Well, my original NW UT01 has been working fine with AA NiMh, and the second light NW I ordered came and, happily, works perfectly with MiMH and unprotected 14500s! So, I’m feeling good. I’d order the CW version, except I don’t want to push my luck.
A few things about the second light: It had a lumintop warantee card, my first did not.
The emitter is a bit more greenish on the second NW than the first. I’ll see if it improves at all with a little more use. If not, I’ll probably swap the emitter with my first light. That, or find a suitable replacement.
Oh, also, the leads poking through the bottom of the PCB at the bottom of the head on the second light were trimmed better/closer than those on the first light.
Me too, light worked perfectly with both NiMh and 14500 for a few minutes and then presto……….won’t turn back on unless you loosen and tighten the tail cap as to break the circuit as Jerommel said or by banging the tailcap as suggested by Muto. Bloody nuisance
Second UT01 4000K NW arrived today.
No workie on my flat top NiMh in this one. Had to trim down the 5 pins poking up out of the driver. All is well now with it. no other issues.
I did get another Lumintop Warranty card.
Perhaps all the bad UT01 lights should get sent back to lumintop? Seems like they want them.
ok, is there any info about the different brightness levels (or current draw) for each mode while in programming setup?
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that is for example while in programming mode for moonlight, the light shows 3 different brightness levels to set, what’s the output for each of them 3?
I got a bad one too.
My second UT01 NW 5000K 3D also had a lumintop warantee card inside it and the light is more greenish then my first.
I really don’t like it.
I turned it on once and saw the horror and quickly putted it back in the box.
I have one more on the way. Fingers crossed that’s a good one.
I just got one of these and it has this issue that it won’t turn on unless I power cycle it after each turn off. And it does that both on 14500 and NiMH. The tint is very yellow (I got the NW), nowhere close to two other 3D lights I have. The springs left dents in the bottom of two NiMH I used (a Fujitsu and a Ladda), although not in the 14500. Pretty bad even for a $10 light.
Crap. My first NW with the good LED is starting to have the button problem.
What’s the procedure to fix this?
Is it the clicky switch that’s starting to wear out?
I haven’t had it for so long, maybe 200-300 clicks on it at most.
If it’s starting to wear out they really must have putted in the cheapest ones or recycled parts.
I received my UT01 yesterday from GB.
It cost me $11.22 and is my worst buy.
I put in a 14500 and pressed the button a few times - YELLOW was my first impression and disappointment.
Then I measured the tint and the lumens values:
3865 K and offset (du’,dv’) = 0.018 which is very, very yellow/green (outside all of Cree’s bins).
The four levels were: 4-23-110-370 lumens (about half the promised value).
Now I put in an Eneloop battery: It would not even turn on!
Put in again the 14500 and the three lower levels worked, but high level only for one second, then it switched to 4 lm.
I know this behaviour from the old TrustFire F20 where some of the drivers burned the 1.5 V booster when exposed to a LiIon battery and could only be used on LiIon after that.
Thats the way my UT01 is now and I can only see this light as an expensive modding host.
UI change in the programming feature? (read below)
Received mine recently (3D) Installed a regular Alkaline primary cell and it worked great, real nice tint - very warm neutral, switch works fine and all modes are working.
The programmable function is also working, but slightly different than described in the OP and earlier posts (the user manual still has nothing about programmable output levels) I first used the instructions from the OP, but these instructions posted in the Discussion thread also worked, except for double tap to exit (had to do a long press to exit):
However for mine there were only 3 programmable modes instead of 4, after I set levels for 3 modes it just goes to high and is no longer auto-ramping, it just remains steady on high, then a single click to strobe, then long press to exit.
I also posted about this in the discussion thread and someone else who ordered one in December replied theirs also had only 3 modes that were programmable. (I ordered mine on Dec. 19th) So it appears they may have changed it to remove programming for HI mode. I’m wondering if that was because when it first came out a few people reported a lower than advertised maximum output, only to discover the default programming for HI wasn’t set to the maximum level.
Can anyone else who also ordered one recently confirm this?
The differences between levels on high are very minor so it’s easy to miss. Make sure you are using a fully charged cell when programming. On a partially depleted cell you won’t see much if any difference between them.
