Iām trying to put an attiny85 and Anduril on a qlite driver and am running into a weird problem.
I made a few mods on the driver so the 85 would fit. I got rid of the voltage divider resistors since the 85 gets the voltage right from pin 8. But the battcheck mode in Anduril would read very high and erratic voltage readings. So then I did some creative soldering to emulate the resistor and capacitor filtering that the D4 and D1S FET+1 drivers have, where there is a 4.7ohm resistor between battery pos and the diode, and a capacitor to ground on either side of the diode. This worked and the voltage readings were stable and right on.
I was still in the process of bench testing and getting the ramp table right when the driver stopped working. It would not turn on; only giving a small blink as the button was released. Disconnecting and reconnecting power did not fix it, but letting it sit for several minutes did fix it. However, it keeps happening after a minute or so of playing with/testing the driver.
I donāt think itās anything in the code since the problem happens with unaltered code that works fine in my D4. I also tried a different attiny85 and the same thing happens.
I think my issue is resolved. I had a hunch it was a power issue; that the attiny85 was getting voltage spikes or something causing it malfunction. I was bench testing using a power supply and using a battery, but both using relatively long wires. I decided to just put the driver in my headlamp and see what happens, and it seems to be working with no problems yet. I guess the extra inductance of the long wires led to voltage spikes?
Itās the same kind of led l4p uses in his rgb tails so there is no control over the colours. The low brightness setting isnāt enough to light up the blue led when that colour cycles around but on the bright setting there is no problems.
I wondered if thatās what you did, but they seem to stay in unison. I figured with multiple LEDs theyād end up fading to different colors at different times.
Yeh itās lava lamp style with multiple leds out of sync.
The trick with this fw3a - i didnāt replace LEDs on the board rather I removed the whole board and soldered the control wires directly to a single rgb led. So technically itās floating loose in the head.
I made a pair of S3 quad E17As 21700 flashlights - one with 2700K and the other 5700K. I got the S3 hosts from Kaidomain, the 6 amp drivers from the Convoy Store, and the Nichia E17As from Virence.
This time I used 26AWG Teflon wires (vs 24AWG silicone) which were much easier to solder to the VR16SP4m boards and to curl up into the driver cavities. The effective gauge (Wirebarn) of 2 26AWG wires is 23AWG, so good enough capacity given the 5cm lengths. I super glued the reflector spacers on to the boards to prevent any damage to the delicate E17As. The 2.5mm thick shelves do a great job dispersing heat which can be felt almost immediately when on high. There were some burrs on the shelf holes, but other than that, the hosts with included pocket clips and lanyards are of high quality.
The 21700 size is starting to push it for carrying in my pocket, but still acceptable. I had to frost 1 side of the lenses to remove the donut holes. The resulting beams have noticeable hotspots and the tints and outputs are impressive. So is the extra capacity of the 5,000mAh batteries. Iām torn as to which flashlight I like better, but Iām leaning towards the 5700K despite my tendency for warmer temps.
Here you go. Iāve alway struggled with white wall beamshots since they never look as good as what I actually see, but I understand why people want to see them. Iām sure my next iPhone will be much better, but that may be awhile.
What an awesome build ! Nice work! Love the 21700 host version.
I just picked up my first s3a NW and what I nice host. I did an emitter swap in my first E03 today and it was tough due to the small size but came out good. I was proud of myself and going to post it here until I just saw yours, coincidentally in a similar host LOL. Iāll admire yours and just mention mine . Nice job
I recieved my first e03 this week. Supposed to come in with NW, but accidentally shipped to me in CW. Figured Iād mod it with an extra sst20 high cri. I was surprised when I opened it in and saw a 4040 emitter in the 14mm (?) mcpcb. I shouldāve know but I didnāt, so I threw in an extra sst40 5000k I had around. Itās now brighter then all of my newer 14500 lights. Looks great.
Side note- weirdly I think the ui order changed to L-M-H. Iām pretty sure it was M-L-H when I got it. I donāt know why that wouldāve happened, but itās definitely L-M-H. Also, there is a significant difference between the three modes, and originally M and H were so similar I couldnāt distinguish between the two. Anyway, love the light more now.
Original pic- compared to my NW S3a.
Now, compared to the same NW S3a (this pic was taken today, the āoriginalā comparison was taken days ago, at night - hence the different looking cct. The emitter is the same in all of these pics in the S3a on the right)
E03 on turbo vs S3a on turbo (hard to tell, but e03 is brighter now. Again, this pic taken today during daytime)
