I looked it up right after posting. The problem is I always have to look it up, because I forget. Same with accessing and using the config mode. I generally need to have the manual in front of me.
To me it's a natural progression dbl click to turbo, dbl click to strobe. From there it's standard mode (non-ramping) operation - this causes confusion for those not used to regular mode usage. I've used the Werner style mode operations for couple years before ramping, so again, all seemed to be logical.
I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
Well, it may not be intuitive. But who wants intuitive access to strobe anyway? Not this guy! It’s good enough that strobe is easy to get to. It doesn’t have to be intuitive to use. That’s what manuals are for. I want all the intuitive things to be things I’m going to use regularly.
I'm told here by the mech engineers it's gold anodizing - believe vendor told me it's anodizing (hint: they are in Houston). Some of the parts are 6061, some are 7075, so the tint varies from part to part.
Wonder though if they can do with a better quality. I got a similar gold SRK clone, but I always thought it was cheaper anodizing from the Q8 - like $25 for 12 LED's (fakes of course). It looks like Sofirn is not making these, but reselling from a cheaper source. This is mine (my pic):
I like my gold SRK. It’s a nice-looking light, even though a lot of its design is superfluous. At some point, I should upgrade it again; the last mod didn’t work out quite how I hoped.
It has a nice Q8 prototype driver inside, but I tried to do some tint mixing and it didn’t mix well. So it needs new emitters. I also have a black SRK of the same old vintage, in need of new springs and a new driver. Too many projects…
So I just got a Q8 and am considering putting Anduril in it. I have heard it requires no soldering, just two screws to remove the driver. There are a few versions in the toybox, should I just use the latest? Also figuring I don’t need to reset any fuses?
great, thanks! 1 question, does the mode where the button LED “flickers” take more power because the Attiny 85 is on, or is this some sort of sleep mode still?