Convoy M2 (NM1 Osram): The Must-have Pocket-rocket Thrower!!

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Rusty Joe
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Convoy M2 (NM1 Osram): The Must-have Pocket-rocket Thrower!!
JaredM
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I carry mine everyday. I have it set up with a forward clicky and rubber cigar grip. I can’t agree with you more on so many points in the video. Most of all, how I think this is the best Convoy, and the only one I consider a must have.

My particular sample I’ve built myself and have continually modified over time. Initially with the CSLNM1 and the 5A Convoy driver and stock lens, I was getting 87kcd or so. Now I’ve changed it up to single mode (driverless) direct drive running the new Osram HHL532 + a UCL lens and threw in a forward clicky and the rubber cigar grip from my G25C2. It’s now making 100kcd at turn on with a full cell. Sits at ~92kcd for a long time before the it starts to fall off with the draining cell. I EDC it without a clip and carry it loose in my pocket.

I’m curious how they got the LED to focus. I would love to see a teardown of your sample. I had to do extensive filing of the reflector lip/flange (large end) so that it would sit low enough. Might be a batch variation or maybe they use a thicker MCPCB? If I build another, I’ll be shimming the MCPCB because filing the reflector is tedious and risky.

If you want know my setup for the forward clicky mod let me know.

chadvone
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Have a M2 with xp-l hi, baked. H17f driver. Love it.

Rusty Joe
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JaredM wrote:
I carry mine everyday. I have it set up with a forward clicky and rubber cigar grip. I can’t agree with you more on so many points in the video. Most of all, how I think this is the best Convoy, and the only one I consider a must have.

My particular sample I’ve built myself and have continually modified over time. Initially with the CSLNM1 and the 5A Convoy driver and stock lens, I was getting 87kcd or so. Now I’ve changed it up to single mode (driverless) direct drive running the new Osram HHL532 and threw in a forward clicky and the rubber cigar grip from my G25C2. I currently use it without a clip and carry it loose in my pocket.

I’m curious how they got the LED to focus. I would love to see a teardown of your sample. I had to do extensive filing of the reflector lip/flange (large end) so that it would sit low enough. Might be a batch variation or maybe they use a thicker MCPCB? If I build another, I’ll be shimming the MCPCB because filing the reflector is tedious and risky.

If you want know my setup for the forward clicky mod let me know.

Awesome. Would love to know. And maybe I should go back to measuring @ 1 meter.

JaredM
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Album link https://imgur.com/a/3M1sA5R



I used flush cutters to remove the nub inside the tailcap cover. Switch w/ pcb is a spare from a V11R, which needed the slightest filing of the pcb’s OD to fit inside the brass ring. Special thing about this switch board is that the PCB is 1.0mm vs the typ 1.5mm. I bought a FC from MTNe and the switch itself measures out identically, so additional filing/sanding of the washer to compensate for that .5mm is possible, though maybe not necessary because when installed the brass ring is countersunk by 0.22mm and I don’t think it interferes with the battery tube if it’s a bit proud.

Last note is that I had to ream the washer ID to fit over the ‘tower’ portion of the switch.

JaredM
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Chadvone, I bought that Doberman from you hoping to utilize it’s driver and UI to displace this M2 from my EDC position, but so far I haven’t built up the courage to crack into it. There is virtually no way to get the reflector out of the Doberman without drilling a hole in the side of the head or maybe getting the driver out first somehow. So for now, this Convoy reigns as ultimate EDC tacticool thrower.

cothyhu77
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Wonder how this would compare with the M21B with the PM1 and 8A driver, which is just 4mm wider at the head. -Seems like they actually use the same reflector too. – edit:Looked at the listing again for the M21B/M1/M2 reflector and the reflector is actually slightly different for the M2.

JaredM
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M1/M21B reflector is a meaningfully larger if you are talking throw numbers. Every mm counts in when dealing with small (<40mm) reflectors. The light overall is meaningfully bigger too though with regard to EDC/pocket friendliness. Below are measurements as I know them.
Bezel : Reflector ID : Est max throw with (1mm²) / (2mm²) Osrams

M1/M21B > 35.6mm : 27.5mm : 119kcd / 105kcd

M2 > 31.6mm : 25.5mm : 101kcd / 89kcd

Artiet59
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Awesome info in this thread. Been doing a Convoy osram shuffle lately. Honestly one of the all around best light I have is Simon’s kindve new tan M21a with cslpm1 and 6 amp driver. That light (although 44mm bezel) crushes most other lights I have for brightness throw combo. And it’s $23. It’s literally best quality and price any light I have. That light is amazing to me. I asked Simon last night to list the L21a with cslpm1 and 6 amp driver, he said he would. I had the L21a with 8 amp and CULPM1 but sold it off to buy a K1. I want to see what the L21a will do with a cslpm1. Also, Simon’s cslpm1 seems better then the ones I got from Hank. Maybe they’re the same.

Sorry I know none of what I just talked about are pocket carry, but Simon’s new combos of throwers are very exciting. Buying two more this week

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

JaredM
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The M21B with the HX and 8A is an attractive setup. PM1 and 6A is a bargain with 80+% of the performance.

I _really _ wish the M2 (plus model maybe?) would get the knurling of the C8+ and 20 or 22mm driver as well. As long as it still easily accepts a forward clicky then I don’t mind if it doesn’t come with one. It’s the perfect size for it’s purpose.

Artiet59
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yes it is, i saw that m21b with culpm1 and 8 amp, may be one of the two i buy. the cslpm1 is a bargain compared to the costs of the culpm1.

i had a hard time justifying the L21a with culpm1 and 8amp when the m21a with cslpm1 and 6amp was so good, easier to carry and half the price. Thats why i’m looking forward to the L21a with cslpm1, hope the throw is noticeably better. also interested in m21c with culpm1 8 amp. good in between size.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

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The ‘C’ has such thick bezel, I’m not sure it’ll be a good tradeoff for the size/weight bump from the ‘A’. I’m going to order a CSLPM1, HX, and SFT-40 when they come in stock and will test all these emitters back to back and see how they truly stack up. So far I have never touched a 2mm² Osram, and am excited about the new domeless Luminus chips. Hoping for near PM1 levels of throw and 10A/2400lm peak output. 4 bond wires feeding the 4mm² class die and a purpose built flat emitter from the makers of the SBT90.2, it should be possible.

zoulas
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Whats the difference between the M21B and the M2? It seems the M21B does not have a clip but has a groove for one. Strange.

Colonel Light
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There’s an M21B with a 90 CRI XHP35 HI in the Convoy Store, if I needed another thrower I might pick that one instead.

ggf31416
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Is the XHP35 HI 4000K version High CRI or is it a separate listing? The CREE datasheet for some reason is not loading for me and Simon is too busy to add that information to the page.

JaredM
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Rusty Joe wrote:

Awesome. Would love to know. And maybe I should go back to measuring @ 1 meter.

I take my measurements at just about 8m indoors through a doorway (helps keep spill reflections down).

JaredM
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Rusty, I feel like we have similar preferences with our throwers. I am curious what you think about my idea >> https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77040

zoulas
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Is there a general discount code for convoy from convoy store?

Colonel Light
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ggf31416 wrote:
Is the XHP35 HI 4000K version High CRI or is it a separate listing? The CREE datasheet for some reason is not loading for me and Simon is too busy to add that information to the page.

Simon Mao wrote:
adam7027 wrote:
Hello Simon,

Does the XHP35 HI 4000K B4-40E have 90 CRI?

not high CRI

Perhaps I was wrong.

Rusty Joe
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JaredM wrote:
Rusty, I feel like we have similar preferences with our throwers. I am curious what you think about my idea >> https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77040

Replied. For sure, I think we do. I just don’t have the patience for messing around with anything but forward clicky MO.

JaredM
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I feel like my idea didn’t convey. If it did, and I’m being dumb, I double apologize.

My idea in that thread is for a new firmware/UI to use for lights with a standard forward clicky.

I’m looking for other FC lovers to weigh in on the concept, and separately for someone to offer help writing the code to achieve such a interface.

I think its time I dive in and learn to write my own code. I’m honestly embarrassed I haven’t done that yet.

buck91
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Colonel Light wrote:
There’s an M21B with a 90 CRI XHP35 HI in the Convoy Store, if I needed another thrower I might pick that one instead.

I used the Convoy 90cri XHP35 in a recent L2B P60 build. Very, very nice tint and color.

zoulas
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Does anyone know if the M2 has the same problem with the M21B where the LED is not centered?

CR888
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I bought an M21A recently as it had the CSLPM1 emitter I like and it’s a brilliant budget thrower. Every bit as good as lights costing 5X+ the price like my Olight warrior X-Turbo. Pity the don’t sell rat tail pressure switches for them but I’m going to make a few up for gun lights.

CR888

JaredM
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So I’ve continued to mod my M2. Spoiler here is it’s my favorite thrower right now and hitting 108kcd cold turn-on 100kcd 30sec.

I’ve perfected the focus, there are zero spill artifacts or rings. The corona is now a symmetric 4 petals with an additional inscribed square. I’m still using the Black Flat S from mouser on a Noctigon XP20. It’s now sitting on top of 0.6mm Cu disc which is absolutely needed to allow the reflector sit close enough to the mcpcb. It’s secured down with pan head screws that allow it to be perfectly centered. The SS bezel was flame colored to remove the last of the peripheral spill artifacts. Lastly, I’m using a thick UCL glass lens from flashlightlens.com. It’s clear as clear can be. Unlike the convoy AR coated lens which is noticeably green and raises the duv, there is no visible tint change whatsoever.

There is no driver and it’s running direct off an LG H26 high drain cell. Springs are bypassed with a copper disc contact soldered on top and tail switch is a forward clicky. Seeing about 5.5A peak. But even with the cell at 3.83V I still recorded 99kcd turn on. Some may question this configuration, but for my purpose, I truly think this ideal. It will virtually never fail and will always turn on to the mode I want and never step down.. not to mention 100% efficiency and costing next to nothing.

Cosmetic and ergo changes have included swapping to FW3A rubber cigar grip rings (two back to back) and I returned to the stock black switch boot since it has thinner, softer walls that reduce the activation pressure to latch the switch.

I’m considering milling/ turning the tailcap to remove the raised portions and expose the switch fully. I don’t like the sunken/recessed design for ergo reasons and I don’t care about tail-standing this particular light.

Overall, I couldn’t recommend this setup enough. I’m considering building a few to sell on here if anyone shows interest.

zoulas
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JaredM wrote:
So I’ve continued to mod my M2. Spoiler here is it’s my favorite thrower right now and hitting 108kcd cold turn-on 100kcd 30sec.

I’ve perfected the focus, there are zero spill artifacts or rings. The corona is now a symmetric 4 petals with an additional inscribed square. I’m still using the Black Flat S from mouser on a Noctigon XP20. It’s now sitting on top of 0.6mm Cu disc which is absolutely needed to allow the reflector sit close enough to the mcpcb. It’s secured down with pan head screws that allow it to be perfectly centered. The SS bezel was flame colored to remove the last of the peripheral spill artifacts. Lastly, I’m using a thick UCL glass lens from flashlightlens.com. It’s clear as clear can be. Unlike the convoy AR coated lens which is noticeably green and raises the duv, there is no visible tint change whatsoever.

There is no driver and it’s running direct off an LG H26 high drain cell. Springs are bypassed with a copper disc contact soldered on top and tail switch is a forward clicky. Seeing about 5.5A peak. But even with the cell at 3.83V I still recorded 99kcd turn on. Some may question this configuration, but for my purpose, I truly think this ideal. It will virtually never fail and will always turn on to the mode I want and never step down.. not to mention 100% efficiency and costing next to nothing.

Cosmetic and ergo changes have included swapping to FW3A rubber cigar grip rings (two back to back) and I returned to the stock black switch boot since it has thinner, softer walls that reduce the activation pressure to latch the switch.

I’m considering milling/ turning the tailcap to remove the raised portions and expose the switch fully. I don’t like the sunken/recessed design for ergo reasons and I don’t care about tail-standing this particular light.

Overall, I couldn’t recommend this setup enough. I’m considering building a few to sell on here if anyone shows interest.

Can you share some more details as to how you perfected the beam? Also I cant figure out where those annoying petals come from. Also I wish Simon would read this as I think he is in denial as to if a problem even exists with these lights.

JaredM
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Simon admitted to the M2s flaws and the need to redesigned the reflector/oring interface. I will dig up the post in his main thread.

The petals are a good sign actually. They come from the corners of the square die. There will never be a perfect corona until we get round die emitters. SBT70 and 319A/B are the only non rectangle emitters I know of.

The key steps to focus this emitter were:
1) the shim under the mcpcb. Ideal thickness of 0.8mm, mine was 0.6 but had to do. Stock lens doesn’t quite get fully compressed with the thinner shim
2) pan head screws to allow freedom to center the mcpcb
3) for the black flat s and my sample reflector, 0.45mm centering ring thickness. White flats are taller by 0.1mm I think, so that difference would need added for that emitter. Inner ring height of at least .7mm to avoid mid-spill ring artifact. (If you don’t like the petals, going 0.05mm thicker or thinner blurred them significantly and didn’t meaningfully reduce the center beam lux)
4) flame coloring the bezel reduced the peripheral ring artifact to negligible levels. The beginning of the blue color / end of bronze color seems least reflective.

zoulas
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ok, thanks

TIFisher
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JaredM wrote:
So I've continued to mod my M2. Spoiler here is it's my favorite thrower right now and hitting 108kcd cold turn-on 100kcd 30sec. ........ Overall, I couldn't recommend this setup enough. I'm considering building a few to sell on here if anyone shows interest.

I'm IN...terested!!

I have one still kicking around in the China postal system somewhere. If you decide to pursue this, would you be accepting lights shipped in for upgrade, or would you base it from a raw purchase? Either way, I would definitely be on board. Thanks. 

JaredM
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Pmd