There are very few options for CRI95+ SMD MP LEDs with reasonably priced worldwide shipping.
Actually I have found literally just one offering on Aliexpres, for 2835 LEDs. Everything else seems to have expensive shipping.
I suspect I’m missing something and I spend merely an hour or so on the search. But anyway - this is not something widely and easily available for a reasonable price.
Are midpower leds often used on BLF? Before investing in them I would want to do an inquiry!
I’m planning on a midpower led solution for the BLF lantern, and a few people use them in flashlights with VirEnce boards, but that is probably not a high volume.
Do those Ikea tealights have their own flicker circuits, or is it integrated in the stock LED, in which case you lose the flicker effect when swapping the emitter?
The LED tea lights I have are the latter type, so I’m keeping an eye out for something else.
I finally got the 2300K LEDs and tried them in my rechargeable tealight candles. I absolutely love it, it’s the closest I’ve been to a real candle light, and in a light holder of any kind it looks convincing.
From left: Original monochrome orange 3mm LED, 2300K LED and 3400K LED. Camera @5000K
Here they are with their included diffusers, looks pretty good. Can’t wait to solder all 12 of them and place them around the house.
I still use real candles on my living room table due to the cozyness and smell, but these are a lot safer to use unattended around the house, especially with cats around.
I hope you meant to say “10 in parallel to an AMC7135”. But why do you choose AMC7135 and PWM? :facepalm: The Arduino could be used to sense current over 3x sense resistor paths, precisely tuning a driving MOSFET VGS in each of them for accurate, PWM free linear current control.
No, that’s fine.
For 10 in series you need 32 29 Volts.
For 10 in parallel you only need 3.2 2.9 Volts, like from a single Li-Ion cell.
The AMC7135 will eat up a minimum of 150 mV.
In any case, driving leds in parallel could have some current sharing problems due to Vf differences between emitters. This can be minimized by binning leds with a multimeter, i.e. set them all extended over a table in a room with stable temperature for a little while first (acclimating emitters, they're sensitive to temperature) while laying a multimeter close, then use the multimeter to read and note down every emitter's Vf systematically at least once. Use the results to sort the emitters in Vf packs: 10 lowest, next 10, …, last and highest Vf 10-pack. This would minimize the above problem.