My SP70 (kit version) has arrived 2 days ago. Iâm very satisfied with it. I didnât find any imperfections on the body/anodization nor in the reflector. It seems Sofirn made big progress in dust-free assembly. Those 26650 cells included in the kit version (from Amazon DE) seem to be their standard 26650s with 5.500mAh and without âHigh Drainâ label.
There is nothing wrong with the SP70 Kit. In fact, it checks all the marks for me. Tail switch w/momentary, check. Super bright, check. Good batteries, check. Wide hot spot, check. Weighty for thug beatings, check. Tint, it has one, check. All kidding aside, I am anxious for the BLF version because it is sure to kick ass. Iâm just wondering what the consensus will be on the specs and how we will resolve the range of priorities. AR glass, fancy springs, perfect button alignment, etc.
I now like my Sofirn SP70 more than ever. What happened was I noticed a voltage inequality between the 2 EBL 26650 cells after using to where they needed recharge. I correctly attributed this to the lack of good contact between cells, due to Flat tops. I drove to Home Depot and purchased a pack of Neodymium Disc Magnets (pictured). The foam adhesive removed easily, and the bare magnet fit the Flat top well. Now I can feel both cells are equally drained and the runtime has dramatically and to my great delight increased as one expects and hopes of 2x26650 5000 mAh rechargeable lithium ion batteries. Perfection achieved on a strict budget!
Wow big, hefty light. Just what I was looking for - but wonât turn on. DOA it seems. Green Shockli 26650s worked just fine in D4S. Topped them off to 4.2 last night. Connections cleaned, head and tail as tight as I can get them. Bummer.
First light I have gotten where it wonât turn on right out of the box (well, after the cells are in anyhow).
Guess I will be pushing back to Amazon in the morning.
I think the magnet material itself is not a good electrical conductor and most of the current might be passing through the thin plating on the surface of each magnet (probably nickel plating). For flat top batteries I would cut a small round piece of copper (copper plate 2mm thick from Lowes) and solder it on top.
Sorry to hear about the DOA. Did the green LED light up the side switch? I assume the connection between each battery in series is good. If you have a few 18650 button top batteries, maybe you can use the plastic tube adapters and try those batteries?
So your batteries do make contact from head to tail?
You might try loading the batteries, but leave the tail cap off then run a jumper wire from battery negative to the battery tube. This bypasses the tail switch.
You also might try removing the battery tube from the head and make sure there is no glue on top of the driver. The battery tube has to screw down and press on the drivers outer ring. I had a little glue on mine, but not enough to prevent a connection. If they added a bit too much glue it could harden on the driver ring and prevent the battery tube from screwing all the way down and making good contact.
Also make sure the tail cap retaining ring is tight.
Yep cncyana and Jason your suspicion was warranted. I found a pair of protected button-top 18650âs, adding about 6 mm total length and, BINGO, let there be light. I then remembered I had a faulty Folomov travel charger with the magnets (would charge batteries but didnât work in reverse to charge a device), so I scavanged one of the magnets as a spacer between the too-short, flat-top, 26650s and things work fine now.
All modes and turbo seem to be working fine. Will now check and make sure batteries discharge evenly. If not, I guess maybe I will solder a blob on them.
Boy I like the light. It is a tank. I have lotâs of lights but not a single âthwackerâ until now.