There is trace of glue on the pocket clip and the inner tube is pretty much stuck inside the body as well so i think there’s a good chance that it has been glued. I’ve also checked with the store, they said all their FW3A have been glued like this from the factory but only in their recent batch and not on the earlier ones.
Received my purple edition today (thanks ToyKeeper). Worked great out of box - I opened it anyway, it has a black retaining ring in the tail, silver clip, and a brass retaining ring in the head. I forget how to check the Anduril version (well, I forget how to check for the manual memory or two-step lockout mode). Also has a glass lens and Carclo optic.
I went with the SST-20 4000K for this one, and I’m not noticing any green, so it’s a pretty good tint. The button doesn’t feel better or worse than I recall the button being on my original, group-buy edition FW3A.
Fake edit: Checked, and it does have a two-step lockout mode. I don’t remember other details to check for, or what Anduril version that indicates.
I got mine 3 days ago, but the batteries I ordered were supposed to arrive yesterday, instead I got this bogus tracking notice “we are unable to access you residence, we will make an attempt on the next business day” which is mailman speak for I am too tired/lazy and want to go home . And of course there is no mail tomorrow for holiday, so I have to sit and stare at this light for 2 more days
some rogue mailman dropped off my batteries on a holiday today! I had similar issues with this V2 version as a lot reported, mostly it wouldn’t shut off, one time right after I hit turbo, man was that hot unscrewing the head. then it wouldn’t turn on after I let it cool. Took it apart and cleaned everything with alcohol, still nothing.
Seems to be working now after I cranked down the tail and head simultaneously, that seems to be best way to get some good leverage. Hopefully that was the only issue.
I don’t have a meter to do that, but I can tell you for sure you will never have this light on Turbo for 5 minutes. You would be in the burn unit by then.
With my lights —if you don’t manually step down Turbo —they will ramp down and continiue to ramp way down — sometimes to 35 lumens or so —I have the Temp set on 60c—you better be careful it will burn you —that’s in about 2 min —- it only stays in Turbo for 30 + seconds
Yea i’m referring to lights with the thermal regulation set correctly i’m not sure why scosgt is reading my reply as otherwise. Anyways, curious to see where and how fast it ends up at that “few hundred lumen” level depending on the material. I have one of each of the metals but only 2 share the same LED or I would do it myself. I may still try I suppose.
ok please forgive me if this has been brought up already but has anyone else had the button of their cells absolutely crushed by the driver spring of the FW3A?
2 things, there is a length limit which is why flat top cells are recommended.
Second, anytime you have a new flashlight you have to make sure to not over tighten the head or tail and crush/damage the battery.
This would be a different situation where the G forces of the dropped battery dented the button. That can happen by dropping a battery by itself. It’s a little more likely to happen inside a flashlight as the impact angle doesn’t have to be so exact and the coiled spring focuses the pressure on a smaller area. The middle of the button is weaker than the edge.
5 minute 30 second fan cooled with GA cell at 4.1x volts. I make no promises of the accuracy and in fact I don’t think the percentages are accurate but i’m hoping the overall shape is. When I pulled it off the box the SST-20 lights were in the 320-360 lumen range which doesn’t make sense given the percent stated.