though it is strange that only one LED is on. Is the breathing light pulsing (‘off’)?…
By the way, I suppose this light would be a perfect candidate for ‘BLF edition’. Add some cooling fins, maybe a little more metal on LED shelf, better driver… it would be a total killer.
Don’t get me wrong, it is still a great light. Assuming it isn’t faulty (I had bad luck ;/). However it surely can be better.
How is that even possible that 1 led is on when they are connected in a cluster of 6 LEDs?
Bad reflown so the – is connected to the DTP spot while the + is still connected?
Like the emitter is twisted or moved from the right spot?
Or to much solder paste and the led didn’t get the tap on the head to remove excess solder so DTP spot and – is connected?
The Mcpcb does have DTP right?
though it is strange that only one LED is on. Is the breathing light pulsing (‘off’)?…
By the way, I suppose this light would be a perfect candidate for ‘BLF edition’. Add some cooling fins, maybe a little more metal on LED shelf, better driver… it would be a total killer.
Don’t get me wrong, it is still a great light. Assuming it isn’t faulty (I had bad luck ;/). However it surely can be better.
Sitting here with my Nichia doing tail-stand on high mode… because I got nothing better to do… it’s been 30 mins and I don’t see any noticeable step down to my eyes. The head is warm but still able to hold with my hand. The body is also warm but nowhere near as the temperature on the head. No fans or anything to cool it down.
The light kept on running in high mode and just about 35mins I saw some “flickering” but that only dims a little bit…barely noticeable tbh. Then I got bored… I hit the button one more time and go turbo, the light heats up quickly and saw a noticeable step-down. After I shut it off, the light cools off fairly quickly and I can go turbo again. I am very happy with this product, the high mode runs pretty well and efficient with no cooling at all; out door will definitely do much better in the cool weather.
All 4 battery reads 3.92V when I put them into the charger. Pretty good after running on high + turbo mod for about 35-40 minutes.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
“Astrolux MF-01 active cooling mode” you mean a fan outside of the light ?
Anyway , not really fair comparing a 70$ and a 500$? flashlight.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
“Astrolux MF-01 active cooling mode” you mean a fan outside of the light ?
Anyway , not really fair comparing a 70$ and a 500$? flashlight.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long. :TIRED:
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
“Astrolux MF-01 active cooling mode” you mean a fan outside of the light ?
Anyway , not really fair comparing a 70$ and a 500$? flashlight.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
I think you are referring to thermal regulation... Active cooling does not exist in any of lights. From Maiden666's review http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55987 you could see X80 is above 50°C @1min which Astrolux MF-01 is not programmed to go beyond this mark. To be honest, 70°C in 2min is pretty insane.
According to that test above, it looks more like 2 minutes at 11,000 lumen.
I think what your talking about is active thermal regulation where the output can drop down when too hot and then rise back up when cooled down. I believe this is done through the use of a PID controller. These are very complicated and expensive to integrate into a flashlight. Only certain expensive lights have this feature. I think ToyKeeper and Tom E know more about these designs.
He is talking about cooling the flashlight with liquid hydrogen .
I think comparing this light to an acebeam x80 is ridiculous.You could buy 2 mf01’s, a BLF GT,and aemisar d4 to throw in your pocket for what it costs.
I think comparing this light to an acebeam x80 is ridiculous.You could buy 2 mf01’s, a BLF GT,and aemisar d4 to throw in your pocket for what it costs.
Once again.
Nobody is talking about pid regulation with turbo return after temp goes down.
One guy just supposed that there is no real thermal step down in MF01. I.e. step down time do not increase when heat spreading abilities increased (by any external factor).
I think comparing this light to an acebeam x80 is ridiculous.You could buy 2 mf01’s, a BLF GT,and aemisar d4 to throw in your pocket for what it costs.
Once again.
Nobody is talking about pid regulation with turbo return after temp goes down.
One guy just supposed that there is no real thermal step down in MF01. I.e. step down time do not increase when heat spreading abilities increased (by any external factor).
Yes Yes! You got me right! I’m trying to explain it!
I had to mention two things.
1. I dont own MF-01 and dont know how it works. Problems may be caused by bad thermistor or big thermal resistance between thermistor and host or etc.
2. When I left a link to video Damir`s profile didnt show any country.
I feel the MF01 does a good job protecting its light, it does drop the output depends on temperature. Remember, I was running on high mode for almost 35mins so the light is already hot. I go from high to turbo without cooling it down.
When the light steps down I can choose to turbo it back on. But the light would just step down again to protect it.
The temperature isn’t really that bad to my hand at all to be honest… I can still grab the light by the head on turbo.
And I just tested turbo mode on MF01, it runs about 1 minutes and 37 seconds before I see the step down.
And test my HaikeLite MT03 (over 9000 lumens) runs on turbo over 3 mins and I see no stepping down… the head is no where near the temperature of the MF01 on 1 minutes turbo… I guess Nichia is just a high heat light. Maybe XP-G3 has lower heat?
I feel the MF01 does a good job protecting its light, it does drop the output depends on temperature. Remember, I was running on high mode for almost 35mins so the light is already hot. I go from high to turbo without cooling it down.
When the light steps down I can choose to turbo it back on. But the light would just step down again to protect it.
The temperature isn’t really that bad to my hand at all to be honest… I can still grab the light by the head on turbo.
And I just tested turbo mode on MF01, it runs about 1 minutes and 37 seconds before I see the step down.
And test my HaikeLite MT03 (over 9000 lumens) runs on turbo over 3 mins and I see no stepping down… the head is no where near the temperature of the MF01 on 1 minutes turbo… I guess Nichia is just a high heat light. Maybe XP-G3 has lower heat?
Yes, it’s a fact, the XP-G3 gets less heated. But it is strange that the MF01 even with strong cooling reduces the brightness on the Turbo
V1 of the driver didn’t reduce for a few minutes (Nichia version, Samsung 30Q, used outside 8deg C/44F, ~20mph wind, light rain; the head was ~40 C / 104F). I stopped the test after 4 minutes, no brightness reduction.
V1 of the driver didn’t reduce for a few minutes (Nichia version, Samsung 30Q, used outside 8deg C/44F, ~20mph wind, light rain; the head was ~40 C / 104F). I stopped the test after 4 minutes, no brightness reduction.
My turbo test was done indoor with no wind and at room temperature, I wounder if I keep the light cool would make a difference on stepping downs. I guess I can throw my light in the freezer on turbo and see what happens lol
V1 of the driver didn’t reduce for a few minutes (Nichia version, Samsung 30Q, used outside 8deg C/44F, ~20mph wind, light rain; the head was ~40 C / 104F). I stopped the test after 4 minutes, no brightness reduction.
Wow! Cool!
However, it was a V1 driver. And the light suddenly turned on and stayed on (couldn’t turn off, one bank of LEDs on full power) shortly thereafter, so possibly it was just a symptom of faulty driver…
yuhsin91123 wrote:
So I did this…lol. it didn’t help with the step down timing, still got about the same run time of 1 minutes 30 seconds on turbo.
You have true moonlight mode !
though it is strange that only one LED is on. Is the breathing light pulsing (‘off’)?…
By the way, I suppose this light would be a perfect candidate for ‘BLF edition’. Add some cooling fins, maybe a little more metal on LED shelf, better driver… it would be a total killer.
Don’t get me wrong, it is still a great light. Assuming it isn’t faulty (I had bad luck ;/). However it surely can be better.
How is that even possible that 1 led is on when they are connected in a cluster of 6 LEDs?
Bad reflown so the – is connected to the DTP spot while the + is still connected?
Like the emitter is twisted or moved from the right spot?
Or to much solder paste and the led didn’t get the tap on the head to remove excess solder so DTP spot and – is connected?
The Mcpcb does have DTP right?
Do not worry, every bad luck comes to an end.
Well, I had a reply from BG 5 days ago:
I can’t see it in ‘my orders’ yet.
I also sent a replacement for the torn rubber button, the method of delivery Flat Express.
1 * Astrolux MF01 Swicth Cover
But keep in mind that he will not appear in the list of orders and you personal cabinet.
Sitting here with my Nichia doing tail-stand on high mode… because I got nothing better to do… it’s been 30 mins and I don’t see any noticeable step down to my eyes. The head is warm but still able to hold with my hand. The body is also warm but nowhere near as the temperature on the head. No fans or anything to cool it down.
The light kept on running in high mode and just about 35mins I saw some “flickering” but that only dims a little bit…barely noticeable tbh. Then I got bored… I hit the button one more time and go turbo, the light heats up quickly and saw a noticeable step-down. After I shut it off, the light cools off fairly quickly and I can go turbo again. I am very happy with this product, the high mode runs pretty well and efficient with no cooling at all; out door will definitely do much better in the cool weather.
All 4 battery reads 3.92V when I put them into the charger. Pretty good after running on high + turbo mod for about 35-40 minutes.
Astrolux MF01 even in the active cooling mode does not work in the turbo for more than 1 minute. AceBeam does not have such a problem, with strong active cooling, the turbo mode works long.
“Astrolux MF-01 active cooling mode” you mean a fan outside of the light ?
Anyway , not really fair comparing a 70$ and a 500$? flashlight.
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Cooling the head with liquid nitrogen!
Which AceBeam model are you referring to?
SUBSCRIBE
1theDeals.com / Facebook / Instagram / YouTube / Reddit
Not 500 $ and 299 $ – AceBeam X80
AceBeam X80 at least 3 minutes shines at 11000lmn
I think you are referring to thermal regulation... Active cooling does not exist in any of lights. From Maiden666's review http://budgetlightforum.com/node/55987 you could see X80 is above 50°C @1min which Astrolux MF-01 is not programmed to go beyond this mark. To be honest, 70°C in 2min is pretty insane.
SUBSCRIBE
1theDeals.com / Facebook / Instagram / YouTube / Reddit
He means external active cooling. Like fan or big water volume. That shows difference between real thermal regulation and programmed step-down.
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
Yes, yes, you’re right! I’m talking about this. They do not understand me …
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
He is talking about cooling the flashlight with liquid hydrogen .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
I think comparing this light to an acebeam x80 is ridiculous.You could buy 2 mf01’s, a BLF GT,and aemisar d4 to throw in your pocket for what it costs.
Once again.
Nobody is talking about pid regulation with turbo return after temp goes down.
One guy just supposed that there is no real thermal step down in MF01. I.e. step down time do not increase when heat spreading abilities increased (by any external factor).
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
Yes Yes! You got me right! I’m trying to explain it!
I had to mention two things.
1. I dont own MF-01 and dont know how it works. Problems may be caused by bad thermistor or big thermal resistance between thermistor and host or etc.
2. When I left a link to video Damir`s profile didnt show any country.
Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.
I feel the MF01 does a good job protecting its light, it does drop the output depends on temperature. Remember, I was running on high mode for almost 35mins so the light is already hot. I go from high to turbo without cooling it down.
When the light steps down I can choose to turbo it back on. But the light would just step down again to protect it.
The temperature isn’t really that bad to my hand at all to be honest… I can still grab the light by the head on turbo.
And I just tested turbo mode on MF01, it runs about 1 minutes and 37 seconds before I see the step down.
And test my HaikeLite MT03 (over 9000 lumens) runs on turbo over 3 mins and I see no stepping down… the head is no where near the temperature of the MF01 on 1 minutes turbo… I guess Nichia is just a high heat light. Maybe XP-G3 has lower heat?
Yes, it’s a fact, the XP-G3 gets less heated. But it is strange that the MF01 even with strong cooling reduces the brightness on the Turbo
V1 of the driver didn’t reduce for a few minutes (Nichia version, Samsung 30Q, used outside 8deg C/44F, ~20mph wind, light rain; the head was ~40 C / 104F). I stopped the test after 4 minutes, no brightness reduction.
Someone should teardown thw light to see if it has thermal sensor
Forgot my pen
Wow! Cool!
My turbo test was done indoor with no wind and at room temperature, I wounder if I keep the light cool would make a difference on stepping downs. I guess I can throw my light in the freezer on turbo and see what happens lol
So I did this…lol. it didn’t help with the step down timing, still got about the same run time of 1 minutes 30 seconds on turbo.
However, it was a V1 driver. And the light suddenly turned on and stayed on (couldn’t turn off, one bank of LEDs on full power) shortly thereafter, so possibly it was just a symptom of faulty driver…
Is your light from first or the second batch?
PS. Still no further info from BG – they gave me an order number for the MF-01 head but I can’t find it anywhere.
Pages