As built the back plate ended up being a little thicker than I wanted. I do not have a thickness planer so I elected to re-saw it from the inside surface, then re-sand that face. The thinner back makes for better interior clearances.
Here is the back with the heat sink assembly fitted…
A chisel was once again used to square up some corners, this time in the body where the back plate is mounted.
Now back to the front side. That gap under the window frame needs a filler piece. I cut some more wenge…
The perf board needed some support to provide its final setback from the padauk window frame. Some thin pieces of wenge were cut and glued inside the body.
On the left of the next shot, which is the top of the body, a narrow strip can be seen added to the interior. To the right in the image, near the lower end of the body are two strips, one on each side.
The perf board sits against the strips…
This seemed like a good time to finish off the body. In preparation for gluing the corners I cut off the exposed finger tips.
I used a small Japanese made, very fine toothed pull saw. The teeth have no set to them. The blade is 0.012” (0.3mm) thick and very flexible. Even though the teeth have no set I use a strip of masking tape as protection just because I want to. After cutting and gluing the fingers the corners were sanded smooth using the bench belt sander. I used CA glue and accelerator.
FYI, the teeth on one side of the saw blade are designed for cross-cutting softwoods, the other side with the smaller, more closely spaced teeth are for cross-cutting hardwoods.
At this point, there were a few glue line imperfections. These were filled with medium-thick CA and hit with the accelerator. Sanding with a 240-grit belt cleaned up the remnants of glue here and there.
…These pieces are ready for further work…
That does it for today. Thanks for checking in.