@ Dale- Ah, I forgot that it wasn’t a plated piece.
@Rich- Your right about the preference thing, to each his own. 
I think the through hole is a good standard for FET builds but a single sided pcb obviates the need for it, especially for small hosts where IR losses are already minimal.
The reflector is a Deerelight reflector that I have not been able to find since this was made 2 years ago. I have opened up the bottom for clearing the XP-L and now I’ve sanded it and polished it. I also beveled/profiled the outer base for pad clearance. Things are really TIGHT down in there! 
Not that you would know anything about that…. 
No disrespect intended but the exact opposite but you guys are freaks in your abilities. Keep it up.
Thanks for the pencil eraser tips to hold the sandpaper, very good idea :), i have been thinking of a way to secure a tiny piece when i sand of the anodizing inside tight 10440 lights.
6-8mm drill bit and masking tape to hold a wrap of 220 wet/dry sand paper. Wrap the host with more tape as it gets hot when you spin the bit with a drill. Do this in water with 600 w/d to get it glass smooth. Works on aluminum, brass, copper, etc.
For dealing with irregularities on pill surfaces use contact cement to stick the sandpaper to a flat ended Dremel stone.
Thanks Scott, using a drill with a taped sandpaper in water sound much more efficient i will try that.
For some reason i must figure out exactly how am going to do a mod in my head and visualize it first to able to do it, i way to easily get stumped if i start & hope to figure it out as a go.
I read that! Not sure what to expect and what is expected, but I will be monitoring the mail :-)
When are you going to start putting 10mm drivers up for sale? I need one, and I don’t have the ability to build my own just yet.
I have built some, but I don’t want to flash my own firmware. This one doesn’t look too bad in the photos. I might try it if a kit is offered, or I might buy it ready built if that is offered. So far, I can fit only three 7135s in an SS-5039 head, so for much over an amp. I have to revert to pure direct drive.
Does the smaller controller have any disadvantages?
The only disadvantages that i know of, is the MMU version of the attiny13a must be programmed before you reflow the board.
Thats why RMM made available an programing adapter to simplify the process Otherwise it is the same good old attiny13a only smaller.
And you can’t reprogram it if there isn’t any programing pads exposed somewhere on the driver, i think someone said that it can be programed with some pogo pins if there is room for it, but on as tiny as this single sided 10mm driver is i don’t imagine where that could fit. But i would be happy to wrong on that of course
I am not sure i trust my soldering skills yet for something this small, but a kit for sale is a good idea or at least the programmed mmu , maybe the reflow isn’t to tricky
Because the reprogramming issue, i hope the exact components spec can be made available tuned for the Efest IMR10440 battery, with a firmware with correct LVP for that battery. I think most of us are planning to use this little driver with that battery.
The problem is that the actual resistance of the two resistors used for LVP can vary. Using better than 1% resistors would help.
Thats interesting, i didn’t know better than 1% existed.
But i still hope i can buy a kit with everything tuned so at least it is safe.
Personally i don’t need any LVP i just change the battery as soon as it starts to dim to much, but i want to be able to gift some really bright tiny lights to some less aware family members that need every safety feature in the book, like a short turbo timer, LVP & reverse current protection
Yep, 0.5% is $0.05ea and 0.1% is $0.10- 0.20 at mouser.
The only one’s I see that Mouser has in stock are only 100mW. Is that enough? They show a .5% in the 1/4 watt range but it’s non-stocked.
Its just for sensing the voltage level, very little current. 100mW is certainly more than enough.
Are you looking at only 0805? I was in 0603.
It's kinda pointless to go for more precision than 1% on the resistors.
You’ve certainly built up more drivers. You haven’t seen enough variance in LVP to be worth it?
I have only seen LVP at work on a couple of occasions, when deep testing a light. I’ve never had one step down or shut down in actual use. So in the end, it’s not even really necessary FOR ME that it be there.
Rich is right. The internal reference less accurate than that anyway.
Not only the internal reference, but remember that down at 3V or so you are already down to virtually nothing left in the cell anyways. If you were to look at the discharge curve, you are already falling off the cliff, so to speak. Even if you are 0.05V off, what difference does it really make in terms of runtime? Not much.