Received my order today, i just ordered thursday, so shipping is really fast.
My order came well packed and in a sealed ESD bag, the quality of the items and packaging of LED4POWER is top notch!
A little bit thicker (and stiffer) bronze spring with the 12x9mm dimensions and measured ~7.8mOhm of resistance (right one in picture below next to the 11mOhm 1.0mm wire spring):
Hi Neven, would you be willing and able to sell the mosX material as round blanks? This would be great for some highly integrated driver/MCPCB combos....
mosX material can't be used for DIY because there is layer of titanium above ceramic on which copper is electroplated. You can't etch titanium with anything that's not terribly dangerous for DIY.
I tried to etch it with standard FeCl3 solution and it does remove copper layer but titanium layer stays.
My manufacturer said that they have problems with sourcing this material so batch of 16/20mm mosX/aluramic boards for IR LEDs is probably my last of this kind.
Hi Neven, would you be willing and able to sell the mosX material as round blanks? This would be great for some highly integrated driver/MCPCB combos….
mosX material can’t be used for DIY because there is layer of titanium above ceramic on which copper is electroplated. You can’t etch titanium with anything that’s not terribly dangerous for DIY.
I tried to etch it with standard FeCl3 solution and it does remove copper layer but titanium layer stays.
My manufacturer said that they have problems with sourcing this material so batch of 16/20mm mosX/aluramic boards for IR LEDs is probably my last of this kind.
Too bad, but thanks.
Does the supply shortage mean the “standard” MOSLED will be gone too?
ehh, just noticed my mistake… I meant the MOSLED, not the mosX/aluramic. I’ve been able to etch those with FeCl3 after removing the solder mask in select spots, although the bare alu needs to be masked off too. (It goes faster than the copper!)
I have not seen one proper 14mm DTPMCPCB available anywhere. Maybe you should consider making 100 or so. Even if they are expensive. It’s a special item, and what better place to stock it than at led4power.com
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn’t make sense to me.
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Hi Neven, I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn't make sense to me.
Your clamp ammeter is probably off by a little bit (somewhere in BLF I reported that UNI-T clamp meters can be off quite a bit, but I don't remember which thread it was), when I'm testing drivers (with 0.1% accurate Rigol DP811) currents are usually accurate within 1% in 99% of cases.
Neven, still waiting for your LH351Ds 4000K 90 CRI. What's the forecast? Is there a point in waiting longer or I should look for something diffrent?
I doon't plan to stock that LED anymore, unless I find really good tint, but chance for that is close to zero based on my experience. LH35D is really nice LED overall, but it's not the best at anything (CRI,output,tint, overdriving...) so it's not very interesting for flashlight modders.
Hi Neven, I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn’t make sense to me.
Your clamp ammeter is probably off by a little bit (somewhere in BLF I reported that UNI-T clamp meters can be off quite a bit, but I don’t remember which thread it was), when I’m testing drivers (with 0.1% accurate Rigol DP811) currents are usually accurate within 1% in 99% of cases.
I’m using a Fluke 319 that can zero before DC measurement. When this driver was used with the Luxeon V it was set at 5A and I measured 4.946A. It’s strange, because the Fluke 319 is supposed to have a 1.6% tolerance on the 40A setting. I’ll do a further investigation….
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Hmmmm… So when will these be available?
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
LD-A4-20 in 2-3 days, LD-B4-20 a little bit later.
led4power.com
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Same firmware and features?
Yes, this is still LD-x4 generation, just 20mm diameter (with some pcb modifications for easier use, such as bigger wire holes and soldering pads).
led4power.com
Neven, do you see any chance to offer Carclo 10507 triple and 10621 quad optics in your shop?
Unfortunately, the 10507 seems sold out but was offered for a very reasonable price in the past.
Hvala vam!
Cheers, Thomas
I will see, it seems demand for optics is quite low, so I'm currently investing more in custom stuff not available elsewhere like MCPCBs.
led4power.com
What about offering different sizes of drivers? currently i only see the 17mm in three varieties
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
You mean like this
That looks like it, indeed.
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
LD-A4-20 (20mm version) is available:
LD-A4-20
led4power.com
New mosX (called aluramic now) for Osram and Luxeon IR LEDs, 20mm and finally in 16mm size:
ALURAMIC 3030 20mm
ALURAMIC 3030 16mm
I will add linsings for Osram 4715AS-EA and Luxeon IR on these boards too.
led4power.com
I must have missed that one.
Actually i was looking for a 22mm driver, otherwise i’ll just have to order an adapter retaining ring
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
Received my order today, i just ordered thursday, so shipping is really fast.
My order came well packed and in a sealed ESD bag, the quality of the items and packaging of LED4POWER is top notch!
I will keep you posted with results
WTB: Jetbeam TCR-1 or Sunwayman V10R Ti
A little bit thicker (and stiffer) bronze spring with the 12x9mm dimensions and measured ~7.8mOhm of resistance (right one in picture below next to the 11mOhm 1.0mm wire spring):
7.8mOhm bronze spring
led4power.com
Those Aluramic boards are beautiful, and those bronze springs look like they’ll do nicely! All-around great upgrades.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Hi Neven,
would you be willing and able to sell the mosX material as round blanks? This would be great for some highly integrated driver/MCPCB combos….
When lh351d 4000k will be available?
And how about 14mm DTP MCPCB’s?
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
mosX material can't be used for DIY because there is layer of titanium above ceramic on which copper is electroplated. You can't etch titanium with anything that's not terribly dangerous for DIY.
I tried to etch it with standard FeCl3 solution and it does remove copper layer but titanium layer stays.
My manufacturer said that they have problems with sourcing this material so batch of 16/20mm mosX/aluramic boards for IR LEDs is probably my last of this kind.
led4power.com
I will not stock it anymore unless I find good tint.
led4power.com
Demand for that is probably too low.
led4power.com
Too bad, but thanks.
Does the supply shortage mean the “standard” MOSLED will be gone too?
ehh, just noticed my mistake… I meant the MOSLED, not the mosX/aluramic. I’ve been able to etch those with FeCl3 after removing the solder mask in select spots, although the bare alu needs to be masked off too. (It goes faster than the copper!)
I made only one batch on mosled (black) pcbs, it's not really high performing material compared to mosx and dtp, so I will not stock those either.
led4power.com
I have not seen one proper 14mm DTP MCPCB available anywhere. Maybe you should consider making 100 or so. Even if they are expensive. It’s a special item, and what better place to stock it than at led4power.com
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Hi Neven,
I have tried one of my 4-6 Amp LD-A4 drivers with a single SST-20 set at 4A high mode. I measured the tail current at only 3.73A, and voltage over the LED at 3.436V (which is spot on for 4A for this LED). This was on a fully charged NCR18650GA. I did not measure the current from the driver to the LED. Is the measured 3.73A tail current close to what the LED is getting? Something doesn’t make sense to me.
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Neven, still waiting for your LH351Ds 4000K 90 CRI. What’s the forecast? Is there a point in waiting longer or I should look for something diffrent?
[WTS] HID host: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68693
[WTB] Interesting LEDs:http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68968
Your clamp ammeter is probably off by a little bit (somewhere in BLF I reported that UNI-T clamp meters can be off quite a bit, but I don't remember which thread it was), when I'm testing drivers (with 0.1% accurate Rigol DP811) currents are usually accurate within 1% in 99% of cases.
led4power.com
I doon't plan to stock that LED anymore, unless I find really good tint, but chance for that is close to zero based on my experience. LH35D is really nice LED overall, but it's not the best at anything (CRI,output,tint, overdriving...) so it's not very interesting for flashlight modders.
led4power.com
I’m using a Fluke 319 that can zero before DC measurement. When this driver was used with the Luxeon V it was set at 5A and I measured 4.946A. It’s strange, because the Fluke 319 is supposed to have a 1.6% tolerance on the 40A setting. I’ll do a further investigation….
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
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