D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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testedandbaked
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Unfortunately, we can rule this one out :(. I’m using a nice X7R cap supplied by Richard. Timings do not shift at all when there is no lighted tailcap.

Texas_Ace
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testedandbaked wrote:
Unfortunately, we can rule this one out :(. I’m using a nice X7R cap supplied by Richard. Timings do not shift at all when there is no lighted tailcap.

Then the bleeder and/or the tailcap current is not correct. With those properly set I do not notice any difference. If they are not right then it will effect things for sure.

I have found 560ohm bleeders to be the most relible myself as long as the tailcap current is kept below ~.3ma, I generally go for about .1ma

emarkd
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Yeah I can report the same using 470 ohm bleeders (cause that’s what came in my kit). Timings do shorten, but its not so much that I even notice it during normal usage. I have to be paying attention to notice the change.

emarkd
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Finally, I successfully illuminated a McClicky switch. I posted about modding one a page or two ago but was never able to make it work properly in that light. The driver just didn’t “bleed” enough and nothing I could do made it happy.

Fast forward a week and a new host shows up. This one went much more smoothly. I already had a modded McClicky and only had to do a small amount of filing and grinding to make it fit this host. I swapped the emitters on the board, screwed it in, and added a bleeder to the 105C driver that came in this guy. No problem. It’ll eventually get a new driver when I decide how I want to build this thing, but this works for now.

So here it is, a copper Okluma TinyDC with a glowing orange tailcap:

Nicolicous
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has anyone manage to get the illuminate taillight to work on forward switch?

Nico -.-

emarkd
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Nicolicous wrote:
has anyone manage to get the illuminate taillight to work on forward switch?

I did, literally the comment above yours.

vinte77
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Anyone add a bleeder resistor to a zener modded driver and get tail light switch working?

Nicolicous
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emarkd wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
has anyone manage to get the illuminate taillight to work on forward switch?

I did, literally the comment above yours.

oh Big Smile i never have McClicky.

im still having issues with other clickies. The taillight only switch on when the light is on Sad

Nico -.-

djozz
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Supfire S1 small 16340 tube light, fixed BLF-A6 driver with 460 Ohm bleeder, 219C R9050 SM353, switchboard with 50K pot under the spring, lighted ring with 3× 3.3 kOhm and 6x slow colour change 0805 rgb leds from ebay.

Fun is that the leds are not completely autonomous, they slightly influence each other’s timing and actions so that the cyclus becomes partly chaotic.

Texas_Ace
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Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?

djozz
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?

The leds were these (sorry for the dutch ebay link): http://stores.ebay.nl/ktelektronic/0805-blinkend-/_i.html?_fsub=13428809017
Tailcap current was about 1mA with the pot fully open.
chouster
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Very nice, djozz!

gchart
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Nicely done. Those slow changing ones are interesting looking, much better than the rapidly changing ones that someone else had tried.

Also, I haven’t yet put a bleeder on a BLF A6 driver. Do you have a picture of where you placed it?

vwpieces
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That is wild djozz
Love it.

djozz
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Thanks guys, it is way more bearable than the fast rgb leds that I tried before.

djozz wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?
The leds were these (sorry for the dutch ebay link): http://stores.ebay.nl/ktelektronic/0805-blinkend-/_i.html?_fsub=13428809017 Tailcap current was about 1mA with the pot fully open.

Here’s a USA seller with what looks like the same leds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-0805-SMD-Slow-7-Color-Changing-3-5-4-5V-20mA-RGB-LED-US-Seller-/262158976697

Texas_Ace
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djozz wrote:
Thanks guys, it is way more bearable than the fast rgb leds that I tried before.
djozz wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?
The leds were these (sorry for the dutch ebay link): http://stores.ebay.nl/ktelektronic/0805-blinkend-/_i.html?_fsub=13428809017 Tailcap current was about 1mA with the pot fully open.

Here’s a USA seller with what looks like the same leds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-0805-SMD-Slow-7-Color-Changing-3-5-4-5V-20mA-RGB-LED-US-Seller-/262158976697

Thanks, I think I will have to grab a set of those just for fun.

vinte77
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Is there any difference to apply a bleeder resistor to a zener modded driver?

emarkd
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Yeah thanks Djozz, ordered some myself. I’ve never tried any of them, at any speed, but your video is trippy. Looking forward to it.

Nicolicous
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nice one Djozz

I have both versions and i like both depending on my mood Silly

I tend to look at fast spin is when im in happy mood and slow fade when i want to chillax hahah

Nico -.-

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That is really awsome. I think I will buy some RGB an d some blinkie leds

hank
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Quote:
they use really bad OTC caps and this is quite common.

Is there a picture somewhere identifying which one that is?

Quote:
You can replace the cap with a good X7R cap and it will vastly improve things.

And where to get one of those?

Just trying to nail down the references.

emarkd
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djozz wrote:
Here’s a USA seller with what looks like the same leds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-0805-SMD-Slow-7-Color-Changing-3-5-4-5V-20mA-RGB-LED-US-Seller-/262158976697

Hey all, hoping to get some advice. I ordered some of the LEDs djozz linked above and a built a 19mm rev5.1 board with them, but it doesn’t work nearly as well as his does in the video. I first built it using a single 22kohm resistor and it was basically a red flashing board, with the colored emitters just dark the rest of the sequence. So I figured maybe it was a power/voltage issue not allowing certain colors to illuminate, so I lowered my resistor to the same 3.3kohm value djozz said he used above, with the biggest difference being that my board only uses 1 for all 6 emitters; its not the 3-channel board. Now my tail has roughly 3 colors, red > green > blue, with some flashing and pulsing in between (maybe there’s supposed to be other colors in there? it almost looks yellowish sometimes.), but after a cycle or two, just a couple of minutes, the blue and green stop working too and I’m back to a board that pretty much just pulses red. Its really not a bad look, the slowly pulsing, undulating red, but its not what I was expecting. If I use turn on the light, cutting power to the tail, it starts over again with multiple colors, but every time, after just a few minutes of working, its down to just red.

Any thoughts? Should I try even less resistance since all 6 are pulling through the 1 resistor? I don’t really want it brighter, but I may have to. Are these just not as good as his original emitters?

Texas_Ace
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What is the tailcap current right now?

djozz
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As menrioned in my post above I noticed the influence that leds have on each other too, blue is getting scarce if you let it run for a while. My circuit at least has the 3.3kOhm before 2 of the leds parallel, and that 3 times. My interpretation is that the leds have the most influence on the other led directly parallel and less on the other 4 leds. You can also try a separate resistor before each individual led, that may cause the least influence, or one resistor before all 6leds parallel, in which case they all feel each other. Is that last the case in your build?

emarkd
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Yes right now its just got 1 3.3K resistor with all 6 LEDs in parallel afterwards. But the board does have pads for individual resistors. I’ll try rewiring it with separate resistors to see what effect it has.

My tailcap reads 0.64mA at first “connection”, but it fluctuates between 0.4-0.8 as it runs through its cycles.

gchart
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Could probably also try a lower resistence (for a single resistor setup), right? djozz is using 3× 3.3K vs 1× 3.3K. I imagine that’d make a big difference.

Texas_Ace
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djozz said he was getting around 1ma. So I agree, I would try a lower resistance to start out with. Plus since things improved with 1ma, it might keep improving with lower resistance.

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So my next iteration will be a (6.8 Ohm) resistor before each led and see if that will be interesting or boring. Perhaps I hit the most interesting circuitry by accident.

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So I rebuilt it using an individual resistor for each led, plus I lowered the value quite a bit too – 1.1k 1.5k per. I know, you should only change one thing at a time when testing but I didn’t have much time. The result is a tailcap that works as expected, shows all colors for at least the last 10 minutes that’s it’s been going, and is WAAAYY too bright. Now it’s pulling between 2.7 and 3.1 mA. So I’ll probably dial a bit more resistance into it when I get a chance, but this is an improvement for now. Thanks all.

EDIT: And I’ve lost the otc on the driver – no long-pressing and next mode memory. Definitely too much current

emarkd
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Alright, so final update on my tailcap for the time being: First a correction — I’ve got 1.5kohm resistors on each of the 6 LEDs, not 1.1kohm. Sorry. I left those alone. Since the board also has a single parallel resistor that effects all the LEDs, I started adding resistance to that pad and testing. 500 ohms didn’t help, neither did 1kohm. 1.5kohm did the trick though – gained me back proper mode switching and the tail LEDs rotated well, at least for a little while. After a few cycles though, the blue started dropping out again. Not sure why, but it seemed like a bit more current/voltage would be required. I didn’t have a good choice of resistors between 1 and 1.5kohm, so I pulled the head apart and lowered the bleeder from 560ohm to 330. That did the trick. Mode switching and the tailcap work as expected, with the small exception of some occasional random “flickering” in the tail as it changes colors. Tailcap draw fluctuates from 0.85ma to ~1.1ma, so I’d say the 1ma target on these LEDs is about right. Definitely not my most efficient tailcap, but its fun.

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