I received the two Lumintop 16340 batteries purchased from AliExpress as well a couple of days ago. Will pop them in my Liitokala Lii-500 charger to check capacity.
Thatās great.
When you pop them into your M3, do you visually see a difference in light output between high and turbo?
Okay, so i did a NOR test on my Lii-500 with the 4 PKcells.
Theyāre all around 700mAh, may improve a little because they were brand new.
The internal resistance guestimate of the Lii-500 are inconsistent wild guesses, so it doesnāt mean too much, but it seems these PKcells are a little better in that regard than Sanyo 14500.
I think these PKcells are similar in performance to their 14500 cells.
My M3 draws 2.28 A on āturboā (according to my UNI-T clamp meter) with a freshly charged PKcell,
with a āhalf fullā cell (3.6 Volts without load) itās 2.24 A.
with a 3.5 Volts (without load) cell itās 2.05 A on the clamp meter.
So this is where it apparently starts to suffer from the sag too much.
I will calculate the internal resistance now, iāll get back to you with that.
Just remembered the Windyfire brand market its cells by themselves: http://www.windyfire.com/windyfire-imr-16340-600mah-3a-button-2pcs.html
http://www.windyfire.com/windyfire-imr-16340-600mah-37v-3a.html -> In the past you had to ask for a cheap shipping quote. They may still do it for those of you outside of the countries listed in the above link.
Cheers
And the plot thickens
Thanks for the test Jerommel and the heads up on their site Barkuti!
Letās see if the PkCell and the Lumintop worth a try. It they are nice, why not?
If they are not, Windyfire may be an optionā¦or the Trustfire IMRā¦or the AWT IMRā¦or the On The Road :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
Okay, i calculated the internal resistance of one of my PKcells, i think i did it right.
The Voltage of the cell was 3.5 V without load.
I put on a load with a 1.35 Ī© resistor, giving a Voltage of 3.2 Volts over the resistor, I=U:R so the current was 3.2 V : 1.35 Ī© = 2.37 A
Now i can calculate the total resistance. R=U:I so R = 3.5 V : 2.37 A = 1.47 Ī©
Subtract the 1.35 Ī© from that, so 1.47 - 1.35 = 0.12 Ohm or 120mĪ©
When I (current) is 2.3 A (M3 turbo mode) P (power) wasted as heat in the battery is P=IĀ²ĆR ā> IĀ² = 5.29 ā> 5.29 Ć 0.12 Ī© = 0.63 Watt heating up the battery, which is nothing to worry about i.m.o.
Anyway, with Ri=120mĪ© this is not a high drain cell at allā¦
PS: The numbers could be off by 15% (or something) due to my equipment.
Unfortunately the batteries got to me first from AliExpress, even though I ordered the OTR M3 from GearBest at least a good few days before the batteries. Hopefully the M3 will turn up next week.
I know nothing about numbers ( :person_facepalming: ) but from your measurements it seems that for lights like the OTR M3, or an Olight S1R, it wouldnāt be a good battery mainly specially to use the brightest levels, right?
Also, theoretically, it would perform worst than - examples - the AWT IMR , the Windyfire IMR, and the Trustfire IMR, (all tested by HKJ), am I correct?
Thanks again for your work and results on this
It will be okay up to 1.5 Amperes or something.
With a linear driver thatās approximately 6 Watts, which is usually around 650 Lumen from an XM-L2 (correct me if iām wrong, anybody)
Also, theoretically, it would perform worst than - examples - the AWT IMR , the Windyfire IMR, and the Trustfire IMR, (all tested by HKJ), am I correct?
Yes, probably.
Thanks again for your work and results on this
I had to know myself too.
I guess we should wait for a next generation 16340, similar to the Aspire 18350.
Probably just a matter of time.
It will be okay up to 1.5 Amperes or something.
With a linear driver thatās approximately 6 Watts, which is usually around 650 Lumen from an XM-L2 (correct me if iām wrong, anybody)
[ā¦]
Thanks again for your work and results on thisI had to know myself too.
I guess we should wait for a next generation 16340, similar to the Aspire 18350.
Probably just a matter of time.
Thanks again for the explanation Jerommel! :+1:
If I understood correctly, they will run āwellā except in the highest modes (that are above 600lm in the lights I mentioned)!
Hum, getting a āAspire IMR 16340ā would be pretty nice :sunglasses:
I like small lights (16340 sized), and I donāt have more because I want to have them with decent batteries and thatās being hard to get (maybe Iām too picky about that, I admit)!
BTW, another confirmation that the OTR battery is nice was made by djozz some time ago, here: What did you mod today? - #1213 by djozz
I guess the OTR cell has to be nice when they sell it with a 900 Lumen light.
I got a comment on my Ri test in another thread:
ir goes up as cell is discharged.
I did not know this, so i will repeat the test at 4.0 Volts and on 3.7 Volts (without load) and see what it does.
Yes, the IR is supposed to be measured on a fully charged cell.
Sorry fellows but, after observing lots of li-ion cell discharge curves:
- When a cell is fully or nearly fully charged and/or nearly discharged the discharge curve slope is higher. Measuring internal resistance when cells are close to full or empty is just wrong.
- When a cell is discharged it heats up proportionally to the square of the current flow. This usually means the cell's internal resistance diminishes a little bit.
- In every other aspect, li-ion cells' internal resistance is fairly constant.
Cheers :-)
Measuring internal resistance when cells are close to full or empty is just wrong
Hmmā¦ from the ownerās manual of my Opus charger:
Only fully charged batteries should be tested for internal resistance
I think that however you decide to test, the key is to be consistent and measure all your cells at the same charge/voltage level so that you have apples to apples comparison.
I would say itās best to measure Ri at the average Voltage, which is 3.7 Volts (without load).
This is in the middle of the range the battery is used in most of the times.
If you test internal resistance to find out the maximum possible output with full batteries in a hotrod light, you should naturally do it with full batteries. On some lipos, the Ri decreases significantly when the battery is discharged and heats up.
Well, since this thread is more or less about the OTR M3, which (probably) has a linear CC driver with maximum current of 2.3 Amperes on āturboā, it should actually first be established how much voltage it needs to push 2.3 Amperes through the XM-L2.
Iām not even sure how much voltage this particular generation of XM-L2 needs to draw 2.3 Amperes.
what are the lumen levels and mode sequence of each light:
Jaxmnve M3
OTR M3
Do both lights have built in over discharge protection, (which means you do not need to use protected cells)
Does anyone have beam shots comparing the Cool White and Neutral white?
Since both are low CRI, the choice of Color temperature should be based on whether you plan to use the light when your brain is white balanced to a Cool White environment, or a Neutral white environment.
Neutral white that is Low CRI does NOT improve Color Rendering, because it outputs more Yellow and less Blue than cool white. However Neutral White Low CRI does NOT produce more Red.
since the OP is talking about wanting the most brightness, Imo he should buy Cool Whiteā¦ (Im not sure which one he ordered after all)
I am very happy with my Keepower IMR Unprotected cells.
But the discharge rate of the cell may not matter IF the M3 modes are Regulatedā¦ Are they?