I know many have seen that I had huge delay in last 3 weeks literally came not to forum orders
I was barely getting enough time to deal with commercial stuff with Fireflies and Astrolux for example
last 2 days I was so busy completely rearranging my living room to fit a 190×70cm working table to get enough space to work more efficiently on flashlight stuff,
my couch, couch table, parts of the furniture and the cat tree were literally packed with flashlight stuff, also window and floor with a lot of stuff standing around everywhere
Also have at the moment 12 young cat babies that need to be dealt with to get them sold that eats time as they are now 9 and 10 weeks old from 2 cat moms
Twelve kittens around flashlight stuff That must be the cutest FL workplace ever , no matter how packed during all the rearranging. Must be interesting to see the contrast between giving life to all the electronic components and seeing living creatures giving birth to many small copies of their kind “just” by nature and instincts. We would maybe buy a kitten, if we were living closer (actually, we live in a neighbouring country), but I think I will stick with driver(s) for now
Take your time! (Hope my long PM didn’t - or won’t - take too much of your time )
Yeah all standard. I can flash Anduril so settings aren’t too important but I’d be looking for efficiency/usable levels rather than hotrodding. There won’t be an illuminated switch. Hardware wise, is it FET+n+1?
Trying to figure out what needs to be done to make it work in the Nitecores atm. I was originally thinking it would be plug and play as the piston drive effectively acts as the e-switch? I can upload photos of the driver later if it will help.
the battery + contact remains in constant contact with the driver board, the spring on the - end of the battery keeps the piston sleeve out of contact while the head is unscrewed sufficiently.
as you screw down the head, the piston sleeve comes into contact with the brass ring, which powers on the light to whatever setting you last left it at
while the piston sleeve is in contact with the brass ring, you can press the sleeve in further by pressing on the rear, to bring the brass ring into contact with the driver board. the driver board, which already has power from the brass ring, through the spring, uses the brass ring to circuit board contact as signal information only, this signal means to ramp up/down or change modes in some way.
if you want to maintain momentary and constant on, you need to hook up your ground side of your led to the pill directly, or to the spring, as the pill and the spring will be ‘grounded’ by the sleeve touching the brass retaining ring (before the ring touches the driver board)
I also have a D10 and I’ve been looking to mod it with Narsil or Anduril too!
My question about these drivers is about the 7135 chips on the back! I’m afraid that they don’t fit well with the contact ring…
In case you advance with this option, please let me know how it works!
Is single sided an option?
Also, the light it’s going into will require me to shave the driver down to around 21.2-21.5mm. How wide is the contact ring around the edge?