D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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pilotdog68
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nice work Thumbs Up

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

ZozzV6
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I changed the tailcap lighting in my S2+ shorty and the switch boot. Earlier it has clear switch boot and green leds under it. Now it has a light blue rubber boot from Simon’s aliexpress shop and white leds under it on PD68 V5.1 Lighted tail switch board. Now it has the nice light blue color what I wanted.

Bourbon Guy
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Beautiful. I’ve found a boot in the same color as the leds I’m using to be the best combination

ZozzV6
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The fun thing with this blue boot is that you give it plenty light it will glow in the dark in green color Smile but with small amount of white light under it I get this. Only a small greenish color in center but you can not see it on this pic.

nofear87
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Nicolicous wrote:

Just mod two Thorfire TG06 and this is my current favorite AA size light.

no bleeder needed Big Smile

I did not get the TG06 Tailcap working without a bleeder…what could be the problem? Tailcap works well in some other lights. Where I have to add the bleeder on the TG06 driver? Thanks!

emarkd
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I keep seeing folks posting that they’re building some of these without bleeder resistors. I don’t know how they’re doing it. I haven’t gotten one working without a bleeder yet. Every single one I do winds up with a bleeder in order to get the driver/firmware to act right.

But I haven’t done one of those Thorfires though, so I can’t help specifically with that.

PS: Those blended colors look great in there. I really should branch out and stop doing all the same colors Smile

nofear87
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Yes. The colors looks damn good in this combination. Where did you place the bleeder and which value did you choose?

Bourbon Guy
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nofear87 wrote:
I did not get the TG06 Tailcap working without a bleeder…what could be the problem? Tailcap works well in some other lights. Where I have to add the bleeder on the TG06 driver? Thanks!

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1001502#comment-1001502

Post 1366.

EDIT: That’s an 0805 resistor.

nofear87
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Bourbon Guy wrote:
nofear87 wrote:
I did not get the TG06 Tailcap working without a bleeder…what could be the problem? Tailcap works well in some other lights. Where I have to add the bleeder on the TG06 driver? Thanks!

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1001502#comment-1001502

Post 1366.

EDIT: That’s an 0805 resistor.

Thanks! Did you test it without a bleeder first?

WillyD
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Are these 0805 size? I ordered a bunch of leds from ebay, and they seem awfully small.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272173424833?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=57...

I placed one right above the led on a prebuilt illuminated tailcap I had so you can see just how small these suckers are. They just barely span over to each pad.

pilotdog68
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Those look more like 0603

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

WillyD
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Those look more like 0603

Ok, thanks for verifying. I was thinking there was no way I was going to be able to work with these. I mean the slightest static or movement from my fingers makes it go shooting across the table never to be seen again. This sucks…waited several weeks to get those so I could finish my giveaway build. I’ll try ordering from a trusted vendor this time.

Bourbon Guy
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nofear87 wrote:

Thanks! Did you test it without a bleeder first?

If I did I don’t remember doing so.

Dusty
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Bourbon Guy wrote:
nofear87 wrote:

Thanks! Did you test it without a bleeder first?

If I did I don’t remember doing so.

This discussion made me check my TG06. I did not install a bleeder, and it works fine. The tail PCB is one of the original 2 led, 2 resistor models. 2 Green Led’s, 1 (4.9Kohm resistor), and a Home Depot plastic washer Wink Don’t know how to check for drain, but it is barely visible in daylight.

Bug

WillyD
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Those look more like 0603

The switch I posted in my pic a few posts above is from a BLF X6. Can you verify the LED in that is 0805 size? I had contacted the vendor on ebay and they stated they didn’t carry anything in the 0603 size. They were only .99 for 100, so I’m not too concerned, but I don’t want them to send me the same things again.

Dusty
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WillyD wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
Those look more like 0603

The switch I posted in my pic a few posts above is from a BLF X6. Can you verify the LED in that is 0805 size? I had contacted the vendor on ebay and they stated they didn’t carry anything in the 0603 size. They were only .99 for 100, so I’m not too concerned, but I don’t want them to send me the same things again.

I think you got the correct size. The resistor next to the led in your picture is an 0805. My astrolux SC has the same size led that’s in your picture. I think they may be 1206. I was able to use an 0805 on the other side of the board though, with a little work. I couldn’t imagine trying to solder a 0603.

Bug

emarkd
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I concur with Dusty. I switched around some color/resistor values on my “stock” BLF X5/X6 lighted tailcaps and Manker definitely used something larger than 0805 originally. I put some 0805 emitters on my boards too, because its all I had. It can be done. Just remove that bigger emitter, glob up more solder than you’d normally use on the pads, and kinda “stretch” it over to contact the smaller 0805 LED. It’ll work fine, and you can’t tell it at all once its reassembled.

WillyD
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Ok, thanks for verifying guys. Now that I look at it, I can see the silkscreen print around the resistor is smaller than the one around the led. Well dang, I’m glad I bought these in bulk ‘cause I can see myself losing half of them.

pilotdog68
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emarkd wrote:
Manker definitely used something larger than 0805 originally.

I didn’t know that, thanks

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Texas_Ace
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The real fun part is when you start playing with 0603 and 0402 components.

pilotdog68
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I don’t think I’ll ever go for 0402, but I do have a bunch of 0603 LEDs sitting around. The worst part is figuring out polarity on them.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Texas_Ace
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Mine have an arrow on one side. I simply tap the ends with my multimeter on diode test mode and see which way they light up, then I know that the arrow means ground/positive.

nofear87
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I have some questions regarding the bleeder.

1. Does a bleeder drain the batterie when there is not ltc?
2. Is a higher bleeder value better for batterie lifetime or is the lifetime only determined by ltc led current?
3. how can I measure the current drain?

Thank you!

gchart
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I’ll take a stab at answering, but I could be wrong:

1. No, because a normal tailcap completely breaks the path of electricity flow (using an itc creates a path around the switch)

2. I think this should be negligible, but if you can get away with a higher resistance (say, 1K ohm) that might be better

3. Check to see if your DMM has a mAh setting. If so, remove your tailcap and jumper with a wire and your DMM leads between your flashlight body and tailcap. That’s how I’ve done it at least.

nofear87
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gchart wrote:
I’ll take a stab at answering, but I could be wrong:

1. No, because a normal tailcap completely breaks the path of electricity flow (using an itc creates a path around the switch)

2. I think this should be negligible, but if you can get away with a higher resistance (say, 1K ohm) that might be better

3. Check to see if your DMM has a mAh setting. If so, remove your tailcap and jumper with a wire and your DMM leads between your flashlight body and tailcap. That’s how I’ve done it at least.

Thank you!

emarkd
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That’s basically all correct. The bleeder doesn’t affect standby drain but is a source of inefficiency when the main emitter is on. You can calculate the loss – V=IR. It’ll be negligible at higher current draw but could make moonlight and other low modes half as efficient or even worse. So yes, use the highest value bleeder you can.

WillyD
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I finally have most of my parts in. Going to first try using the Rev5 base with a Rev5.2 top. If I am going to do 2 different colors then I take it the best config would be 1 color for each channel. I’d like to try using pots, so would it work best for each channel to have its own pot? If that is the case, then I would need to bridge ‘b’ on the top board. Obviously, connect pos and neg on top and bottom. Other than adding the pots to the bottom board, is there anything else I need to cut or bridge for this configuration? Doesn’t seem like it, but checking anyway. Thanks.

WillyD
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First try a success. Can’t tell from the pic, but it has both blue and purple. I used 2 pots which I find very easy to work with. You may notice the pos and neg test leads are reversed. This is because I accidentally reversed the leds. I do have one issue. It’s pretty bright when connected directly to the battery, but once placed in the light the leds dim significantly. The light and modes all seem to work without issue. Does this indicate the need for a bleeder on the driver? Thanks.

vwpieces
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Nice, good work.
What driver we are you using?

WillyD
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I tried it on a stock 105c and whatever driver is in the Kronos X6…ATTiny25 FET maybe? Same results on both. The tailcap lights work, but they are just much dimmer.

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