However if that pic was comparing the same emitter in the same model of light, it means the one on the right would be a larger - and therefore very likely more efficient emitter - too.
For example, between my SC64 LE and H600c, the 600c matches the LE in throw at every submode but has a significantly wider hotspot and brighter spill. AFAIK the current draw at each submode is very similar between all current gen Zebras (based on comparing runtimes for different models).
Can anyone w stock nichia single and/ or triple post a couple beam shots? Preferably versus something nice. Would like to see what could’ve been…. and doesn’t rrt03 have secondaries? Any unbiased pics? (Not from the company’s marketing dept)
IYP07 on left, RRT01 on right. Both stock emitters - 219C 4000K 9050 vs 7000? Set to mid mode which is ~40lm on the 07 IIRC, and tried to match it with the RRT01. Wall in the second pic is stark white.
Yeah the R9 is clearly lacking but threw that white wall shot in to show that it’s also going greenish on lower levels. It does clear up a bit with higher output but like contactcr said, the hotspot itself it still more yellow/greenish.
I really appreciate the offer :laughing: but I’m probably planning to sell it since the UI just wasn’t for me and don’t want to mod it before that (I’ve killed cheap lights by being clumsy and am leary of selling only passable mods to someone else). Also to fund another rotary purchase I was finally convinced to take the jump on…
Uh oh… if you haven’t been talked out of it make sure you get hi cri option if your jumping in that deep. Then tell me how much you like (cause i don’t have) Taking loose survey. But we never know, til we know… do we?
Contactor- why do you like the Samsung (lh351d) over the nichia b? If i had a second one ready I’d be asking for it.
Oh I did haha, that run getting low before they switched to 5000K helped make my decision.
Personally the biggest benefit of LH351D/C (and good bins of SST-20) is just being able to safely use them in basically any light, with any driver and having an easy supply. Efficiency isn’t really that much better when sliced and/or used with the minus green filter but there can be some advantage there.
I ended up putting my 2019 w/ 219B sw45k in the WTS section if anyone’s interested. After playing around with the new one I prefer having a forward switch despite the added weight/length.
That makes sense. I love my 219bs but my most used light is a 219c triple in a pflexpro these days.
(I need the output for daytime use at our shop.) To admire red sht, ya i love the high r9s.
One of my fav lights is a 2aa maglight with an xml (i think) in it. Not to rosy, but decisively rosy! But on my arm looks horrible (low r9?)
Im sure you said already but what cct are your preferred lh351s? Where can they be aquired piecemeal (in ones or twos type quantities)?
Thx for the back and forth, very good “light” conversation for after work!
My 2020 version arrived today and I’m not happy. The control ring on my sample feels loose and there’s no decent on either end, and I have to turn quite a bit from all the way left to get any light at all. This is not typical for those who already have one right? Either way I’m retuning this one.
The detent is very minimal and like BurningPlayd0h mentioned there is a lot of dead space at the beginning of the dial especially. Sounds typical based on my sample.
I personally like the smooth/low resistance (your words loose) dial paired with the switch but I can see why some wouldn’t. jon_slider is the grease scientist and could tell you what to use to dial it in. The rest of your issues you are out of luck on.