I’m just trying to get a general idea of which files to use with which led for his lights. I don’t know the difference between fet and nofet for the same light.
TIR optics and aux leds. If you’re happy with your KR1 and don’t miss either of those, you don’t need a DM11. Plus the DM11 is less pocketable and feels… different in the hand.
The appeal of the DM11 to me is primarily the availability of B35AM and XHP35 HI LEDs. If the KR1 had a boost driver option it would indeed make the DM11 all but obsolete practically speaking. KR1 has better performance to size ratio.
The aux LEDs are neat too. I also personally really like the DM11 design and body. The knurling is great in my opinion, really locks the light in the hand.
Many times i have been configuring my dream light (D4v2 with tint ramping) on your site, but many times i did not order.
Now i finally ordered and accidently selected the wrong LED on channel 1 !
I purchased two more DM11s, one with XHP35 HI and another with SFT40. I ordered another throwy optic for the B35AM light I have, but what I got was another floody optic identical to the one I already had… so I can’t test the throwier version.
For all three lights, I tested output and intensity both with the included optics, and the floodier optic that came with the B35AM. I was concerned that my numbers were off on the Nichia light since every other reviewer had lower measurements on turbo, but after testing multiple times with different cells and everything, I consistently got over 1600 lumens. I am wondering if the floodier optic might possibly be increasing the output on my light somehow.
While I don’t have the modified optic for the Nichia, I tried the throwy version in my B35AM light anyways just for fun, and when fully seated, it does indeed have a nasty donut-hole in the center - I didn’t measure the intensity. HOWEVER, I found the optic very difficult to seat into the post holes, and found that when it wasn’t fully seated, I could still screw the bezel down fairly tight, and it produced a very nice clean, tight beam with 24 cd/l and 40kcd total.
In my two DM11 samples (WE & B35AM) I didn’t notice (but didn’t specifically look for) any differences in the optics. What I did notice was that the B35 version had little riser pegs in the optic leg holes in the MCPCB to raise the optic up. That seems to jive with what Lux is saying. There are photos in the emitter & beam section of my review. You can see the little red riser pegs and you can see the installed B35 optic sticking out further than the W1 optic.
Edit: I tried to find a way to copy the image URL’s to put them directly in this post but I can’t figure out how. They’re part of an image comparison and a slideshow in wordpress.
LH351Ds reads quite bit greener than what’s what they’re supposed to according to their tint bin, Hank has Q2 IIRC, I have some Q1 from Convoy and in a beaded (very diffusing) TIR lens they can read between 0.004 and 0.0065, according to the bin they should read between –0.004 and 0.002, those are integrated measurements sure but still that’s a big difference, especially with diffusing optics.
Hopefully the Nichia 519A will be a better option at all CCTs (already the case at 4500K from Bob_mcbob test), and especially at high CCTs to replace the green LH351Ds.