I say, old chap, stop messing around with that poppy milk. For your health's sake!
The nice review surely needs some cleanup.
Yes there is, UF-H2 and UF-H2B
Found some parasitic drain figures in the Other Place.
4.38mA from an Eneloop, 20 days and it should be stone dead.
30 microamps for the H3 - about 9 years
Mine measures at around 75 microamps - or about 4 years.
For the owners of the Manafont version of the UF-H2: do you dare to try a 14500?
I double dare you. ;)
If I owned a 14500, I would try it. Everything I've read seems to suggest that it would work fine.
Many thanks for the excellent, detailed review. (Yeah, I'm way behind and just catching up now.)
I didn't think I needed another headlamp but, apparently, I was wrong. ;) *off to pick up one of the remaining seven $22 H2s*
For $22 pull the trigger! I'd give it 4 or 5 stars for Value at that price.
Once mine arrives i'll toss a 14500 in there :) Can't wait!
How does this feel on your head using it as a headlight? Do you think you can leave it on for a couple hours or more? I'm curious because I've been thinking about a headlamp for fishing since my buddy bought a boat just recently. Also, I'd like one that is almost all flood with 2 or 3 modes but without strobe or sos. Thanks guys.
My light arrived today and as expected I like it though something seems to be wrong with the driver circuit. It ramps as described and remembers the last setting but trying the SOS mode it sends out an "OS" and then stops. I have seen a few faulty SOS modes (most of them spelling STTTS) but this one is really the winner of the uselessness contest. I do not really need or want a SOS mode but there is also a clearly discernible PWM flicker in the lower settings, so I'm not sure whether the driver circuit is working properly.
Well, will write to Jim and see what he thinks about it.
Hmmm, it looks like you're right Huny about the SOS mode, mine just flashed at me:
"SOOOOSOOSOOOS" :bigsmile:
So, yes, it's utterly worthless that mode. I'm surprised about the PWM though, I definitely don't see any.
Same here. I don't mind strobes (heck, I own one of the 8-mode MTE P7s that seem to have mysteriously vanished from DX -- no idea what's up with that) but I don't really find myself needing the SOS mode all that much so I never bothered to check until now. There's no discernible PWM though (protected 14500 TF). No buzzing sound either.
And even though I haven't been able to play with it more than a few minutes last night, I can already tell that I'm definitely going to like this one.
Mine arrived today, I like it. Correctly working SOS, but I don't need it. High - no PWM visible....everything else but high - PWM visible with fast moving objects.... like my old Maratac/ITP A3. I like it .... actually this is my first Ultrafire I really like. I need several tries to hit total high and total low. But a nice pseudo-Zebralight for 24 bucks, it's a steal. I already removed the magnet in the tail... I don't need no credit card eraser ;-)... but it was easy to remove. Thanks to everyone who reviewed it, the longer I look at it the more I like it.
I just got one too... only 4 left at $22.04 (after cash-back) so better hurry if you want one at the great price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250753118559
There is no regular straight flashlight version correct?
Not yet! Let's hope so in the future.
Had a little PM chat with Jim (he is really answering fast!). He understood the problem and offered I could send the light back if it would eventually fail working completely which I think is nice because he did not mention any time limit... ;) He suggested I should upload a video but I think you all know what it would look like.
As it is now I will keep and use it, the PWM flickering is obvious in the lower settings but this light will mainly be used for stationary tasks (when moving I will most likely have it on default Hi or use a different light, also I am looking very hard at the Fenix HL20 ATM), tailcap lockout works great.
One more question: Opening the head it seemed to me that behind the lens sits only the bare emitter held in place by some silicon glue, so should I be worried about heat using it on Hi any extended period of time with NiMHs? How about 14500? My guts tell me I should add some heatsinking capacity before trying LiIon, but is it necessary? (I know that better heat sinking is always a good idea, but this wouldn't be my first light that I had optimized to useless trash)
I also asked Jim if the driver circuit could be ordered seperately because I like the UI very much. Maybe everyone who is interested too can send him a message so he gets an idea how big (or little) the demand would be?