if it don’t add cost per unit, then we can still have them like the original Q8 has. The logo will probably be etched around the head or just below the mid section knurling.
- 1/4”–20 tripod mount on bottom for use as a raised lantern on a tripod.
- 1/4”–20 tripod mount on back of lantern, same as Q8 (for accessory
reflector)
- steel loops on head for addition of para cord Lanyard( or one included with the lantern)
20% lens frosting (or frosted internal sleeve) for smoother light, but not reduce the output no lower than 5% of bare LEDs.
- Up-coming available accessory kit will include:
> white durable plastic directional reflector, (covers 40% of one side of the lens increasing light in one direction.)
>plastic snap on wide base cap for more stability (similar to the ones used for the propane gas Coleman lanterns for stability)
> long 12 foot USB charge cable (for remote Solar charging)
> padded woven storage sleeve storage case.
> upper “wide-hat” plastic white hood brim/reflector for increasing light
downward when hanging above outdoors.
A single Type C port would be sufficient. With USB Power Delivery standard, that single port can be used as both input and output.
For the long term, removal or Type A slot shouldn’t hurt anyone. For a short term - many people would have to use $0.40 adapters
This may or may not be cheaper to produce than dual port. Personally I’d prefer the PD way, but I guess that could make some people unhappy.
I wouldn’t include a charge cable at all. Doesn’t everyone have a collection of cables that’s tailored to their needs?
OTOH, perfect CRI does not always give the most vivid colors. Sometimes wide-spectrum can make colors pop more than high CRI. Getting the mixture right can be tricky though… and if done wrong, it looks bad.
I haven’t done a 3000K + 5000K mix yet in a flashlight, so I don’t know how it looks. It’ll be interesting to find out. Two 3000K and two 5000K bulbs works really well for bathroom lighting though, and makes it much easier to discern subtle shades while applying makeup.
Ditto this. My EDC for the past ~1.5 years has been a mixed tint XP-G3 based triple. It uses a 90cri 5700k, 90cri 3000k and a 5000k with a forgotten CRI.
I keep trying other LED’s and setups but just can not get anything that can match the tint and color in the real world to the human eye.
The only other LED that comes close is the 9080 219B but it gives up too much output but it does look a little better.
Tint mixing 2700K with 5000K, as I think is planned for the lantern, does not get you as far below the BBL as the 2700K/6500K example in the graph from Yuji and the Zanflare T1, and the CRI will therefore not be that far off either.