Well, if it’s an XP-L HI running on a FET style Narsil driver then it should be performing at a nice peak value to begin with. Plug an XP-L2 in place of the HI and gain output with some throw loss, or use a Samsung LH351D for similar results with a purer higher quality tint. Slice and dice the XP-L2 to maintain throw, with some admitted loss in beam profile quality, or slice and dice an SST-40 for max power and still great throw.
Lot can be done, much more than those examples, but those are easy improvements anyway…
Exactly. My wife and I pissed away the price of this light a few nights ago, drinking 2 manhattans, and 2 glasses of a good merlot. And that was before we got seated for dinner.
If the factory driver has the switch mounted to it, your aftermarket driver would need to be custom designed to fit a switch on it as well or so I assume.
Be careful assuming things Jason, I rebuild em in all manner of ways.
Edit: I’ve piggybacked a smaller driver onto the stripped former driver, retaining only the switch and re-using it. I’ve glued a switch to a completely new contact board and piggybacked my driver choice onto the new contact board. Doesn’t bother me to put a mechanical clicky in the tail cap and fore-go the e-switch altogether. Usually depends on whatever notion I get while in the process of rebuilding a light. I tend to use parts that are at hand, whatever is easiest to grab or whatever can be modified to work. All part of the challenge.
One might would think that would be the case, but at 4.5A the LH351D is going to have a forward Voltage of around 3.5V, not a lot of headroom for the 4.2V cell especially for all those folks that don’t charge one up to 4.21V to begin with. So it’s pretty much a moot point to have the Buck driver, and especially so since the light comes equipped with an XP-L HI which are notorious for having a high Vf to begin with. Moot point. To my way of thinking, wrong choice.
Well, the 4.5A is turbo, 3.5A is top of the ramp and is probably meant to be the more practical use option.
When it comes to driver swapping, I have to look at the bigger picture, not just what one person is capable of.
BTW, I suspect Lumintops ODF30 of having a similar layout (no driver retaining ring and switch attached to driver). No one has been able to loosen the glue on the battery tube yet.
I may try to heat it up real good, but not so hot to melt the rubber button cover or discolor the finish, and see if I can use my leather welding gloves to twist that sucker apart.