I went out and used my D25 a couple nights ago while I applied crabgrass preventer to my nearly 1 acre. It lit up the yard nicely. And with it being mildly cool out, the temp regulation* helped keep things bright but still in check.
*Stock light does not have temp regulation… It gained that after my MCU swap
Was able to fit a couple of 60deg 17mm Yajiameis in mine. Had to sand down the diameter and base of the optics until they fit. Also swapped in some neutral white XML2s. Can’t remember exact tint but probably 4C.
In preparation of my review of the D25 I noticed something odd about the beam profile. The spot is darker in the center, seems like a slight donuthole.
Could it be that this is the result of the overlay of two emitter beams, causing areas of erasure and amplification?
PCB part just under MCU (between MCU and FET Q1) is different as well. It would be nice to check PCD layout on the back side, but it look like divers are a bit different. I would rather expect the same MCU on both. Used FETs and resistors are different probably due to number of leds used, but I think that schematics might be the same for both. Maybe one of those is just an newer revision.
Wellp, I just used my D25 about a half-hour ago. I still kinda warmed to the UI. It’s… different… but not necessarily bad.
Still, after also having played with my Q8 at length, and GTmicro today, and given that the D25 has an e-switch, it can very very very easily have the same UI as those.
Click to turn on, click to turn off.
Click’n’hold, or hold-when-on, to ramp up. Unclick then quickly click’n’hold to ramp back down. Unlike the micro, memorise the last level. Doubleclick for turbo. Etc., etc., etc.
Someone here can point you at the innards for the UI most people would want.
Build the D25 with that UI, and you’ll clean up, as no one will have anything like it.
Also, if at all possible, use TIR lenses instead of reflectors. Easy to swap to go from throw to flood and anywhere in-between.
The custom pcb for the LEDs is interesting (ie, 2 LEDs on 1 board), but 2 separate pcbs that “float” on thermal goop and are held in place by the TIRs would awesome.
That sounds nice. Hopefully sofirn can also improve it to be more waterproof. Maybe just add o-ring for the front cover like the nitecore hc60 and 65. I’m starting to like this headlamp after the emitter and optics swap but can not recommend it for outdoor wet season use because of its lack of waterproofing. I doubt it can survive continuous rain at it’s present state.