Mine arrived today, I like it. Correctly working SOS, but I don't need it. High - no PWM visible....everything else but high - PWM visible with fast moving objects.... like my old Maratac/ITP A3. I like it .... actually this is my first Ultrafire I really like. I need several tries to hit total high and total low. But a nice pseudo-Zebralight for 24 bucks, it's a steal. I already removed the magnet in the tail... I don't need no credit card eraser ;-)... but it was easy to remove. Thanks to everyone who reviewed it, the longer I look at it the more I like it.
I just got one too... only 4 left at $22.04 (after cash-back) so better hurry if you want one at the great price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250753118559
There is no regular straight flashlight version correct?
Not yet! Let's hope so in the future.
Had a little PM chat with Jim (he is really answering fast!). He understood the problem and offered I could send the light back if it would eventually fail working completely which I think is nice because he did not mention any time limit... ;) He suggested I should upload a video but I think you all know what it would look like.
As it is now I will keep and use it, the PWM flickering is obvious in the lower settings but this light will mainly be used for stationary tasks (when moving I will most likely have it on default Hi or use a different light, also I am looking very hard at the Fenix HL20 ATM), tailcap lockout works great.
One more question: Opening the head it seemed to me that behind the lens sits only the bare emitter held in place by some silicon glue, so should I be worried about heat using it on Hi any extended period of time with NiMHs? How about 14500? My guts tell me I should add some heatsinking capacity before trying LiIon, but is it necessary? (I know that better heat sinking is always a good idea, but this wouldn't be my first light that I had optimized to useless trash)
I also asked Jim if the driver circuit could be ordered seperately because I like the UI very much. Maybe everyone who is interested too can send him a message so he gets an idea how big (or little) the demand would be?
I would like to see if they could build us another custom flashlight with that same driver.
Here is what Jim answered (I said he was quick):
"No problem. Thank you very much for the update information.
It would be very difficult to access their components/accessories instead of finished products. Because nowaday there are many fake UltraFire product in the market now, and the manufacturer became very skeptical and refuse to sell their genuine components in order to avoid mock up product form their competitors.
Therefore, sourcing larger quantity of their components/accessories is not easy now, however if some of you require a small quantity, I might be able to assist.
Best Regards
Jim"
Maybe you could use your Super Administrator powers to negotiate with Jim?
(Back to work now, will check in later)
+1. That would be interesting. The only change I'd like to see is some form of strobe mode (I know, I know) instead of SOS. Strobe modes can at least come in handy for added visibility and, well, I can only speak for myself here but I wasn't planning on getting stranded on a deserted island anytime soon. ;)
I noticed what I think must be a new light on ultrafire-shop - UltraFire H4, it's like the other "H" models but with a reflector, brighter LED and a couple of battery options.
http://www.ultrafire-shop.net/UltraFire_Shop.php?view=productPage&product=90&category=10
Now just to wait until some of the retailers get it so I can see what prices they ask for it...Googleing doesn't show it anywhere other than the linked site as yet.
Manafont has it. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1114
Yeah I just read that thread and came here to delete my post, I blame Google, how dare it not know the "H4" and the "UF-H4" are the same thing :P
I figured I'd post this picture in the review, because you can never have too many comparison photos.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b321/mizjif/lightcomparison.jpg
Left to Right: Ultrafire UF-H3D, Ultrafire UF-H2B, Tank007 E07
VERY impressed with the size of both these Ultrafires. The tank is easily my smallest AA light.
Thanks for that size comparison to the E07, that really does put it in perspective as that light in tiny.
Just how reliable is the Ultrafire UF-H2?
Mine arrived just a week ago. I used it every night for reading in bed, plus it had some demonstration minutes on it, so perhaps about 4 hours of use in all.
Yesterday it slowly got dimmer and dimmer, to the point I had to install a fresh Eneloop. But it refused to turn back on. My milliammeter reads zero on the 200 microamp scale. There was a faint burnt electrical odour when I removed the battery. Presumably a component on the driver board is fried. I haven't tried to disassemble it yet.
I've emailed KD but don't expect a reply any time soon due to the Chinese holidays.
I'm really disappointed because I loved the little guy, small and light, broad uniform beam, nice user interface, perfect for reading in bed.
I haven't found any negative comments concerning it's reliability so I assume mine was 'special'. I hope KD will replace it but even if they don't I'll probably get another.
With a tear in my eye, Angus
Sorry to hear about that, Angus.
I'm rather the opposite of an electronics expert, but it seems strange to me that a part of the driver should have fried if the light was dimming out instead of just quit working.
In what SOC was the original/first battery when you pulled it out? - Was the light ment to dim out by then?
Was it also an Eneloop? (contact/cell size issues?)
My sample is sometimes not turning on after I accidently have entered the OS-mode. Then I have to break the circuit (tailcap-lockout) and wait for a few seconds (3-10) before I screw the tailcap tight. If I do this too early the confirming flash does not appear and the light still refuses to work, if I see the confirming flash everything works fine again. Maybe it's some kind of electronic ghost in the driver (I really don't know how to describe this better). Do you see the short flash when installing the new cell?
Apart from that it's working great on its third battery now (LSD NiMH, still thinking of a way to better heat sinking before trying 14500).
The Q5 is a cool white. It doesn't come in neutral, which is a deal killer for me. $33 is half the price of the Zebralights.
While using my uf-H3, i've noticed a very faint burning smell. I am REALLLY hoping that it doesnt come to the point of failure, as it works just fine now, but I have only put about 2 minutes of use into the light so far :S
My UF-H2 cane with a HUGE scratch over the lens.
On advice of the dealer (helpful guys so I don't want to mention their name) I tried to polish it out, but the artifacts in the beam only became worse.
In the end I had to remove the lens to sand it totally flat and polish it to make it smooth;it is pretty OK now
I have had a good look in the inside; it is a nothing like the outside
Everything inside is covered in thermal glue and the lens/led is hold loosly in place with a very rough piece of (to short) aluminum
Also it is not waterproof because they did not seal the lens
I broke some wires trying to remove the glue and had a very hard time soldering them back (hole of 1cm wide /2cm deep)
The led has almost no thermal path.
More cons are the very blueish tint of the led and the very noticeable PWM
Do I like the light: yeah it is very good looking , has a nice dimming function, great headband
Would I buy it again: No not at the full price
inside after removing gleu and resoldering
I was wondering about the heat sinking in this light, too. Briefly tried a 14500 and tailcap draw in my sample was 0,44 A. Although I am not sure if this is enough to cause a heat issue I thought anything would be better than that little (ugly) piece of aluminium not making proper contact neither to the LED nor to the body.
I'm now in the process of trying to apply some heat sinking to the LED, will upload pics when done.
Received mine from Manafont.. OMG.. this is beautiful..
It works with 14500 and AA. I don't see a lot of difference in brightness between them, I mean, it is brighter with 14500, but no so much. I prefer using NiMH because I like the lower low.
I don't want to dismantle it now, I sure I will break something..