Has anyone estimated or measured the wattage for each output level? For example 1000W for Turbo, etc.
I estimated it used about 1200 watts for max output here.
This is a very hard light to measure current from. You can’t do a typical tail cap current measurement. You can run wires between the battery pack and head, but its difficult and the wires resistance effects the results. You can power the head with a bench power supply, but that will not give accuracy either.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Ya, not easy to find a 1000+W power supply either.
I am thinking it should be FET type of driver in the MS18. Wonder anyone change the FET to lower resistance type. But the battery would already be the limiting factor.
Ya, not easy to find a 1000+W power supply either.
I am thinking it should be FET type of driver in the MS18. Wonder anyone change the FET to lower resistance type. But the battery would already be the limiting factor.
I’m not clear on the driver design because someone mentioned it can do steady output levels on the lower brightness levels. It does use at least 7 (possibly 9) of the Goford G16N03A mosfets (30v 16A). Maybe it is a standard PWMFET type driver?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The steps in this test make me think it’s not the regular FET driver design. Usually a FET has smooth steady drop due to battery voltage dropping.
ZozzV6 wrote:
Started with full battery and the start temp was 21°C
Then in this longer running test you do see a steady output drop as if the batteries are draining. It still has these small steps, though. I don’t know enough about driver design to explain these small steady steps.
ZozzV6 wrote:
MS18 22000 lumen level runtime test with temperature measuring:
I don’t see any inductors in the driver so I don’t think it’s a Boost or Buck design.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Has anyone estimated or measured the wattage for each output level? For example 1000W for Turbo, etc.
I estimated it used about 1200 watts for max output here.
This is a very hard light to measure current from. You can’t do a typical tail cap current measurement. You can run wires between the battery pack and head, but its difficult and the wires resistance effects the results. You can power the head with a bench power supply, but that will not give accuracy either.
I dont know if it´s 1200 Watts but it´s interesting what effect the outputpower has on random stuff.
I found this video on Youtube https://youtu.be/3B3wLvoISFs
Is there currently a more powerful flashlight on the market?
Late to the party, by quite a margin, but I’m in all the same!
My lightbox is calibrated to have no multiplier and have the meter show actual lumens, verified with a set of Maukka’s lights. I also have a 6” adapter that has a 1.292X multiplier. The 40T cells this light is said by Imalent to utilize power my new light to a start value of 75,700 lumens sitting on the rim of the tube. With the adapter, however, it figures out to 58,398. The reduction of the adapter apparently influences the reading.
This light IS amazingly impressive though, to be certain. Pricey, yes. Noisy, yes. Hot, oh for sure! But it’s OMG retraction ability is second to none!
Ok, I got to thinking about how the light fits the light box and made a small change. My light box is a 4” Industrial P trap, there is a 90degree elbow that has a glass shelf the lights typically sit on, but the MS18 is large enough that it is the same size as the sch 80 fitting. This means the light doesn’t sit on the glass but rather 1 3/4” above it. So I cut 3/4” off the top allowing my usual foam to fit flush. This brings the MS18 closer to glass level. And now I get a start reading of 84,300 lumens.
Now I am considering cutting the rest off such that it will be flush with the glass, then this big light will be tested from the same glass level surface as all other lights, including the Maukka calibration lights.
Wonder if that will indeed show the 100,000 lumens advertised?
Edit: Cutting my lumen tube so the glass is flush I got 92,800 lumens. I put a 16 ga. spring bypass in the head and now it shows a cold start, fresh charged, at 95,400 lumens. Drops down into the low 70’s within 23 seconds with a steady drop as it heats up and the cells sag.
Took the MS18 out to the lake, covered 100 yds to the post line beside a road and out to a body of land to over 480 yards. That first hundred yards is intense! What surprised me is the beam visible in the air, a decent parallel column of light that pushes out pleasantly far!
Almost 80 degrees, 21 mph winds gusting to 33, all kinds of stuff blowing across… not a great night for beamshots but interesting all the same.
Ok, I got to thinking about how the light fits the light box and made a small change. My light box is a 4” Industrial P trap, there is a 90degree elbow that has a glass shelf the lights typically sit on, but the MS18 is large enough that it is the same size as the sch 80 fitting. This means the light doesn’t sit on the glass but rather 1 3/4” above it. So I cut 3/4” off the top allowing my usual foam to fit flush. This brings the MS18 closer to glass level. And now I get a start reading of 84,300 lumens.
Now I am considering cutting the rest off such that it will be flush with the glass, then this big light will be tested from the same glass level surface as all other lights, including the Maukka calibration lights.
Wonder if that will indeed show the 100,000 lumens advertised?
Edit: Cutting my lumen tube so the glass is flush I got 92,800 lumens. I put a 16 ga. spring bypass in the head and now it shows a cold start, fresh charged, at 95,400 lumens. Drops down into the low 70’s within 23 seconds with a steady drop as it heats up and the cells sag.
cant it run at fullpower with the fan on before dropping after around 20 seconds ?
Hi all.
I have a R90TS light with very rare use.Today,I tried to turn it on,because I can’t find the manual,and finally I did it.The voltage was 3,79V.After some seconds use,I turn it off,and tried to lock it.
Suddenly,I heard a low noise,and after that,while it is now locked,I see two white lights inside the body of the light, between the switch and the little screen,which I can’t turn off.
1.What should I do please?
2.Can some guy send me the manual please?
Edit: Cutting my lumen tube so the glass is flush I got 92,800 lumens. I put a 16 ga. spring bypass in the head and now it shows a cold start, fresh charged, at 95,400 lumens. Drops down into the low 70’s within 23 seconds with a steady drop as it heats up and the cells sag.
Cant it run at fullpower with the fan on before dropping after around 20 seconds ?
I just saw this question and I’m bored so I figured I’d say something.
The drop in output is not a result of the driver reducing power. Are you assuming it’s dropping power due to getting hot?
The pretty sure the driver is still applying full power. The reduction in output is, like DB said, due to the leds heating up (their efficiency drops as they get hot) and due to the battery voltage dipping or sagging. Less voltage means less output.
Looking at the data sheet, the XPH70.2 drops about 10% of it’s lumens between 25*C and 85*C. So 95,400 lumens goes to 85,860 lumens. I believe they refer to junction temperature so who knows how hot they are actually getting.
Different batteries tend to sag more or less depending on the load on them. You can’t do much to change this without swapping to a different battery or adding more of them. For the least sag under heavy load you want to use low capacity, high discharge cells with a fairly modern chemistry. I forget what cell the MS18 uses, but it’s a 21700 and I think a high discharge one. It’s all built up in a battery pack so you can’t really change them.
So to answer your question, no, you can’t make it run at fullpower with the fan on before dropping after around 20 seconds. It’s physics causing the reduction in output and the fan would not do much in the short 10 seconds or so from when the heat starts warming up the heatsink and when he measures it at about 23 seconds total. Even if the fan was running full blast before you turn on the light, it’s effect is zero on the battery sag and very small on the temperature of the leds. The fan starts having a larger effect the longer it’s on, though. So it does work, just not very effectively at first. It becomes more effective as the temperature difference, Delta, between the ambient temp and the heatsink temp increases.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I have the MS18 and I love it quite a bit. Took it out a few months ago at night in an area where they’re building some houses and it was pitch dark out. Man, putting that thing on turbo was just unreal. Impossible to describe.
So the big question is… is Imalent or anyone else planning a light even more powerful? I mean there is no way that 100,000 is some sort of limit that will never be surpassed. It’s just a matter of time, or maybe some new non-LED technology.
Has anyone estimated or measured the wattage for each output level? For example 1000W for Turbo, etc.
I estimated it used about 1200 watts for max output here.
This is a very hard light to measure current from. You can’t do a typical tail cap current measurement. You can run wires between the battery pack and head, but its difficult and the wires resistance effects the results. You can power the head with a bench power supply, but that will not give accuracy either.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Ya, not easy to find a 1000+W power supply either.
I am thinking it should be FET type of driver in the MS18. Wonder anyone change the FET to lower resistance type. But the battery would already be the limiting factor.
I’m not clear on the driver design because someone mentioned it can do steady output levels on the lower brightness levels. It does use at least 7 (possibly 9) of the Goford G16N03A mosfets (30v 16A). Maybe it is a standard PWM FET type driver?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The steps in this test make me think it’s not the regular FET driver design. Usually a FET has smooth steady drop due to battery voltage dropping.
Then in this longer running test you do see a steady output drop as if the batteries are draining. It still has these small steps, though. I don’t know enough about driver design to explain these small steady steps.
I don’t see any inductors in the driver so I don’t think it’s a Boost or Buck design.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I dont know if it´s 1200 Watts but it´s interesting what effect the outputpower has on random stuff.
I found this video on Youtube
https://youtu.be/3B3wLvoISFs
Is there currently a more powerful flashlight on the market?
Late to the party, by quite a margin, but I’m in all the same!
My lightbox is calibrated to have no multiplier and have the meter show actual lumens, verified with a set of Maukka’s lights. I also have a 6” adapter that has a 1.292X multiplier. The 40T cells this light is said by Imalent to utilize power my new light to a start value of 75,700 lumens sitting on the rim of the tube. With the adapter, however, it figures out to 58,398. The reduction of the adapter apparently influences the reading.
This light IS amazingly impressive though, to be certain. Pricey, yes. Noisy, yes. Hot, oh for sure! But it’s OMG retraction ability is second to none!
Ok, I got to thinking about how the light fits the light box and made a small change. My light box is a 4” Industrial P trap, there is a 90degree elbow that has a glass shelf the lights typically sit on, but the MS18 is large enough that it is the same size as the sch 80 fitting. This means the light doesn’t sit on the glass but rather 1 3/4” above it. So I cut 3/4” off the top allowing my usual foam to fit flush. This brings the MS18 closer to glass level. And now I get a start reading of 84,300 lumens.
Now I am considering cutting the rest off such that it will be flush with the glass, then this big light will be tested from the same glass level surface as all other lights, including the Maukka calibration lights.
Wonder if that will indeed show the 100,000 lumens advertised?
Edit: Cutting my lumen tube so the glass is flush I got 92,800 lumens. I put a 16 ga. spring bypass in the head and now it shows a cold start, fresh charged, at 95,400 lumens. Drops down into the low 70’s within 23 seconds with a steady drop as it heats up and the cells sag.
Took the MS18 out to the lake, covered 100 yds to the post line beside a road and out to a body of land to over 480 yards. That first hundred yards is intense! What surprised me is the beam visible in the air, a decent parallel column of light that pushes out pleasantly far!
Almost 80 degrees, 21 mph winds gusting to 33, all kinds of stuff blowing across… not a great night for beamshots but interesting all the same.
Excellent beamshot! Looks like daylight!
Hi.
I have received a newsletter from Imalent,saying about a NEW R90TS with heatpipe.
Have you any idea of this?
cant it run at fullpower with the fan on before dropping after around 20 seconds ?
...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!
つ ◕_◕ ༽つ
Hi all.
I have a R90TS light with very rare use.Today,I tried to turn it on,because I can’t find the manual,and finally I did it.The voltage was 3,79V.After some seconds use,I turn it off,and tried to lock it.
Suddenly,I heard a low noise,and after that,while it is now locked,I see two white lights inside the body of the light, between the switch and the little screen,which I can’t turn off.
1.What should I do please?
2.Can some guy send me the manual please?
Quick search on Google: https://m4dm4x.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/R90TS%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6.pdf
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
Thank you very much ChibiM,appreciate.
My pleasure Theodore41
The Eneloop 2005-2021 info thread
I just saw this question and I’m bored so I figured I’d say something.
The drop in output is not a result of the driver reducing power. Are you assuming it’s dropping power due to getting hot?
The pretty sure the driver is still applying full power. The reduction in output is, like DB said, due to the leds heating up (their efficiency drops as they get hot) and due to the battery voltage dipping or sagging. Less voltage means less output.
Looking at the data sheet, the XPH70.2 drops about 10% of it’s lumens between 25*C and 85*C. So 95,400 lumens goes to 85,860 lumens. I believe they refer to junction temperature so who knows how hot they are actually getting.
Different batteries tend to sag more or less depending on the load on them. You can’t do much to change this without swapping to a different battery or adding more of them. For the least sag under heavy load you want to use low capacity, high discharge cells with a fairly modern chemistry. I forget what cell the MS18 uses, but it’s a 21700 and I think a high discharge one. It’s all built up in a battery pack so you can’t really change them.
So to answer your question, no, you can’t make it run at fullpower with the fan on before dropping after around 20 seconds. It’s physics causing the reduction in output and the fan would not do much in the short 10 seconds or so from when the heat starts warming up the heatsink and when he measures it at about 23 seconds total. Even if the fan was running full blast before you turn on the light, it’s effect is zero on the battery sag and very small on the temperature of the leds. The fan starts having a larger effect the longer it’s on, though. So it does work, just not very effectively at first. It becomes more effective as the temperature difference, Delta, between the ambient temp and the heatsink temp increases.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It seems I am lucky,the little white lights went off while the flashlights were charged. Very happy.
I have the MS18 and I love it quite a bit. Took it out a few months ago at night in an area where they’re building some houses and it was pitch dark out. Man, putting that thing on turbo was just unreal. Impossible to describe.
So the big question is… is Imalent or anyone else planning a light even more powerful? I mean there is no way that 100,000 is some sort of limit that will never be surpassed. It’s just a matter of time, or maybe some new non-LED technology.
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