I have been revisiting some of my past lights. Mostly CR123 and AA lights. I haven’t owned a Zebralight since the SC52. The latest version seams interesting.
Yep, and me. Love the Zebs, SC500w lost and replaced, SC600 lost and replaced with the excellent Mk4. I only lose them because I use them, but the UI, particularly after getting used to the easy Anduril ramping isn’t ideal.
To be honest, if I wasn’t such a hopeless flashaholic and stuck with the one brand I’d just be slapping zoulos on the back and congratulating him on a great choice. :sunglasses:
I have the SC700d and it’s the most efficient compact light I have. You can program it to get as hot as you like and the PID regulation is seamless. Anodizing is one of the best I’ve seen on par with surefire HAIII, dropped it on hard concrete and not even a nick. Not to be confused with chinese HA III which every other flashlight seem to have these days, even spray painted ones.
It doesn’t have any of the fancy features like usb charging or ramping, but once you give it some real use you’ll realize they aren’t really necessary. I carry a spare samsung 50E and never needed to swap the battery mid use. If you can get over the green tint it can become your favorite light.
i think ramping would be nice to have as an option, but i prefer ZL UI for everyday use because it forces me to use premeditated, known output levels. i get a lot of runtime, and it's relatively predictable.
I have 2 Zebralights. A cute little H53c with very cold emitter in it (6300k), and a perfectly sized SC64c LE w/LH351D (nicely warm). The build quality is excellent. And while the SC64c LE is outclassed in brightness by the similar sized FW3A, it is just wonderfully efficient. For the same price, I could’ve gotten an Emisar D4v2 with accessories… But I’d call it apples to oranges.
Mixed feeling about my Zebra. Quite powerful, nice UI, but there’s a problem with the switch compartment. The switch boot itself apparently clicks before the switch is even touched. So, I hear a double click. Repeats after 30 seconds or so. Mysterious. Still working and feeling good otherwise. Guess this is an isolated problem as I’ve never found another report of it.
On my H52 there’s quite a distance between the dome and the switch. I have the feeling it got worse over time, but that might be imagination. Effect is like a two-step button: first the dome makes contact with the switch, then it presses it down. During release you hear the switch first and then another click when the dome separates from the switch.
The switch rubber cover from the D4v2 fits (I think all ZLs use the same size), you can buy them directly from Hank via email. It has a protruding tip inside so on its own it might solve the issue of empty space between the cover and switch, if not then the switch can be resoldered slightly higher.
That said it’s possible to pry the retention ring without damaging the rubber cover, but it sure is better to have a replacement in case of.
No much to see, but now I know it’s the switch. It does touch the boot. When pressing it slightly down, it clicks and stays there for some seconds, then again moves slowly upwards. Pressing it further down, there’s a second click and the light registers the signal.
Maybe a spring is broken that keeps the button under tension. The actual contact spring is ok. Hope it stays that way.