17mm & 20/26/27mm single-sided DD/FET driver release: A17DD-SO8 / A20DD-SO8 / etc

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vresto
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question-if i use this driver in triple xpl for one 18650,it has still the same characterics? mode groups,memory on/off?
thanks:)

EDC-Mateminco MT04 XHP50 nw,Sofirn If-25A cw,Sofirn SCO PRO nw

Headlamp-Thrunite TH30 nw

Andrew2007
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Yes, obviously the xpl’s need to be connected in parallel. Smile

giorgoskok
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Hello everyone .
Can anyone help me get this driver zener modded ?

I mean , what R2 , Rd (resistor in current diode space) and zener should i order , and also , is an already modified firmware available (with the right lvp) ?
I want a simple firmware , 3-5 modes , nothing more .

Tom E
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The driver this thread is based on went through many revs - not even sure what the latest looks like.

This is a similar driver with a zener mod. Notice the 200 ohm resistor in place of the D1, and the zener in it's proper pad, to the right of the MCU. I used this in a XHP70 mod to a Roche LS01.

 

giorgoskok
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Some members here told me to use R1 19.1k , R2 2.2k , 200ohm resistor on the place of D1 , and a zener .

What firmware could i use ?

edit : i use v044 boards

Tom E
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That's about the proper ratio, as long as the ratio of R1:R2 is bout the same as 36K:4.7K, all depends what resistor values you have or can get. If you stay with these ratios, you should be able to use standard 13A firmware with LVP protection, because that ratio specifically match's well for 2 cells in series.

Oopsie! Forgot, a "2000" labeled resistor is actually 200 ohms,

giorgoskok
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thank you very much Tom for your help!!

I have already the resistors , but i can’t find a source for the zener diodes .

Which firmware should i use exactly?

Edit : Any other zener except BZX384-B4V3,115 ?

Tom E
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Ahhh, for firmware, I haven't been doing much with 13A's as of late. I'm at work, so don't have access to all my firmware verisons. I got my own spins on 13A, 25, and 85 firmware, but it's all based on STAR pretty much, so I'd looke at the STAR versions, but like I said, bout anything would do.

This is the standard zener we use:

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_104&product_id=316

Richard probably buys them at Mouser, think I also did recently. I think MtnE and Mouser are ruled out for you cause of shipping costs, etc.

giorgoskok
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Mtn has lower shipping Silly

Thanks for your help

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Almost any firmware should work, but you’ll still need to calibrate the voltage yourself. And from what I hear, LVP may be a bit tricky on this setup. There are reports of voltage sag so severe that turbo mode triggers LVP even on full cells.

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Tk what firmware should i use?
Starry-offtime?

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Use whichever one has an interface you like. Smile

I may be a little biased about which specific project. However, it probably depends on what kind of light you’re using and what you want to do with it. For example, blf-a6 is nice for EDC lights but not as nice on throwers, because it starts on low. Meanwhile, STAR_off_time has an option to start on high instead, so it might be better for throwers. Both offer mode memory if you want it.

degarb
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Okay. . I would like one without the fet or anything above 380 ma. . The settings need be 100% of one amc7135 (not 2 or more) , 75%,50%,25%,10%,5% pwm based on max 380ma. Is this possible? . Or how much is possible?

Most drivers are wow factor designed, and such are lacking for usefulness and efficient 10 plus hour runtime from a single 18650.

Runtime=Usefulness

RMM
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degarb wrote:
Okay. . I would like one without the fet or anything above 380 ma. . The settings need be 100% of one amc7135 (not 2 or more) , 75%,50%,25%,10%,5% pwm based on max 380ma. Is this possible? . Or how much is possible? Most drivers are wow factor designed, and such are lacking for usefulness and efficient 10 plus hour runtime from a single 18650.

Why not just use an ak-47-a and remove some chips?  Cheaper and easier.  

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Tom E
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degarb wrote:
Okay. . I would like one without the fet or anything above 380 ma. . The settings need be 100% of one amc7135 (not 2 or more) , 75%,50%,25%,10%,5% pwm based on max 380ma. Is this possible? . Or how much is possible? Most drivers are wow factor designed, and such are lacking for usefulness and efficient 10 plus hour runtime from a single 18650.

Of course it's possible, pretty simple for implementing in any FET+1 firmware version out there. Of course a fully populated FET+1 driver can do all that, plus have a turbo mode using a FET and there's no difference whatsoever in runtime per mode, for the modes you specified. You would just get the best of both worlds - that's why the FET+1 drivers were created to begin with - great run times on the low modes using just the 7135, super output when using the FET.

RMM
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Tom, degarb is an oddity.  He has e-mailed me several times and he has no interest in anything more than the power stated, period. 

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giorgoskok
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Easiest solution is what Richard suggested , get an ak-47 and leave only one 7135 .

Other solution , take a fet+1 driver , remove fet , modify firmware .

Tom E
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RMM wrote:

Tom, degarb is an oddity.  He has e-mailed me several times and he has no interest in anything more than the power stated, period. 

Ahh, not a problem. Posting on this thread I would assume he wanted to buy one of these boards or already had one. Lots of options...

Anyway, good to see you posting smile

 

On a 3500 mAh cell on a 7135 you would get about 10 hours of ~150 lumens or so, on a typical XM-L2 or XPL. Think I saw ~180 lumens on triple or quad LED setups.

MILSPEC
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Does anybody know which Fet+1×7135 driver on Oshpark is the “up to date” variant? There are so many revisions and I am a bit confused which one to order.

I am looking for a 17mm Fet+1 driver for 1S use that works with some of the firmware in Toykeeper’s repository.

Thank you!

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Which firmware are you wanting to use?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

MILSPEC
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I am flexible on the firmware. Guess any FW with 2 channels/pins and compatibility with this driver would be fine? I will only have 1 emitter and need very few modes. The Attiny13 and 25 are here with me, can use either.

edit:
This is a useful thread but I don’t think it is up to date? http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29562

RMM
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Tom E wrote:

RMM wrote:

Tom, degarb is an oddity.  He has e-mailed me several times and he has no interest in anything more than the power stated, period. 

Ahh, not a problem. Posting on this thread I would assume he wanted to buy one of these boards or already had one. Lots of options...

Anyway, good to see you posting smile

 

On a 3500 mAh cell on a 7135 you would get about 10 hours of ~150 lumens or so, on a typical XM-L2 or XPL. Think I saw ~180 lumens on triple or quad LED setups.

I recommended the Nanjg because it can be had pre-assembled for less than the parts alone would cost you to build one up in smaller quantities and if all you want is a single 7135, then there is no reason really to go through the trouble of building one.  

 

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chouster
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Also, why would you want a 2 channel firmware/driver if you’re using one emitter at maximum 380mA current. Makes no sense.

EDIT: If you’d like to build your own driver, than the HQ4S from HarleQuin is a very nice one. There’s also a dual channel version of it, if you’d insist on that for what reason whatsoever.

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MILSPEC wrote:
I am flexible on the firmware. Guess any FW with 2 channels/pins and compatibility with this driver would be fine? I will only have 1 emitter and need very few modes. The Attiny13 and 25 are here with me, can use either.

I would say try one of TexasAce’s Avenger driver boards. They are the most “up to date”. They are triple-channel, but could be used as dual channel by just leaving the extra parts off and a couple minor adjustments to the firmware.

They don’t work with all firmwares, but TK’s Bistro and TomE’s Narsil work with it.

Otherwise I think all of the more recent wight boards are mostly the same, just with minor tweaks. Just go with the highest version number. You can click on one of wights boards in oshpark, and use that to see all of the ones (and most recent ones) that he has posted.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Thank you, pilotdog!

Will compare TexasAce’s Avenger driver and wight’s boards and pick the easiest one to assemble/reflow/with the fewest parts.

pilotdog68
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Fewest parts/easiest to reflow will definitely not be the Avenger. It has extra little parts that give extra stability.

wight’s boards or my own DoubleDown would be the easiest. Either will work fine with an Attiny13a, but you really want the Avenger if you are using the Attiny25

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
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Take a look at my edit above… I’d recommend HQ4S and BLF-A6 firmware in single channel config with Battcheck _VpT…

pilotdog68
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chouster wrote:
Take a look at my edit above…

two different people asking questions in the thread. I’m replying to MILSPEC, who does want the FET

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

chouster
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Sorry, PD and MILSPEC. Totally mixed things up… Facepalm So my comments were adressed to degarb, I guess. Again sorry.

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I have this driver A17DD-L FET+1 Driver from banggood paired with xml2 u3 and with Keeppower 18650 3500mAh, Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mA.

With fully charged keeppower battery on tail cap I measured only 3.5A, and with panasonic only 3A in turbo mode.

Is this normal, whether it is worth to change battery to get more amps?

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