I’m not sure if my question belong to this thread, but I found no other place.
In my FWAA (TiCu version) the SOS is broken.
Instead of . . . - - - . . ., it only blink with following pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anyone experience the same?
The FWAA has no SOS mode, only beacon.
Well noted, Sir.
I had installed an 18350 tube on my FW3A. I was having unwanted activation problems. The emitter would immediately turn on and start ramping up or start on high and ramp down. No control.
While trying to troubleshoot this, I had figured the tail cap and head weren’t tightened down enough onto the body. As I cranked it with the head off, my forefinger had pressed down on the screw threads. They are seriously sharp. Cut right into my skin, drawing blood. This is really unforgivable. These threads should be squared off. Nasty… just nasty.
The behavior your getting is that of a shorted switch circuit. Unscrew the head and do a continuity check between the inner tube end and the body. It should not be connected unless the button is pressed.
If it checks out, then the new body might be screwing down onto the ring trace on the driver that the inner tube touches. Make sure the driver is centered.
Any body ever figure out how to solve —- No matter where you set the ceiling of the ramp and no matter how you set the temperature —- I always get a ramp down to around 300 lumens ( the Light is Cold ) — then it will gradually work its way back up to 600 lumens—- After it does this little dance you can go to the top of the ramp and the thermal calibration works fine —— I have several of these lights that do this crap — the only one that doesn’t do it — The Original XPL version from the First Batch
I think this is just how the temperature regulation is programmed in the version of Anduril used in the FW3A. If you want to avoid this behavior, you’ll need different firmware with better programming of the temperature regulation.
If you are interested in flashing to better firmware, Check with Toykeeper. Later versions of Anduril or Anduril 2 may have better regulation. I quite like my Emisar D4V2 variable tint which lacks the fast rampdown behavior of my earlier Anduril lights.
Rings seemed to be in place. This FW3A was the immediate successor to the first batch, where Lumintop actually (and smartly) installed a retaining ring in the tail cap. All seems screwed down. I played with it, shifted the tube around and the problem was corrected. Funny thing… I dropped the FW3A on a hard wood floor and it turned on and ramped up to max… Had to do that unscrewing & reseating again. Weird.
That sounds like the issue that’s been driving me crazy with my FW1A. Any mode above level 130, no matter what I do with thermal calibration and thermal limit, ramps down after about 6 seconds. The exception is turbo which works as I expect.
I just tried doing the “dance” chops728 described and it did work for me. Is that how it works for everyone out of the box? This is the first I’ve heard anyone else mention it. Would a different firmware version fix the issue? I’m trying to like this light. I just did the reflector mod and the switch mod will be next, but I’m not happy with the output at level 130 and turbo isn’t always practical.
I can no longer check the battery voltage with 3 clicks, put it into turbo with a double click or lock it with 4 clicks. Is there a solution to these problems?
Are you doing 3 clicks from off
Yes, and after 3 clicks it is still of. That’s, at 1st click it turns on, 2nd click it turns off, 3rd click nothing happens and it’s still off.
Have you removed and reinstalled the head? That combined with making sure the tail is tight before reinstalling the head has always reset any odd behavior that has occured with mine.
Tightening the tail before installing the head, didn’t help.
Damn. No more ideas here. 
Have you tried with a fresh battery?
Your light is probably in muggle mode. Do 6C from off to exit muggle mode, then try the batt check again.
That was it, muggle mode. 6 clicks solved the problem. I accidentally dropped the flashlight from 1 meter and wondered if something had cracked. Luckily it was not. Thank you!
sometimes you can get to pressing the button too quickly, or you think it is a certain mode, but it isn’t
so it goes into some odd mode like muggle, or lockout
wle
Cool — Rayoui beat me to it; was going to suggest the same. The internal battery tube enabling the circuit is a bit finicky. I have an FW3A in 18350 format. Was working just fine. I dropped it on a hardwood floor while off and the light turns on, then rapidly kicks into ramping mode up to turbo. Button control was unresponsive. I had to unscrew both the head & tail to get the tube reseated properly for normal function. Never saw one “fall into muggle mode” like that, but who knows how sensitive is the hardware to jostling. This is why I consider the FW3A an enthusiast flashlight and for an emergency situation, I’d avoid any flashlight with an inner battery tube for connectivity… with the exception of a NovaTac that uses a reliable compression spring.