in the X6R?
Yeah the X6R. I just swapped the emitters to domed XP-LāS, and I noticed an aberration in one optic after about a 2min run on turbo.
Iām giggling as I typeā¦ at the Killer Light.
PMMA melts at 320F/160C
Compositions vary as do the temps.
Boiling point: 392Ā°F (200Ā°C)
Itās like an internal stress fracture. You canāt feel anything on the surface.
Whoa, thatās probably caused by the radiating lightā¦ :confounded:
Must have been a speck of something on the outside (?)
Maybe it was a bubble or inclusion from new. Hole at the emitter looks OK. I would think emitter heat would have cause distortion at the bottom of the cone first.
Oh well, the light still works and I was planning on replacing the optic anyways. Iāll just keep it off turbo. Iām just glad it didnāt hurt my emitters.
I have seen similar stress fractures in TIRs. I had trimmed a khatod 25mm quad optic to make it fit in an S2, and the next day it was fractured all over.
Iāve run sliced XHP-50ās at almost 9000 lumens through a CUTE-3 with no issues. 
Edit: Eagle Eye X6 with an extension tube.
Maybe I cranked on the bezel too hard, or pressed too hard when sanding down the honeycomb, or maybe there was a flaw from the factory. Who knows.
Not really a mod, but got two of these in mail today for modding later,
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-PC10W-Cree-LED-Driving-Lights-Round-Headlight-Motorcycle-Spot-Flood-Beam-Work-Light-Motorbike-Auxiliary/32663795279.html, One flood for the right side and one spot for the left of the road.
Got them pretty cheap, tore one of them down to check whats inside. Single board LED+Driver, With what looks like an XM-L. Planning to put XHP50s in there and and then mount it on my Bonneville.
There is a lot of silicon glue inside. Donāt know how to remove that yet. Need to find a 12v 1 mode driver which is small enough to fit in that little space behind the emitter now.
Yes, Lattice Bright 5050 looks like XM-L 
yes, I have from kaidomain
Wow, I bought a FX-35 as well for MTG2, for modding a UF-F13 Just a few hours ago.
āFX35 22mm 3V - 4.5V 2.5A 5-Mode Boost Driver Circuit Boardā. I will send updates once it reaches here.
With Justin no longer posting mods (often several at a time) itās understandable that there are fewer mods posted since no one is as prolific as he was. Also, emphasis has shifted towards the electronic side with more work on drivers or lighted tail caps and less on modifying the hosts themselves. More doesnāt mean all and less doesnāt mean none, itās just the ebb and flow of the various talents and interests of members. As also has been said, some things that were exciting and new are now old hat and not worth posting such as stripping or baking ano. Iāve never been prolific but I havenāt stopped modding either.
You will change also reflector?
Probably not, Will try to play with XHP50 first, and then if I donāt like it, will put an MTG2 by enlarging the reflector. The driver should give about 15watts of power, to be honest I have not tried that driver before. May be I might be able to boost it further.
Modding (one of) my SK68 clones, putting a XP-E2 6000K in (taking an XP-G2 i put in earlier out), increasing head travel, should go from almost touching the LED to zoomed in (projecting the emitter).
Stock driver.
Thinking about getting XP-C for some other ones:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XP-C-Q5-WH-WJ-107LM-5000K-5700K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590295497.html
Hi, I am quite interested in the result of your mod, usually branded- motorcycle auxiliary lights are quite overpriced. Good but too expensive. A pair of branded spot light cost minimum 150 bucks and rarely come with a correct temperature (all bluish - above 5000k) .
Hope you managed to build your combo, good lighting is a must on motorcycle!
Cheers
hi and thanks for the info.
I noticed that many people are confused about CAN BUS error free bulb electronics. I tried this led bulb on direct 12v socket and it works, very bright nice amber color. But at the moment I use them with the factory relay, it becomes totally unstable, blink fast, than slow, then no more. Parkinsonās ride!
I thought it has blown the fuse, but nope, fuse still ok. At that point, the signal light only run when the bike is moving (battery+alternator), means the canbus electronic from the bulb request a higher amp than usual motorcycle turn signal current.
I was thinking to by pass the electronic for that reason.
If those component are just driver/resistance combination, a new dedicated led relay should resolve the issue.