Okay my Canadian friends I now have the SC26 "little Fatty" added so that you guys can pre-order it just lie anyone else.
Again I am sorry but it is going to be $10.00 shipping.
Later on when hopefully I am shipping 200 or 300 units a month I can cut that shipping in half because USPS gives a very large discount once you are shipping over 200 units in a single month.
USPS will also be emailing me over the next couple of weeks to let me know anytime that I have qualified for discounted shipping.
Anytime they email me and discount my shipping charges I will update the shipping charges on my website and even refund any money for an item that may not have yet shipped like the SC26. By the time I start shipping all of those orders out I may have qualified for a better shipping rate and if that is the case I will refund the difference.
Ok, to get things going: We have lux measurements of 196.000 Lux for the 35 Hi from the GB, which equals to 885m. Im not impressed. 70.2 was measured with 96.000 Lux which is nice (620m).
Yes it hurts the leds. It hurts the electronic components and your skin if you touch it. It’s best to not let it get too hot, though. All things in moderation.
I’ve got hotrod lights that I never bothered to turn on the thermal protection. The heat in my hand tells me when to turn it down.
stepdown the first time to protect, u must be a fool to keep turning off and on again and run this light with that many lumen if it gets scorching hot then nobody should complain if light gets destroyed…
Thanks for summarize it. Was disappointed and stop following it.
I don’t understand why Haikelite wants to bloat their lights throw number, feels like stupid marketing idea, not R&D idea. Make them look bad at the end. But their lights are good quality to me.
It was supposed to peak 1000m throw and have 300,000cd the XHP35 HI but sadly the final units didnt reach that for some reason and even more weird why post that kind of numbers if not live up to it ?
The only light that comes close to this value is Terry’s 35 that initially did about 6000 lumens. With a spring bypass he got close to 7000 lumens, and the lux value should be close to 300k cd I guess.
Does anyone really care about warranties? I always void the warranty shortly after getting a light. I’m weird like that.
The 35 light does not use DD, does it? We know the 70.2 light does.
I’m not sure what kind of driver the 35 lights use. Is it possible to use a FET driver with such a large voltage difference and not get too much current and burn up the emitters?
I was thinking it might be a buck driver like you see a lot of other 4 cell (16.8v) to 12v emitter lights.
The two drivers do look very similar. I really don’t know.
I’m sure many people do, even those who mod lights. I sometimes pay a premium for what I consider (or hope will be) a premium product, intending it to be plug’n’play, expecting it to last and be covered by warranty should it fail. I would certainly put a $100+ flashlight in this category.
JasonWW i care about warranty for a 100$ light as i dont have the skills required to do it and if u dont know what u are doing its better not even try.
I can't stay on tonight. I have a ton of work to do both in the office and in the shop but, I will point out to you what TA and I have found to first off be totally unnecessary and second it is defiantly causing the flickering or people that get a blink when they try to turn it on and that is all they get is that blink they nothing.
There was a capacitor that was added to the original design and we can find no reason at all for it having been added.
I will post a picture of the capacitor that we have very carefully removed. After removing it all of the blinking and flickering issues where people were having to tighten or loosen the tail cap are all gone.
TA measured the Parasitic drain just to be sure someone did not add that to try and lower it. ANd after removing that capacitor parasitic drain is better than it was before the cap was removed. 220ua
Removing it is pretty simple as long as you have the temperature controlled on your iron and don't just go at it wide open. The side connected to the pad is the easiest side to start with, once I get that side loose I just put the tip of my iron on the capacitor itself just until it gets hot enough to pull away from the other side.
If you know what you are doing and have soldered components like this before it will be a breeze. But, if you are not familiar with soldering these types of components it would be best left to someone that has much more experience.
The back side of that capacitor connection must not be over heated, you will pretty much kill the whole driver is that tiny little part get damaged in the process.
I have been testing one of each unit for over a week now with this modification to the driver and both units are working great.
Please remember I am not telling anyone to or not to attempt removing that capacitor themselves I am only telling you what I will be spending most of the night doing to the stock I have here on hand and my next shipment as well when it arrives. So this is what was decided on as being a problem.
I will probably not be back on tonight as I said I have about 15 or 16 here that I have to do. It honestly takes longer to get to the capacitor than to remove it.
Just trying to keep you informed about things happening... LOL I had not abandoned you I just had to get to work and find the issue and get it fixed.