I never had problems with pads coming off pcb, it seems you are using way too high soldering temperature, do you have any pictures of your soldering work?
You can solder wire to those resistor pads, but be careful, if you are holding soldering tip for too long or temperature is too high, you could easily desolder/remove resistor since it's very small.
Which mosX board and which 6V LED are you using? "M" pad is connected to LED cathode. There should be no continuity between + and M, maybe you've soldered LED rotated by 90deg? You should check LED and MCPCB first, of course driver can't work if LED pads are shorted.
In third picture is Luxeon MZ (3V LED) driven by LD-B4 driver (not LD-B4HV which is >1S driver), LD-B4 has moonlight support so M wire is for moonlight modes.
My soldering is probably the cause
I’m using a regular 25-30W soldering iron without temperature control. Heating the wire/pad until the solder is melted and then let go.
I might have soldered the LED wrong also, but if M is connected to LED cathode there should be continuity between “+” and “m” on the mosx when measure through the LED? Like in the photo:
Don’t know if this is usual, but the LED lights up when I use my voltmeter on continuity setting so I know the LED is working at least. Just like in the picture when I measure between + and m.
And at first I did connect battery and all and discovered I wasn’t able to adjust brightness or enter setup mode. The LED was running direct drive I guess. Luckily the battery wasn’t full and I jused just thin wires to test with. It was bright
The LEDs are a XHP70.2 6V on the mosX connected in series with a XHP50.2 6V on separate pcb. Driven by 4 samsung 18650 batteries in series. The driver is the 4s/6A version.
The curcuit seems to be fine when the gate wire is not connected between driver and mosx. When this wire is connected it seems like the FET is shorted or connected somehow, like this: https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7t1gmPpkZ4z7LgE9
Try to measure exact resistance (instead of continuity) between + and M pads, with LED should still see high resistance. Best way to set LED is to set multimeter to diode test, if LED is ok it will emit some light, but that usually only works for 3V LEDs.
Since you are running 2 LEDs on separate PCBs, how did you connect those PCBs? Diagram for one LED looks ok.
I followed this video on how to flow the LED onto the mosx. Only difference was that I did it in the kitchen using an old frying pan (don’t use it for cooking anymore ).
Used low temperature solder paste. I don’t think the solder on the fet melted while I did it.
Yes it is. Input voltage on the driver is 16V. Two series LEDs in series.
Maybe I should switch them around so the mosx is closest to ground?
But this was my next question: do I need to hook up the battery for the FET to function? I thought it was normally open curcuit. A bit scared to power on after yesterday when I think it was direct drive..
Ok, thanks again! Will see when I get home. Btw when I say continuity I mean diode test. Sorry Added the other pcb/LED to my scheme https://photos.app.goo.gl/gMhamVpvTYJU51z77 This other LED did come on sinkpad pcb. It's only the XHP70 og mosX i did myself.
mosX board should be last in chain from battery + to gnd (or closest to gnd), so if you connect it like in diagram it's not good.
Yes it is. Input voltage on the driver is 16V. Two series LEDs in series. Maybe I should switch them around so the mosx is closest to ground? But this was my next question: do I need to hook up the battery for the FET to function? I thought it was normally open curcuit. A bit scared to power on after yesterday when I think it was direct drive..
FET is normally open (high resistance) but if gate pin is free floating it can be charged for example via testing with mulitmeter and FET will be in closed (low Ohm) state for quite a few seconds even without any voltage applied to gate becasue of gate capacitance.
Actually this is the way I test mosX boards with FET: I charge gate by applying x.xV for 1-2sec, and then I connect mosX board with LED to power supply to + and - pads like standard (non mosX ) MCPCBs.
At 3Amps per LED they are within rated manufacturer current which means they would be ok even on ultra cheap standard dielectric MCPCBs, so black mosled 4x is more than fine.
Ldb4 hv 6A driving 1 xhp70.2 and 1 xhp50.2 in series off a 4S battery. CNC milled housing in aluminium for good thermal properties. 3d printed gopro mount. And remote control of course. Looking forward to try it on the trails
I never had problems with pads coming off pcb, it seems you are using way too high soldering temperature, do you have any pictures of your soldering work?
You can solder wire to those resistor pads, but be careful, if you are holding soldering tip for too long or temperature is too high, you could easily desolder/remove resistor since it's very small.
Which mosX board and which 6V LED are you using? "M" pad is connected to LED cathode. There should be no continuity between + and M, maybe you've soldered LED rotated by 90deg? You should check LED and MCPCB first, of course driver can't work if LED pads are shorted.
In third picture is Luxeon MZ (3V LED) driven by LD-B4 driver (not LD-B4HV which is >1S driver), LD-B4 has moonlight support so M wire is for moonlight modes.
led4power.com
Thanks for quick reply!
My soldering is probably the cause
I’m using a regular 25-30W soldering iron without temperature control. Heating the wire/pad until the solder is melted and then let go.
I might have soldered the LED wrong also, but if M is connected to LED cathode there should be continuity between “+” and “m” on the mosx when measure through the LED? Like in the photo:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7zJkgkEzvu6Ewvh58
Don’t know if this is usual, but the LED lights up when I use my voltmeter on continuity setting so I know the LED is working at least. Just like in the picture when I measure between + and m.
And at first I did connect battery and all and discovered I wasn’t able to adjust brightness or enter setup mode. The LED was running direct drive I guess. Luckily the battery wasn’t full and I jused just thin wires to test with. It was bright
The LEDs are a XHP70.2 6V on the mosX connected in series with a XHP50.2 6V on separate pcb. Driven by 4 samsung 18650 batteries in series. The driver is the 4s/6A version.
The curcuit seems to be fine when the gate wire is not connected between driver and mosx. When this wire is connected it seems like the FET is shorted or connected somehow, like this:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7t1gmPpkZ4z7LgE9
Try to measure exact resistance (instead of continuity) between + and M pads, with LED should still see high resistance. Best way to set LED is to set multimeter to diode test, if LED is ok it will emit some light, but that usually only works for 3V LEDs.
Since you are running 2 LEDs on separate PCBs, how did you connect those PCBs? Diagram for one LED looks ok.
led4power.com
Ok, thanks again!
Will see when I get home.
Btw when I say continuity I mean diode test. Sorry
Added the other pcb/LED to my scheme
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gMhamVpvTYJU51z77
This other LED did come on sinkpad pcb. It’s only the XHP70 og mosX i did myself.
Measured resistanse between + and M. Even at 20M it is out of range.
Tried new driver. Soldered gate very carefully
went ok.
Same result though when I have my meter on diode test and measure between + and – on mosx the LED lights up as if the FET is on.
Adding some pictures. Is it possible the LED itself sit wrong on the pcb allthough I cant measure any shorts?
The driver
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zD7FrEAZbGh84Y5cA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6T5JUNVrtyFr6aAr8
MosX
https://photos.app.goo.gl/K6AEKF3prcprw3Qb7
From led4power website to see how the pads look
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RKm4gKoJFVk25Sef8
XHP 70 datasheet shows what is anode and cathode
https://photos.app.goo.gl/x7qc3BpDYKGLPtYa8
I followed this video on how to flow the LED onto the mosx. Only difference was that I did it in the kitchen using an old frying pan (don’t use it for cooking anymore
).
Used low temperature solder paste. I don’t think the solder on the fet melted while I did it.
https://youtu.be/B3F68ubfBkk
So your FET is in series with two leds? Does it get the right voltage to function?
link to djozz tests
Yes it is. Input voltage on the driver is 16V. Two series LEDs in series.
Maybe I should switch them around so the mosx is closest to ground?
But this was my next question: do I need to hook up the battery for the FET to function? I thought it was normally open curcuit. A bit scared to power on after yesterday when I think it was direct drive..
mosX board should be last in chain from battery + to gnd (or closest to gnd), so if you connect it like in diagram it's not good.
led4power.com
Cool. I’ll try
FET is normally open (high resistance) but if gate pin is free floating it can be charged for example via testing with mulitmeter and FET will be in closed (low Ohm) state for quite a few seconds even without any voltage applied to gate becasue of gate capacitance.
Actually this is the way I test mosX boards with FET: I charge gate by applying x.xV for 1-2sec, and then I connect mosX board with LED to power supply to + and - pads like standard (non mosX ) MCPCBs.
led4power.com
Worked like a charm! Excellent, thank you.
Some test fitting while I wait on LEDs
New LD-B4 12A 20MM. The pads are huge on this and easy to solder. Looking forward to finishing this build..
Finished product:
LEDs: 6x LH351D 3500K 90CRI
12A CC mode
~11.55A tail – 3,205lm
FET mode (VTC5D)
~19.4A tail – 4,370lm
Was there never a MOSLED Extreme 4*XP*? Only the black board one was made?
Yes, no 4xp mosX in 20mm size.
led4power.com
The black mosled should be ok with M2 quad at 12A right? Sitting on big chunk of copper
Which LEDs?
led4power.com
351D or SST-20 probably
At 3Amps per LED they are within rated manufacturer current which means they would be ok even on ultra cheap standard dielectric MCPCBs, so black mosled 4x is more than fine.
led4power.com
My new helmet light.
Ldb4 hv 6A driving 1 xhp70.2 and 1 xhp50.2 in series off a 4S battery. CNC milled housing in aluminium for good thermal properties. 3d printed gopro mount. And remote control of course. Looking forward to try it on the trails
Next step is anodizing and paint.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/iitiGKdBAruXCwbD8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/sNYXwPNi9yMg6Vkm8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MjQkugScJjMPFXzb8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/km6Etn64wY469faA9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bPFP5v5H3x48W7if8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YtoXnkFL3t3JSvMf9
Damn that is fancy. Nice work
Thanks
Neven, is your website down for maintenance? I’m struggling to get it loaded.
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Hosting provider issues, I hope they will fix that today.
led4power.com
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
It should work now.
led4power.com
Thanks it’s working…
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
The server is up but the store is not accessible.
It's back now, but until some updates are done I'm not sure how long it will work (again), so if you plan to order, it's good to do it now.
led4power.com
After some updates web is working stable now.
Luxeon MZ (on all PCBs), Osram IR and Luxeon IR are on clearance sale:
https://led4power.com/product-category/leds1/lumiledsluxeon/luxeon-mz-4x2mm2-die/
https://led4power.com/?s=4715as+osram&post_type=product
led4power.com
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