My SP32A didn’t have any green but was too cool white for me. It had a tiny bit of blue. However, having the super efficient XP-L2 V6 bin emitter is impressive for a low cost light and it is very bright. It also has the best one button UI besides the Emisar D4 that I have used. I think the only thing missing from the D4 is the hold from off to go to moon light. If they have a more neutral/warm tint option, I will buy another one.
SP31 UI is horrible. You need to untwist it to turn it off. Unless I’m missing something.
Button in tailcap. You miss a button
OMG you are right! I just took a look at their Aliexpress webpage and realize it’s supposed to have a button in the tail cap. The one they sent me didn’t have a tail cap button. No wonder I can’t turn it off! I bought mine from Amazon.com
Edit: I contacted Sofirn through Amazon and they let me know that I accidentally swapped the the SP31 tailcap with the button onto the SP32A. Oops my bad =( ….. But it actually worked great on the SP32A, which already had one of the best single button UI. The SP31 with the right tail cap is actually an extremely user friendly two switch flashlight. Sofirn was also very nice to ship me a replacement tail cap eventhough it was my mistake.
Thanks, I’m curious what flashlight was the TIR from? (if it was the stock lens it came with?)
Also do you happen to recall the size of it? Height & Dia.(If you measured it)
Well, this was the light from where I took the TIR lens https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Stainless-Shell-300Lm-CREE-Q5-LED-Torch-Light-LED-Flashlight-For-Sporting-Camping-Hiking-free-shipping/1387052485.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BChkAl
It is a Stainless Steel (3xAAA / 18650) light, and I modded it with a brass pill, biscotti driver and a Convoy S2+ reflector and lens. I had to dismantle it later but will put it to work again soon!
Yes this really helps, thanks for the link to the TIR thread, that’s an interesting thread, that optic from the SS light measures like the ones for S2+, guess I’ll have to just try some different ones too.
And thanks for the link to the SS light,Yupard has a lot of interesting budget lights.
I have now modded mine with a TIR under the glass and an extra O-Ring.
Did a Great Job of blending the awful colours, and diffusing the Hot Spot.
Thanks for the Hints and Tips, we all learn something new from each other on BLF.
Ordered 2 more as on special at Ali Xp.
Cheers,
S-L :-)
—
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
I have now modded mine with a TIR under the glass and an extra O-Ring.
Did a Great Job of blending the awful colours, and diffusing the Hot Spot.
Thanks for the Hints and Tips, we all learn something new from each other on BLF.
Ordered 2 more as on special at Ali Xp.
Cheers,
S-L
Hi Splott-Light
Glad these experiences helped you on your mod as well Indeed, the stock “beam” is kind of but the TIR allows it to get better! If I didn’t have the idea of the triple mod, I would have stayed with the TIR instead of the reflector.
It was too much “greenish”!!
If I may ask, what TIR did you use? I used one from another light and it fit perfectly (without the gasket). Did you use TIR + gasket?
If you can tell or show what you used that would be great as other members may benefit from that as well
I have now modded mine with a TIR under the glass and an extra O-Ring.
Did a Great Job of blending the awful colours, and diffusing the Hot Spot.
Thanks for the Hints and Tips, we all learn something new from each other on BLF.
Ordered 2 more as on special at Ali Xp.
Cheers,
S-L
Hi Splott-Light
Glad these experiences helped you on your mod as well Indeed, the stock “beam” is kind of but the TIR allows it to get better! If I didn’t have the idea of the triple mod, I would have stayed with the TIR instead of the reflector.
It was too much “greenish”!!
If I may ask, what TIR did you use? I used one from another light and it fit perfectly (without the gasket). Did you use TIR + gasket?
If you can tell or show what you used that would be great as other members may benefit from that as well
Thanks again
I would also like to know this. The reflector height is 15mm, the TIR’s I have are around 11.7mm-12.6mm so they’re too short. Couldn’t find any the right size that were made for XP-L2
I had to strip off the outer white shell as I had problems with the width and didn’t have the Patience to Dremel it!.
Used an extra “O” ring and it fitted under the Glass!
Cheers,
S-L
Edit as found source of purchase at nearly 1 a.m. I Must be Mad!
—
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
I had to strip off the outer white shell as I had problems with the width and didn’t have the Patience to Dremel it!.
Used an extra “O” ring and it fitted under the Glass!
Cheers,
S-L
Edit as found source of purchase at nearly 1 a.m. I Must be Mad!
Hi Splott-Light! Thanks for posting the links for the TIRs!
Hum, those seem to be like the Convoy S2+ TIRs, with the white gasket! Funny, I didn’t experimented those before I tried the one I used for a while…
Well, but if they fit well (even with the mods you’ve done) that’s nice
I guess that someday I will try to open the SP32 (not the SP32A) and stick a TIR there as well, to smoothen the beam
Thanks for taking the time to write
And if you are Mad…welcome to the club
Received my SP32A earlier this week and really liked it.
I have the same optics from Fasttech, in 10, 15, 30 and 60 degrees, also from a few years ago.
So I tried to put a 15 degree in and accidentally dedomed the LED
The centering gasket was stuck (glued?) to the bottom of the reflector and I didn’t put any in, I was trying to measure how thick of an o-ring I needed and the sharp legs of the optic dedomed it. It took away some phosphorus so now I have a sick purple beam that looks something like UV.
So soon I will order an XP-L2 V5 4000k to replace it. The 5350-5700K was a bit too cool for me anyhow. I’ve read the XP-L2 5000K is a bit cold compared to others and the 4000k has less tint shift.
A few thing differ from the review:
1. Ramping time: about 3 seconds from lowest to highest (and visa-versa)
2. MCPCB has a smaller silver screw instead of the black one, and the head is smaller than the opening in the board, so the screw wasn’t doing anything! Also the threaded shaft of the screw is too thin so it’s loose in it’s hole!
I may not use a screw with the new MCPCB if the reflector holds it down, otherwise I’ll need to drill a hole in the new board for it and get a larger screw.
Sorry to hear of your Modding disaster, I feel for your loss as I quite often “Fix” something to death!
I’m running at about a 1 to 2 ratio of killed to fixed.
2 out of 3 ‘aint Bad, as Meatloaf sang!
I think Martin (MadMax) has a “What did you kill today” thread for us newer Modders.
Hope your new LED is the tint you like.
Shame the SP31’s can’t be as easily opened for modding.
Sofirn also seem to have Modified any of their lights that had suspect heat sinking in a fairly quick time too (beginning in March).
I am loving their lights.
I think Sofirn could be a Force to be Reckoned with if they Play their cards right.
Cheers,
S-L
—
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
2. MCPCB has a smaller silver screw instead of the black one, and the head is smaller than the opening in the board, so the screw wasn’t doing anything! Also the threaded shaft of the screw is too thin so it’s loose in it’s hole!
I may not use a screw with the new MCPCB if the reflector holds it down, otherwise I’ll need to drill a hole in the new board for it and get a larger screw.
Even if it wasn’t tight, the screw will keep the the MCPCB from rotating if the reflector rotates as you tighten it. Still, it would be good if there was no chance of it being shaken loose in the head.
2. MCPCB has a smaller silver screw instead of the black one, and the head is smaller than the opening in the board, so the screw wasn’t doing anything! Also the threaded shaft of the screw is too thin so it’s loose in it’s hole!
I may not use a screw with the new MCPCB if the reflector holds it down, otherwise I’ll need to drill a hole in the new board for it and get a larger screw.
Even if it wasn’t tight, the screw will keep the the MCPCB from rotating if the reflector rotates as you tighten it. Still, it would be good if there was no chance of it being shaken loose in the head.
Good point I never thought of that, is that the main function of the screw? Or was it mainly to hold the MCPCB down tight? (because the reflector should do that anyhow?)
…………..
So I tried to put a 15 degree in and accidentally dedomed the LED
The centering gasket was stuck (glued?) to the bottom of the reflector and I didn’t put any in, I was trying to measure how thick of an o-ring I needed and the sharp legs of the optic dedomed it. It took away some phosphorus so now I have a sick purple beam that looks something like UV.
So soon I will order an XP-L2 V5 4000k to replace it. The 5350-5700K was a bit too cool for me anyhow. I’ve read the XP-L2 5000K is a bit cold compared to others and the 4000k has less tint shift.
SKV89 wrote:
Xpl2 4000k would be sweet. Let us know how it goes and pics if possible.
So now I’m considering an SST-40 (sliced dome) instead for my SP32A. The current on turbo would be perfect for that, 7.5-8A, what do you guys think?
In one of the SST40 emitter reviews the sliced dome would yield a tint of approx 5000 – 5500 K, and that was for the 7500K, I’ll be using a 6500K so it’s could even be warmer (hopefully not too green though) A dedomed SST40 is said to have a better tint (more uniform) than 2nd generation Cree.
Although I might need to slightly widen the reflector opening as it’s a slightly larger footprint (3.45 × 3.45mm) vs (5.0 × 5.0mm)
I really appreciate the mod ideas presented in this post! I have a working SP32A and it's great so I bought another one. This time I ran into a bad driver so I bought replacement drivers. Now, the only problem is I can't loosen the driver retaining ring because it's glued! Opf!
I heated the head with my soldering iron... didn't work. Then froze it for a few days to try cracking the glue. The brass is soft so other than my needle nose pliers, what can I use to get this out? If it's a no go, I have two drivers to offer someone! Help :/
I really appreciate the mod ideas presented in this post! I have a working SP32A and it’s great so I bought another one. This time I ran into a bad driver so I bought replacement drivers. Now, the only problem is I can’t loosen the driver retaining ring because it’s glued! Opf!
I heated the head with my soldering iron… didn’t work. Then froze it for a few days to try cracking the glue. The brass is soft so other than my needle nose pliers, what can I use to get this out? If it’s a no go, I have two drivers to offer someone! Help :/
Hum, have you tried bow opening pliers? With some force it may help you!
If the driver is already damaged, it won’t hurt, you’ll just have to look the brass ring !!
Heat usually works best to get the glue going.
And don’t be shy with the butane torch.
Unless there are plastic optics in a head, you can heat the outside to some 150°C with no problems.
But, you need to have the tools to screw it open with enough force and without damaging too.
I was thinking about removing the LED, reflector & lens and then 'drill out' (destroy) the driver. I'd then use some curved needle nose pliers to get a better grip on the ring. Wondering if an S2 retaining ring would be a back up part if I ruin the original(?). I think it's time to go buy a torch and bow pliers.
I was thinking about removing the LED, reflector & lens and then ‘drill out’ (destroy) the driver. I’d then use some curved needle nose pliers to get a better grip on the ring. Wondering if an S2 retaining ring would be a back up part if I ruin the original(?). I think it’s time to go buy a torch and bow pliers.
Thank you again!
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite” BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out!
I was thinking about removing the LED, reflector & lens and then ‘drill out’ (destroy) the driver. I’d then use some curved needle nose pliers to get a better grip on the ring. Wondering if an S2 retaining ring would be a back up part if I ruin the original(?). I think it’s time to go buy a torch and bow pliers.
Thank you again!
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite” BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out!
A year and two months later!... I placed the head, MCPCB removed, into a hot pan and that retaining ring still wouldn't budge so I drilled small holes into the ring for better grip with needle nose pliers. Btw, it's righty loosey. Don't know why I had two of these 32As to fail almost immediately but the replacement drivers work. This light now has a LH351D 4000K as whatever happened in the light's failure damaged the XP-L2, too. The hotspot is very defined v's the XP-L2 but output is less ~100 lumens (?). Perhaps it's the new driver but I'll check again with some fresh P26As. I'll post some photos later.
Updated 2019-12-29: Third and final light repair with new driver and 5050 LED. This one gets an SST40, 5000K on DTP MCPCB from KD:
The SST40 beam is less ringy than one may think looking at that older reflector. The other two, especially the Samy, have a tighter hotspot, as one may expect between 3535 and 5050 LEDs.
With a Molicel P26A, the XP-L2 and LH351D draw ~5.75A but the SST40 hits 6.9A!
Even though many new models are now available, I like this older version for its' lower moon and higher turbo.
Having some LH351Ds on hand got me revved up to replace the drivers and maybe realize higher output. So, I measured a healthy, stock SP32A against my repaired light with LED replacement. And loaded with Molicel P26A high discharge cells. These were the results:
Lower... hmm. I ran the test with the Samy LED 3 times, two different batteries, on different days just to confirm measurements. I suppose the replacement driver may have some of the tweaks Sofirn made to the driver and one could be a little lower current at 2 minute step-down.
There has to be something going on... more than the lower output due to 4000K v's 5500K tint, perhaps?
Despite the lower output, the tint 'upgrade' and high CRI, is nice.
My SP32A didn’t have any green but was too cool white for me. It had a tiny bit of blue. However, having the super efficient XP-L2 V6 bin emitter is impressive for a low cost light and it is very bright. It also has the best one button UI besides the Emisar D4 that I have used. I think the only thing missing from the D4 is the hold from off to go to moon light. If they have a more neutral/warm tint option, I will buy another one.
Edit: I contacted Sofirn through Amazon and they let me know that I accidentally swapped the the SP31 tailcap with the button onto the SP32A. Oops my bad =( ….. But it actually worked great on the SP32A, which already had one of the best single button UI. The SP31 with the right tail cap is actually an extremely user friendly two switch flashlight. Sofirn was also very nice to ship me a replacement tail cap eventhough it was my mistake.
And thanks for the link to the SS light,Yupard has a lot of interesting budget lights.
Hi. MascaratumB,
I have now modded mine with a TIR under the glass and an extra O-Ring.
Did a Great Job of blending the awful colours, and diffusing the Hot Spot.
Thanks for the Hints and Tips, we all learn something new from each other on BLF.
Ordered 2 more as on special at Ali Xp.
Cheers,
S-L :-)
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
Hi Splott-Light
Indeed, the stock “beam” is kind of 
but the TIR allows it to get better! If I didn’t have the idea of the triple mod, I would have stayed with the TIR instead of the reflector.
Glad these experiences helped you on your mod as well
It was too much “greenish”!!
If I may ask, what TIR did you use? I used one from another light and it fit perfectly (without the gasket). Did you use TIR + gasket?
If you can tell or show what you used that would be great as other members may benefit from that as well
Thanks again
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I would also like to know this. The reflector height is 15mm, the TIR’s I have are around 11.7mm-12.6mm so they’re too short. Couldn’t find any the right size that were made for XP-L2
Thanks for the review, off to buy one
Thanks mate
And I hope you enjoy it
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Hi Mascaratum B,
Re. TIR Lens.
Got several packs a few years ago in 45 degrees, plus 25 and 10 from FastTech:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1574904
also Simon Mao’s Convoy Store on Ali Xpress.https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LED-lens-for-CREE-XML-XML2-LED-60degree/330416_1577614278.html
I had to strip off the outer white shell as I had problems with the width and didn’t have the Patience to Dremel it!.
Used an extra “O” ring and it fitted under the Glass!
Cheers,
S-L
Edit as found source of purchase at nearly 1 a.m. I Must be Mad!
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
Hi Splott-Light! Thanks for posting the links for the TIRs!
Hum, those seem to be like the Convoy S2+ TIRs, with the white gasket! Funny, I didn’t experimented those before I tried the one I used for a while…
Well, but if they fit well (even with the mods you’ve done) that’s nice
I guess that someday I will try to open the SP32 (not the SP32A) and stick a TIR there as well, to smoothen the beam
Thanks for taking the time to write
And if you are Mad…welcome to the club
Ehehe!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I have the same optics from Fasttech, in 10, 15, 30 and 60 degrees, also from a few years ago.
So I tried to put a 15 degree in and accidentally dedomed the LED
The centering gasket was stuck (glued?) to the bottom of the reflector and I didn’t put any in, I was trying to measure how thick of an o-ring I needed and the sharp legs of the optic dedomed it. It took away some phosphorus so now I have a sick purple beam that looks something like UV.
So soon I will order an XP-L2 V5 4000k to replace it. The 5350-5700K was a bit too cool for me anyhow. I’ve read the XP-L2 5000K is a bit cold compared to others and the 4000k has less tint shift.
A few thing differ from the review:
1. Ramping time: about 3 seconds from lowest to highest (and visa-versa)
2. MCPCB has a smaller silver screw instead of the black one, and the head is smaller than the opening in the board, so the screw wasn’t doing anything! Also the threaded shaft of the screw is too thin so it’s loose in it’s hole!
I may not use a screw with the new MCPCB if the reflector holds it down, otherwise I’ll need to drill a hole in the new board for it and get a larger screw.
Xpl2 4000k would be sweet. Let us know how it goes and pics if possible.
Hi. BeamO,
Sorry to hear of your Modding disaster, I feel for your loss as I quite often “Fix” something to death!
I’m running at about a 1 to 2 ratio of killed to fixed.
2 out of 3 ‘aint Bad, as Meatloaf sang!
I think Martin (MadMax) has a “What did you kill today” thread for us newer Modders.
Hope your new LED is the tint you like.
Shame the SP31’s can’t be as easily opened for modding.
Sofirn also seem to have Modified any of their lights that had suspect heat sinking in a fairly quick time too (beginning in March).
I am loving their lights.
I think Sofirn could be a Force to be Reckoned with if they Play their cards right.
Cheers,
S-L
Ouchyfoot to a New Member: Welcome CJ. Now you have to learn about buying an inexpensive flashlight and modifying it until it either blows up, or starts small fires on the moon…………
Hugh Johnson:
I, too, once lived a tragic and empty life. Then I found [portable] light.
You forgot to mention clothes. I sold most of my clothes to fund my light collection. This is actually fine, since I only go out after dark, and most people can’t see me.
Finally, I got my priorities straight.
Even if it wasn’t tight, the screw will keep the the MCPCB from rotating if the reflector rotates as you tighten it. Still, it would be good if there was no chance of it being shaken loose in the head.
So now I’m considering an SST-40 (sliced dome) instead for my SP32A. The current on turbo would be perfect for that, 7.5-8A, what do you guys think?
In one of the SST40 emitter reviews the sliced dome would yield a tint of approx 5000 – 5500 K, and that was for the 7500K, I’ll be using a 6500K so it’s could even be warmer (hopefully not too green though) A dedomed SST40 is said to have a better tint (more uniform) than 2nd generation Cree.
Although I might need to slightly widen the reflector opening as it’s a slightly larger footprint (3.45 × 3.45mm) vs (5.0 × 5.0mm)
SST40 emitter reviews:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54947
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/58900
Hey guys, Sofirn is working on both a new light in the style of the L6/S70s as well as a new UI.
If you have suggestions on the UI or want to voice your opinion on what is currently suggested, check out this thread.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I really appreciate the mod ideas presented in this post! I have a working SP32A and it's great so I bought another one. This time I ran into a bad driver so I bought replacement drivers. Now, the only problem is I can't loosen the driver retaining ring because it's glued! Opf!
I heated the head with my soldering iron... didn't work. Then froze it for a few days to try cracking the glue. The brass is soft so other than my needle nose pliers, what can I use to get this out? If it's a no go, I have two drivers to offer someone! Help :/
EDC
FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K
Recent/ongoing Mods:
S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 |
SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |
Reviews:
Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K
Hum, have you tried bow opening pliers? With some force it may help you!
If the driver is already damaged, it won’t hurt, you’ll just have to look the brass ring !!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Heat usually works best to get the glue going.
And don’t be shy with the butane torch.
Unless there are plastic optics in a head, you can heat the outside to some 150°C with no problems.
But, you need to have the tools to screw it open with enough force and without damaging too.
I’ll see if i can upload a pic later.
Thank you Mr. M. and Mr. J.!
I was thinking about removing the LED, reflector & lens and then 'drill out' (destroy) the driver. I'd then use some curved needle nose pliers to get a better grip on the ring. Wondering if an S2 retaining ring would be a back up part if I ruin the original(?). I think it's time to go buy a torch and bow pliers.
Thank you again!
EDC
FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K
Recent/ongoing Mods:
S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 |
SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |
Reviews:
Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite”
BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I can’t remember exactly, but I guess the S2 ring is not compatible with the Sofirn tube! You do have some rings on Kaidomain store (or its similar store on AliExpress, just search by brass ring flashlight!)
Still, before trying to destroy, apply some heat and with the pliers, try to twist the ring “tout de suite”
BTW, check if the ring is clockwise or counter-clockwise! I can’t remember and I don’t have the Sofirn with me!
Maybe combining both methods/tools is the best solution
Let us know when you get it out!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
A year and two months later!... I placed the head, MCPCB removed, into a hot pan and that retaining ring still wouldn't budge so I drilled small holes into the ring for better grip with needle nose pliers. Btw, it's righty loosey. Don't know why I had two of these 32As to fail almost immediately but the replacement drivers work. This light now has a LH351D 4000K as whatever happened in the light's failure damaged the XP-L2, too. The hotspot is very defined v's the XP-L2 but output is less ~100 lumens (?). Perhaps it's the new driver but I'll check again with some fresh P26As. I'll post some photos later.
Updated 2019-12-29: Third and final light repair with new driver and 5050 LED. This one gets an SST40, 5000K on DTP MCPCB from KD:
The SST40 beam is less ringy than one may think looking at that older reflector. The other two, especially the Samy, have a tighter hotspot, as one may expect between 3535 and 5050 LEDs.
With a Molicel P26A, the XP-L2 and LH351D draw ~5.75A but the SST40 hits 6.9A!
Even though many new models are now available, I like this older version for its' lower moon and higher turbo.
EDC
FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K
Recent/ongoing Mods:
S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 |
SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |
Reviews:
Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K
Having some LH351Ds on hand got me revved up to replace the drivers and maybe realize higher output. So, I measured a healthy, stock SP32A against my repaired light with LED replacement. And loaded with Molicel P26A high discharge cells. These were the results:
Lower... hmm. I ran the test with the Samy LED 3 times, two different batteries, on different days just to confirm measurements. I suppose the replacement driver may have some of the tweaks Sofirn made to the driver and one could be a little lower current at 2 minute step-down.
There has to be something going on... more than the lower output due to 4000K v's 5500K tint, perhaps?
Despite the lower output, the tint 'upgrade' and high CRI, is nice.
EDC
FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K
Recent/ongoing Mods:
S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 |
SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |
Reviews:
Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K
Having some more fun... repaired and added an SST40 to my third SP32A. Neutral and bright!
EDC
FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K
Recent/ongoing Mods:
S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50 |
SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |
Reviews:
Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K
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