I know, Iām sick.
But my life constantly reinforces it. Just this morning at 7AM my wife came back into the house to tell me that her tire light came on her brand new car came on. Of course I had a compressor just 10 feet away, already fully charged. After I topped off her tire, it was down 1 1/2 pounds, she told me it would be nice if she had a digital tire gauge too.
I pulled one from āstockā and gave it to her.
Iād advise against the āGlacier Bayā faucets at any price unless youāre selling the house. I installed a lot of them (all types) in rentals and none lasted more than 2 years before they had to be replaced with many going bad in every way possible within 6-8 months, some even sooner :rage: That customer of mine lost his butt trying to save money and now he uses only good stuff like I recommended from the start. It was a good economy brand at the start but went downhill quickly right after that- where have we seen that happen before?
negative, thats the new one. The one thats on clearance has a 16g finish nailer the new one has a 18g nailer. so be on the lookout for a 16g mixed in with the 18gās
You are soooooo right.
I have some rental properties and I have always used the Delta ājoystickā faucets. They are well made, easy to repair and easy to clean.
I used to be able to buy them new, but as far as I know they are no longer available, besides I am still able to get used ones for free from the ReStore. Contractors and home owners donate the older oval drop in sinks with them when the āupgradeā
Nobody buys them, so at the end they give them away. I remove the faucets and throw away the sinks.
I was in Rhode Island again over the weekend. I got a chance to stop in 4 different HDās. I found one more of the power packs at $2.40, and another box of Gorilla
Nuts. Only reason they were on the shelf is that they were not were they were supposed to be. The sticker says $9.06, but something else is in their place, the one box of Gorilla Nuts were above. Can you spot them?
I found some other stuff for a penny, but my best find was the TP-Link Router for $13.02
Sorry about the false alarm earlier when I posted this.
It seems that was the ONLY store around here that had them on clearance. All other stores are still $59.95
However, I found 1 store in RI that had them reduced further to $13.02
Earlier I had purchased 2 at $25.04. I used 1 in a rental and the other I sold to a friend.
Well I took router up to customer service, got refunded for the 2 I had already bought (total $50.08), then bought all 3 back for $39.12.
(I am up $11 and get the 3rd router for free, I told the friend of our good fortune)
Also previously I had purchased 2 Wink Hubs. Regularly the were $69.97. I got one at $39.97, then another at $37.00. Since then all stores I have been in were at one of those 2 prices.
However, in that same store in RI I saw this.
NOT $39.97 nor $37.00, but $53.06. From the date I thought it might have a chance to be at the ā3ā price. So I took it up and it scanned for $18.03
So I brought that one up to customer service, got refunded $76.97, then bought back all 3 for 54.09
I am up $22 dollars and I get the 3rd hub for free.
Now some fails.
I could find the 2 in 1 First Alert alarms that ChadB scored for a penny everywhere, but they scan for $37.97. Has the same UPC code too.
Recently both black and white power 6 outlet power strips have been clearanced. All the stores had them for $3.03, then they were gone, replaced by another similar model.
Here is a display of āBelkinā power strips, but the actual power strips are Defiant. I thought I had found a whole display of penny power strips, but no. They scanned for $13.97
Here is another mistake by Home Depot. I found this mistake in 2 of the 4 stores.
Right now, the Power Shot electric stapler is on clearance for $7.53
Here is a display that has a yellow price sticker underneath an Arrow electric stapler at $7.53. To the left are the Power Shots marked at $29.97
I took one of each up to scan, and the Power Shot scans at $7.53 just like all other stores and the Arrow scans at $29.97
Itās not just a matter of the label being in the wrong place. The label actually is printed for the Arrow.
Too bad I donāt live nearby, those Power Shots could very well survive to a penny.
Every store I was in had the NetGear routers for $12.03.
And I didnāt realize until very recently that most of the Lithium Ion tool packs can be used as USB power packs with an adapter. I recently got the one from Ridgid, is now $16, and here is one for Makita, also $16
2 USB ports are under that black rubber flap.
Why use one of these?
Because why would you want to pay for the cells if you already have a drill pack. Also, super fast charging with the charger AND incredible capacity.
A 4.0AH pack would be rated at 20,000 mAh
Most power banks have 1 or more cells in parallel and their voltage has to be boosted to the 5V output that is required. If there were 5 cells in a power bank, each having a capacity of 2000mAh, they would rate the power bank at the sum total of the capacities of all the cells, 10,000 mAh.
Power banks arenāt usually made this way, but if they used those same 5 cells in series and bucked the voltage down to 5V, they would still call it a 10,000 mAh power bank.
18V Ridgid, Milwaukee, Ryobi, etc power tool batteries use 5 cells in series, 21V fully charged. So a 4Ah, 18V battery would have 10 2000mAh cells in a 5S2P configuration.
Hence the 20,000 mAh rating.
DCH those fire alarms went on clearance a while back, must be a new one out. Iām not sure why the UPC is the same? But they have the same ones on the shelfā¦ These were a little dusty and the plastic cracked and I recalled seeing them a while back, so I scanned them and they were a penny.
Those routers are 3 price here as well, I donāt need any but if they hit a penny I do. There is also 2 wifi range extenders at the 3 price and should penny out when the routers do, I will take a pic of them tomorrow.
Iām also still looking for a compressor, with such a subtle difference I should be able to find one mixed in. I saw a few at the beginning and they were sold or āhiddenā at the 4 price.
I look in the battery recycling boxes everytime Iām in HD and grab the packs with lithium ionās in them, 95% of the packs I find are ryobi packs. Which is not a bad thing, typically they have samsungs or lg 18650ās and only 1 cell is usually bad.
Have you ever tried to replace just the bad cell? I was hoping to find some dewalt batteries because thatās the tools I use. I donāt own any ryobiās or I would fix one of those. If I can find a dewalt pack I was going to attempt to fix it.
The black and decker car battery booster has a 2A USB out but its simply a linear USB device, the 2000mAh batteries will charge my phone once despite its 6 battery setup, i found that very annoying, should be able to charge it 4-5 times.
I think I have that same B&D Battery Booster. When I used it to charge my phone from about 10, it charges it up to 100. But after just 1 charge the LED indicator light goes from Blue thru Yellow to Red. That means it is time to recharge. That in and of itself is disturbing.
But tonight I ran a fully charged Booster thru a resistive load and measured and timed the results. It ran for 3 hours 27 minutes before shutting down. The current wavered around 1.78A and the during the discharge the output voltage was about 4.78V. So during the test the output Watt Hours was
3.5H x 1.78A x 4.78V = 29.78WH
Inside there are 6 Samsung 20Qās in series, and the WH rating of those 6 cells would be 3.6V x 6 cells x 2AH/cell = 43.2 AH
So about 70% efficient.
Buck converters are usually more efficient that boost converters, no?
Very interesting, so that means the indicator lights are wrong, i donāt have one of those current devices but i did go by the lights and recharge time vs current in and came to the conclusion that it was a linear driver instead of a buck driver.
So that means when i think iām storing it at 40-50% charge (5V USB pulling out 1200mAh) i am really storing it at close to 70%?
I guess the 2 hours to gain less then 1/3 charge means the CV phase is very slow.
Thanks for the info, and I need to completely rethink its discharge level before storage.
Another possibility is that full charge is not 4.2V, if they really thought it through they would charge to 4Vish since most people would store it ready to use. Does that make sense with how much juice you pulled out of it though?
Maybe the Red indicator light means it is time the recharge if you intend to use it to boost your car
The thing for me to do now is take one apart, charge it fully and check the voltage across each cell.
Perhaps as you mentioned, full charge isnāt 4.2V across each cell, but something lower.
Also I would like to see what the voltage across each cell is when the indicator light first turns red.