Here are the instructions, at 25 percent size. You can view and download the full-size scan here.
If you don't want to (or can't) solder, there's a conductive trace pen that can be used to accomplish the same result.
I purchased one at Radio Shack (Tandy) but they are available online for far less.
LOL at the "C-D-A-B" order on the chart.....
Please tell us more about your new lights, comparison Balder vs. Xtar. Nice torches you have!!
you didnt get bored by your beloved Romisen did ya? haha
yeah, we all sometimes want a change. i got several lights in usage rotation. Quark, Xeno E03, and the Romisen RC-29 for my 1x AA-sized lights!
I'm still waiting for my Balder SE-1 and EZAA R2 to arrive. I lost my Romisen RC-29 II 1AA but this week I replaced it with a custom version: 2-stage, 14500-only, which I picked up for just $15 shipped on CPF Marketplace.
Last night, I went outside and tested all my 1x14500 throwers, each with an AW cell (protected or IMR):
- Dereelight XPG-R5 D26 module in a FiveMega body
- Romisen RC-29 II 2-stage custom for 14500 only
- Romisen RC-G2 II (overdriven; its clickie now works only as a momentary switch)
- XTAR WK26
The Dereelight, RC-G2 II, and XTAR were very close; they differed more in their tints than in their throw. XTAR was coolest, RC-G2 II the warmest.
The RC-29 II threw much farther than the other three, despite its warm tint (5C). That's the power of an aspherical optic. But the RC-29 (31mm head) is too fat for my pants pocket or shirt pocket, so I await the Balder SE-1 and EZ AA R2 to see which lights will end up there.
I have spent the past day with the WK26 on my keyring. I must say, its 22.5mm head is not a problem at all. And it's the lightest light of them all.
Using the DIY directions provided by XTAR, I have disabled all modes except High. I may add back Low, but not Medium; I had too much trouble distinguishing it from High.
thanks for the info, very interesting. you surely have a large keyring. i cant stand *any* AA-sized light for my keyring. i do pocket a Quark with its pocket clip, though.
keyring .. i only "wear" 1x AAA lights.
I should add, kreisler, that the WK26 is attached to my keyring ALONG WITH a Peak El Capitan 1AA (18mm wide), my keyring floodlight...
Paul, one day you should really share a picture of your keyring. we wanna see 
I'll need to wait till my wife's laptop is hooked up to our scanner. I can tell you this: My keyring EDC addiction isn't quite as serious as it used to be....
THIS IS IMMENSE AND FANTASTICO!! 
Thanks for sharing!
Okay, now i get it. you dont ride the keyring deep in the pocket of your pants but clipped to the outside, right? ( Looks like you need all these mini instruments for professional use. Too cool. )
(( i have literally 1 single keyring to which 2 keys are attached and the Lumintop Worm and a general chip/coin for the supermarket trolley. i can ride it deep in my pockets. no clip, no carabiner. ))
Must be a little heavy your "keyring" lmao! Amazing, man.
Hehe. My old Impala SS (the "boat") had a key just like that.
The little black chip in the key is part of the V.A.T.S. system, first used on the Corvette. If the signal from the chip is not what is expected, the car won't start.
Actually, I keep my keyring deep in my front left pocket.
The yellow thingie at the bottom of the photo is a 2-meter tape rule; the silver tube holds 5 spare bills, from $1 to $20. You can read my tape rule review and my keyring tube review on EDC Forums. I now carry only one spare bill (a $20 bill), in a slim keyring toothpick holder.
Thanks for the links. So i wasnt the first with the idea to share a pic of your keys haha . I'll do some more reading over there.. (( most of my questions on BLF or CPF are pre-sales related so once i got all my ordered items kreisler will go back to normal boring life and no more forums lol ))
And now the XTAR too on the keychain?? how's that gonna work out. Huge pockets in the pants !!
Left to right: toothpick holder (holding a spare $20 bill), Peak LED El Capitan 1xAA flashlight; GM Oldsmobile keys; spare pen; house keys; XTAR WP26 1x14500 flashlight. If the EZAA R2 throws well enough, I'll move the XTAR to my shirtpocket, next to my Blackberry.
i see 7 keyrings!!! (2 standard rings and 5 small rings) (( i really have 1 ring only ))
That's a lot you carry deep in your pocket -- amazing how you can do that haha.
The XTAR is certainly a very attractive looking designed torch.. although that's not what you're not after with your keyring lights. I've understood that you're looking for a slim and throwy keyring light.. no toys. (well, Lumintop Worm, iTP A3, and Klarus MiX6 are no toys for that matter lol)
Great exhibition of your very personal items, thanks so much!!
My Balder SE-1 has arrived. Since each light uses a Cree XP-E R3 emitter and a single 14500 cell, here are my impressions; beam shots will follow after I receive a third such light, the Nitecore EZ AA OEM. Each light was powered by an AW IMR cell.
- throw: The XTAR wins. I would estimate that it outthrows the Balder by 20 percent. To put the XTAR's throw in perspective, it equals that of my Romisen G2 (XR-E Q3, 5A tint) overdriven on a 14500 cell. I'd estimate 4800 lux XTAR and Romisen, 3900 lux Balder. That's impressive when you consider that the XTAR's 22.5mm head is 1.5mm narrower than the Balder's and 4mm narrower than the Romisen's. Of course, the Romisen delivers a lovely warmish tint that I find qualitatively more useful and pleasing.
I can't compare the lights on 1.3V (NiMH), 1.5V (alkaline), 1.6V (L91 lithium), or 1.7V (NiZn) cells, because none of these cells will turn the XTAR on. The XTAR's circuit is designed for 2.7 to 4.2V. A 3-volt 14505 primary lithium cell will power the XTAR, but just barely, delivering an estimated 20 lumens. - tint: Both beams are on the cool side. The Balder's beam is cooler...not blueish, but too cool for my liking, probably because the Balder's emitter is so overdriven.
- beam profile: The XTAR's hot spot is a perfect circle; think of a Fenix LD15 on steroids. The Balder's hotspot is the same diameter as the XTAR's. Both hot spots are artifact-free, but the Balder's is splotchy and nondescript, like an amoeba. Each light's corona is a well-defined circle measuring 10 to 12 times as wide as the hotspot.
- heat management: After 3 minutes in my hand, the Balder became uncomfortably hot, particularly its head. The XTAR's body and head remained comfortable to hold, even after the light had sat 3 minutes on a table. This is an impressive feat for such a slim, lightweight light.
- switch:Each light uses a forward clickie. The Balder's is easier to click. Both switches seem well-made; neither switch feels cheap.
- user interface: If, like me, you hate strobes, each light will please. By design, strobe and SOS are absent in the Balder and can be programmed out of the XTAR, using a slim pencil to short out contacts according to the table in post 20 (above). The Balder's 3 modes are High-Medium-Low; this order can't be changed. Low is very low, indeed: less than 10 lumens, even on an IMR cell. To repeatedly flash the Balder's momentary button without changing modes, wait at least 1.5 seconds.
I can't say much about the XTAR's user interface because I wasted no time removing all modes but High....
Conclusion: As you can probably tell, I'm completely won over by the XTAR WK26. XTAR took a chance when it designed this light for such a narrow voltage range. But the gamble paid off. The WK26's driver is amazingly efficient, generating little heat. That's a good thing, for the WK26 weighs next to nothing and would no doubt have become a hot potato if the driver were less efficient.
I'm stunned that so much throw can come out of such a narrow bezel. Think of the best 1x14500 throwers. Leaving aside the nonturbos, the throwiest have bezels of 25mm to 27mm. The WP26 throws with the best of these. AFAIK, it's throw-to-diameter ratio is matched by few other 1x14500 lights: the original FourSevens AA (22mm), the Olight I15 (21.5mm), and perhaps the Tiablo TL-1 (23mm).
I bought the WP26 with the intent of keeping in my shirt pocket as a quick-draw thower and a 17.5mm EZ AA (OEM) on my keyring. But the WP26 fits my front trouser pocket so unobtrusively, a second WK26 may earn a spot on my keyring, that one programmed for Hi-Medium-Lo.
I can't think of any way I would improve the WK26. Would I have liked it to be able to use drugstore cells in a pinch? Of course. But if if could do so, it wouldn't throw as well on a lithium-ion cell. And the less-efficient driver would have made it just another hot potato.
By allowing 16 modal combinations, XTAR's Do It Yourself (DIY) programmability gives the WK26 a tremendous advantage over lights whose interface requires you to take-it-or-leave-it. I hope the company sees fit to add the DIY programmability to the WK26's 1.2-1.7V stablemate, the WK25B.
What does liking Solarforce have to do with a review on another flashlight? Yes, I think the Wk25 was/is worthless and I do not feel that way because it's not a Solarforce. I feel that way because I do not like dim flashlights. I do not compare everything to Solarforce, least of all a flashlight that there is no direct Solarforce competitor.
Also; the new Wk26 is not a Wk25. Assuming I will not like the Wk26 because I hated the Wk25 is stupid. A lot of people like the Wk25, including the person I raffled it off to, but I don't happen to be one of them. It's okay for two men to feel differently about something - including the Wk25.
Budgeteer; does liking Solarforce somehow diminish my appraisal of the Wk25? Am I not able to have an objective opinion on anything else because I am "sold on" Solarforce? Your assumtion is incorrect and for example, if I didn't happen to like AA flashlights, I would never respond with something such as, "well, Budgeteer is 'sold on' AA lights and he has his own way but at least he is entertaining to read."
Because I consider you a freind, I am flummoxed by this.
Foy
Excellent, Paul, thanks for that comparison :) Just a few more questions:
- Quality: threads, HAIII, etc. Which one feels better?
- Are HI-MED-LO modes well spaced?
- What about regulation? Can you make some tests?
- What about PWM on all modes?
Can you post some beam shots also? Thanks in advance ;)
SashiX,
I'm a bad judge of build quality; both lights seem OK in build, threads, and surface finish. I will let others compare their quality.
Here are 10ft (3m) beam shots, taken in my basement under these conditions: 1/30 second, f/4, ISO 80, white balance set to sunlight. I shot in RAW, cropped, reduced noise, and sharpened; the exposures are untouched.
PS: My walls really are Pepto-Bismol pink.
In ascending order of throw:
Peak El Capitan Level 8 (highest): XP-G R5 emitter, AW IMR cell:
Peak Volcan Level 8 (highest) (XP-G R5):
(I don't understand why the El Capitan's tint is warmer.)
Balder SE-1 (XP-E R3) on an AW IMR 14500 cell:
Romisen RC-G2 II (XR-E Q3 5A) overdriven on a 3V 14505 lithium primary cell:
I later tried to reshoot this light with an AW 14500 cell, but that killed the light. It will no longer work on any cell. 
XTAR WP26 (XP-E R3) on an AW IMR 14500:
Romisen RC-29 II (XR-E Q3 5A) with 2-stage driver on HIGH (AW 14500 protected cell):
