I’ve turned my FW1A into a kind of “mule” light but with a lens from a cheappo zoomie flashlight.
I am not using a reflector and I am actually using the FW3A bezel instead of the FW1A (the FW3A’s is shorter so it makes pressure and keeps the lens in place.
The beam is completely round, without hotspot in the center, and it quite nice for close/mid range (max. 30 - 40 m, as it looses throw). I have a Luxeon V2 4000K there, so it is a nice tint although not High CRI.
Something like this, but warmer:
Maybe those “quadtrix” LEDs could be used in the same way
I converted my triple to a single 2+ yrs ago. I’ve gone through many configurations over the years. First was a custom, intermediate length bezel made for using an S21A reflector, then later an odd 20mm TIR. After this, I bought a SS bezel from Neal and have been using Ledil Leila optics. First with sliced SST20w, then the Nichias, and I’ve been back to a domed SST20 4000K. Pretty happy with the current setup. 22kcd with an ~11 degree spot and 95CRI. 8kcd runs indefinitely without hardly getting warm.
Hello guys! I got my warm crees on mcpcb from kaidomain and also found soldering kit. Seems like now I’m ready to swap mcpcb on my fw3a coz it is impossible to find version with warm cree on internet right now.
But could anybody please give me some advice about this process? How can I disassemble a flashlight and not break anything the first time?
do I need to unscrew the driver from the side of the spring using two holes along the edges? Or I can just pull out mcpcb using the holes for fixing the optics? How tight is it there?
Thank you!
Modding the FW3A LEDs is easy, you don’t have to mess with the driver, you only need to access the LEDs board from the top (removing the bezel, lens and optic) and then you’ll see the wires that you need to unsolder.
Make sure you don’t have a battery inside to avoid accidental short-cuts in case you touch both wires.
Got my FW3A 9 days ago , but the UI is kinda confusing. It does not line up with the original post, with the temperature blinky being after the BattCheck. Had a look at the generic Andúril UI but still can’t set thermal limit as the light does not do the “two blinks”.
Am I doing something wrong? I just do 7H from TempCheck then wait for the first blink, then enter the current temperature. The light then just stops flickering and goes to blinking the now calibrated temperature.
Have I made a mistake in getting an “Inferior” light?
(Edit): I bought from Lumintop’s official AliExpress store.
To set the thermal limit you must enter TempCheck and do 7H and keep holding the button for the second blink and then let go. The first blink is for setting the current temp.
Anduril 1 worked as you said, where after entering the current temp the menu would then enter into temp limit setting.
Anduril 2 was changed to make it quicker to get to the specific menu item you are looking for, but it can be confusing if you haven’t used Anduril 2’s menu style before.
I don’t know what I did but now there is a weird flicker pattern when I ramp the light and I cannot reach full brightness. 13H does not work for reset.
Hello! After a long study of the subject, I decided on my first flashlight.
I managed to find an old batch fw3a in polished titanium case (with the original 7+1 driver) (I know that all new models get worse with each batch), also I got mcpcb with nice yellow hi cri leds which I like and swap it by myself.
All this backstory just you to understand how much it hurts me now that my only and long-awaited flashlight is lying in a box for three+ months with couple of 18350 battereis. I like short version and all this time I’m looking for 18350 polished Ti tube for it. Every couple of weeks I send messages to official lumintop ailexpress shop but they answer me the same - “production time is 2-3 weeks”. As I see it is impossible to buy it anywhere online.
So the question is maybe some of you guys have this part and do not use it or know where else I can look for it?
(20201226) and a Golisi S26 for the battery