Yea that is the great thing about andruil. At first I kept if off stepped mode because of that. Now I have it so that the floor is the same in both and use stepped.
I wanted to test a TIR on SC31 Pro but so far the bezel is not budging. I have some lid grip rubber pads that usually do the trick, but not this time. I don’t want to resort to tools that will mar the finish. I also tried heating up the head to 70C by removing thermal limit, in case the heat would help break the glue. Still wouldn’t budge. Any other suggestions? Stupid glue…
The pine board method works well - I removed several bezels using this technique that I couldn't budge with other methods. This light probably could be done with one board and a strap wrench. But I would try the "gloves" first. The gloves worked for me with this light in breaking the blue glue seal. Think I bought mine at Lowes - this is my 2nd pair, first pair lasted a few years:
This one goes back to 2014:
This is a variation used of the pine boards for a GT Micro:
This A6 clip holds the light tight although it's not 'square' to the light and even teeters when clipped to a thick material. Positioning the clip tip on the charging port cover keeps it down and inside the pocket & improves retention. It's better to pull the light away from pocket then slide out v's just sliding it so as not to displace the rubber cover.
I prefer the clip style of a Nitenumen light (although probably not the originator of the design)
Here it is from turbo (I just read your post closer and can run it at top of ramp later). This graph is adjusted to what manufacturer says is the max output:
I haven't adjusted the temperature setting as it came to me. I believe step-down is around 39 degrees Celsius.
Left to right:
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K (?) with KeepPower IMR18350 set to turbo;
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 219C with LADDA AA set to max;
Sofirn C01S SST20 4000K with LADDA AAA set to max.
Left to right:
EagTac T25C2 XM-L U2 CW with EagTac 18650 3400mAh set to max;
Olight i3T with dc-fix and Vapcell INR10440 set to max;
Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K set to turbo;
Manker E02II SST20 4000K with Vapcell INR10440 set to max.
Thanks for sharing more beamshots!
I quess it is SST40 5000K. As far as I know, the SST40 5000K starts at around 4000K in low modes, and becomes colder when you ramp it up. So I think it is fine that in turbo it looks colder.