What are the above (plastic?) discs? Insulating discs for the cell's head with a hole for some protruding spring, cap or whatever in the driver? Why additional tape?
Hmmmm, my 2 arrived today; charged the batteries and gave one a try (after ensuring no shorting issues) and after switching on briefly, it now no longer works.
Investigated and it seems that both springs have compressed, presumably from overheating :weary: the battery rattles back and forth due to no spring tension.
I will double check the potential shorting points, but suspect both springs are probably toast now; does anybody know a good source for replacements. that can handle a little current?
That’s the anodised aluminium front cover for the driver. the hole is for the LED to poke through. Additional tape is to stop the solder points on the LED scratching through the anodising and causing shorts.
All the large springs are taken, but there are small springs left. (Don’t know what size is in this light.) I believe Blue Sword M said he may be ordering more large springs at some point.
But if you do not solve the shorting issue stronger springs are not the solution! Its like bridging a fuse with a massive copper bar. Now the spring has worked as a fuse and stopped the short. A bigger spring would allow higher current if you short it again.
Appreciate the advice, but I’m acutely aware that overcurrent has heated and ruined the springs; good to know they work as a crude protective device though, just need to source suitable replacements now.
Think I found the source of the short after disassembling the entire light in order that to reassemble, testing at every stage of disassembly and reassembly for shorts, I spotted a large split in the wire to the LED, right at the point where it bends through the pill:
Sleeved the split wire, reassembled everything (actually used some thermal paste as opposed to the sniff of the barmaids apron that was used originally), Kapton tape on the top of everything and it works again, to a fashion. Not sure if brainbox might’ve fried as it doesn’t seem to respond quite as it should, though the springs definitely need replacing before I can look into it further
Aha, the holes in the pill for the wires have sharp edges too…
So basically this light has to be disassembled completely and all parts have to be checked and taken care of, and then you can reassemble the light.
Yeah, sounds like my hobby.
I think the loose head can be fixed too by using fatter O-rings.
Looking forward to receiving this light.
Ok, driver in my first one is seriously compromised; now only operates in 3 modes L/L/M - compared to the fully operating one.
Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?
Actual driver boot is ∅22mm like Jaxman Z1, doesn't it? You could go Kaidomain's H2-C boost driver plus XHP35 HI. Sense resistor is 1206 imperial units, 75mV sense, thus add an R100 over the stock R050 for up to 2.25A driving current. More info here: Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy)
No, I would not bother BG with issues with this one. We knew that this is the Cometa with known issues and we are getting them cheap because of that. See it as a wonderful host and that you have to look over every part to get it right.