And wow! Those are lots of different spacers! I’ll check those out. The impatient part of me wasn’t going to wait weeks to get them to solve the problem. But the future me will thank you when I order a bunch and avoid this problem altogether.
I’ve purchased last year copper version of Astrolux C8. It was deep in the drawer until yesterday. I’ve swapped standard BLF Bistro driver and XP-L HI to some more fancy components.
Took L4P 9A driver and Luxeon MZ 3000K bought here and put things together. The whole set creates nice WARM Flashlight. Copper is kind of warm in touch (silky and smooth thread movement). True - heavier than the aluminium, but so much nicer.
Surprisingly Luxeon MZ (4 panel LED) and SMO went together very nicely this time. I like Simon’s new 3030 9mm hole gaskets. They get widened easily and allow to sit reflector deeper which results in more focused beam. In case of MZ it gave not round hotspot but “+” shaped, very unique looking with a functionality of 5050 wide hotspot.
Some pictures below, the housing of copper C8 is eyes pure happiness just by itself Enjoy.
Thanks, I really like the tint ramping feature, I wish there was some better hosts/driver though, it would be great in something like a D4V2, or maybe a fireflies E07 or E12, with E27A for a large CCT range.
Yes it’s 5000K+2700K, I didn’t have any 5700K at the time, with 5700K or even 6000K (if the tint is good enough) it would have been better, estimation with sliced 5700K :
I originally thought I would try it on an AA Tool, but quickly discovered that the reflector places the LED too far from the lens. The aspheric lens only works up close to the LED.
Good, straight file works almost as precision ground flat stone - removes protrusions from the surface and leaves it flat. When the surface is already flat, it just slides back and forth without material removal.
Using sandpaper rolled around such a straight file can give some visible improvements in material removal rate.
What’s the best way to sand down a CU board in thickness evenly?
This comes up often but I almost think it’s easier to source a larger 1mm thick CU board and sand down the diameter instead. I thought the smaller Convoy boards were 1mm but according to their store only the 5050 footprint one is 16*1.0mm
I guess I should not disregard kiriba-ru as if I didn’t see his suggestion about using sandpaper wrapped file. I guess my question is then how to keep it even if that’s the best way. Rotate 1/8 or 1/4 turn for every few passes?