WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Well, I’ve been searching for a flashlight with looooow lumen levels and “progressive” adaptation!
I’ve done some searchs, and the one that was ideal for me is the Jetbeam RRT01.

However, I’ve seen it was discontinued some “time” ago. I searched online in many stores, but they don’t have them in stock.

Does anyone know any place to buy it at a reasonable price (meaning, at least at its original price, or lower :smiley: )?

I’ve also seen that Zebralights have the low lumens levels, and that the Sunwayman V11R has the “progressive” adaptation. These may be an option in case I can’t find the RRT01 or in case my (future) modes of some lights with “this driver”: FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm - MTN-17DDm (with Crescendo) don’t work!

Thank you in advance! :+1:

Btw, other suggestions to get looooow lumen lights/levels – specially on the “budget” side - are welcome :money_mouth_face:

1 Thank

Just a suggestion but , sometimes if you contact the company (and find someone who is willing to go look for it) they will have a number of the discontinued lights on a shelf stuck back somewhere. I have bought 3 discontinued lights this way in the past but from a different company.
Never know unless you try though right?

I believe the Niteeye Eye 10 is similar to the RRT01

differences mentioned here, go to post #7

this came up in my search, it may have info that interests you

I had a V11R, I do not recommend it at all, because it changes brightness by itself (but most people can’t tell, I used a light meter, which made it really obvious, to me)
read about it and watch the videos I posted in this thread … go to post #255 on page 9

fwiw, ToyKeeper reports the RRT01 has visible flicker on lower levels, I avoid flicker myself, so have not bought myself a NiteEye10
let us know if you do, and share your thoughts.

Other lights with < 1 lumen lows, besides the Zebras, which also have flicker that most people are unaware of (it shows in photos, but most people don’t take photos of their lights), include the Thrunite AAA with a 0.04 lumen low, the oLight i3s with a 0.5 Lumen low, and the L08 and L11c with 0.09 lumen lows… of those, only the L08 and L11c are available with a Nichia, in either AAA or AA… but, they don’t survive dropping, if thats something you tend to do.

my suggestion is to get a. high CRI LED in a Warm Color Temperature, for sublumen levels, because I like warm color temperature and low levels.

tell us more about your application…
for example, the Thrunite low is so low as to to be useless unless you have been sleeping and your brain has not set its white balance to any ambient light.

happy shopping!

I believe the Niteeye Eye 10 is similar to the RRT01

Yep, pretty much a clone of each other. Oh yeh, the JB Purists say they wouldn’t have it or own it (Niteeye 10) because it’s a blatant RIP OFF of the JetBeam…

lmao…btw…I never did throw mine in the trash. :wink:

Come to think of it…you don’t think the Chinese/Asians would rip anybody’s patent design off do ya…? :stuck_out_tongue:

I believe niteeye and jetbeam are the same company, just a different label.

Can you quote the message where she reported this visual flicker because all I can find is pretty positive about the low mode of the RRT01 :

First of all, thanks for your replies folks :wink: I will answer below to each one, but I must also mention that meanwhile I had an offer from a member and I’ll take it! :wink:

Thanks for the suggestion robo819! I didn’t thought about that, I’m honest, but I’ve also seen some complaints about communication with Jetbeam and their after sale “non-caring” policy! But this a good option though, perhaps not this time already, but in other occasions :wink: Thank you!!

Thanks jon_slider, very valuable information indeed!!! :wink: I went through the posts about the Jetbeam/Niteye and I’ll probably prefer the JB, mainly due to the ring and the not so cool tint. If I can, I’ll probably mod it and change the LED.
About the flicker…I just hope it doesn’t annoy me much or I’ll try to adapt it to slightly higher levels!!
About the Sunwayman V11R, I like it, but it doesn’t go so low as the JB and also I’ve seen some issues with the clicky switch. Also, it doesn’t take 18350 batteries, that I’ll probably use in the JB :wink:
BTW, if anyone is interested in the Sunwayman it can be found for about 35€ at AliExpress in 1 or 2 stores (the others raise above the 40€).

Also, thanks for the heads up on the other lights. I’ve read an old post from ToyKeeper where most of them were mentioned. I took a look at almost of them and if I went to one of those, the L11c would probably be my chosen one :slight_smile:

Thanks for the tips once again :wink:


Thanks Streamer and Geuzzz !
I guess it is like Geuzzz says. I’ve seen some equal lights branded with both names, but I don’t think they are rip off or clones; maybe they are the same company making diferente styles of lights with diferente maket targets.
About the Jetbeam RRT01 and the Niteye 10, and as I mentioned above, I’ll go for the RRT01.
That is pretty much what I want/need, and the comments on videos and posts here are much more positive than negative - as Tally-ho pointed above :wink:

Thanks again to all! :+1:
Hope I can help you in the same way :slight_smile:

Never noticed any flicker on mine

Oh boy :person_facepalming: I still don’t have one and you show me this? :heart_eyes:

BTW, with the 3 leds on the lowest “mode” does it get the get the same amount of light than with just 1 led, or does it get much higher?

Honestly it goes from absolute zero to max in the smallest increments, very slowly turning the magnetic ring from off you can set it to a level you would never know was even on unless you have dark adapted eyes.
Couldn’t really show it in pic.
Got a small brightness gain with the triple to about 630lm too.

This is a great light but has no LVP so gotta watch the cell voltage, I modded a purple efest 18350 with a protection circuit for mine.

here are my notes… visible on a scope, or in a photo, is something I track, not just visible by eye… make your own judgment whether circuit flicker matters to you…

My H51w doesn’t have PWM. My L3 L10-219 doesn’t have PWM. But the SC52 does. And while trying other lights, I found that the JETBeam RRT01 has something like PWM, but instead of a square wave at 2% duty cycle, it seems to use a steady sine wave.
Anyway, just wondering if anyone else can confirm that the SC52 has PWM on L1 with a 14500 battery.


the L3 L10-219 and RRT01 have become my most often-used lights, with the SC52 now mostly just sitting on my nightstand for use as a night light or mood light.


I haven’t really used my RRT01 much lately. It’s a sweet little light, but I find that it’s too wide to hold comfortably, I compulsively check and re-check to make sure it’s turned all the way off, and I apparently prefer having known output levels. I use fixed levels to gauge how night-adjusted my eyes are, and to get an idea how long I can expect the battery to last, but the RRT just leaves me wondering.


There is no sign of PWM on either light – both are either current-controlled, or use a frequency that is too high for my oscilloscope to detect.

I did detect some high frequency signal noise on the RRT-01 oscilloscope traces, but this was not visible:

Thank you jon_slider.
Well, then no visible flicker.

Thanks for the complimentary information jon_slider!! :wink:
I can relate to what was said by TK ( checking if it is ON, due to the ring) but I guess I’ll make a good achievement! The light seems very good :slight_smile:

Thank you :wink:

Thank for the input on this CRX, specially the LVP ! Gotta watch that carefully! I won’t - probably - mod batteries, but I’m not so sure about the emitters :smiling_imp:
That triple there… :heart_eyes:

And maybe check in first if you decide to take yours apart, there is a correct procedure, doing it wrong will rip the wires from the driver which is a pain to fix :+1:

That RRT01 is one sweet light. I modded one wayyy back for soneone from XML to XM-L2 U2. I really likes it while I had it here. I got the new Imalent HR20 on a great deal and the dial control ring feels cheap and flimsy - from what I recall the RRT01 was much better made.

Yeah although the ring did have a bit of play but better grease and wrapping some thread in the groove fixed it.

I will, for sure, I’ll probably ask for help! I don’t want to mess things up on it :wink:
Thanks CRX! :+1:

Hum, didn’t knew the HR20! They seem a bit different, though; the Imalent seems to be more related to the Sunwayman v11r (click for on/off, and then control ring for output change).
Thanks for the input on this TomE :wink:

I have the RRT01 and the Niteye 10. They are the same light and interchangeable. Both take the CR123A, 16340’s and 18350’s. Niteye 10 has 11 detent spots the RRT01 is smooth spin. Both have anodized threads for battery lock out. On mine the detent spin is smooth but can be heard, not a problem and keeps the setting in place. I’ve looked for them in a recent CPF thread and this seems to be it.

Thanks for the links texas shooter :wink: Meanwhile I got a deal from a BLF member, but that’s good to know it can be found around there.
I also found the Niteye10 on AliExpress: Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

The RRT0SE is a bit different from the RRT01, as it has the other modes in the ring (I don’t like it that much, I must confess). Also, I guess it doesn’t take 18350s (at least from the specs!).
I went to see some Niteye10 videos and the “clicks” on the control ring are not so nice as the smooth ring on the Jetbeam. Though, if I couldn’t find one, I’d probably take it :wink:

Once again, thanks for your comments and links! :+1: