After a light sanding with 320 grit paper the wood surfaces had a water based clear finish applied. The finish I used is made by Varathane. It is an exterior finish, chosen because it has UV inhibitors. These exotic woods usually darken after a while when exposed to UV light. They also usually darken when exposed to air; oxygen is the culprit. A good clear coat with UV inhibitors drastically slows or stops the darkening. This wenge is different. It can get lighter when exposed to oxygen and UV. This finish is only available in a brush on. Most clear coats do not have the UV inhibitors.
For the final coats I prefer a spray finish as that eliminates any chance of brush marks. I prefer lacquer as it dries fast and does not require sanding between applications.
The clear coat does deepen the colors of the woods a little. Five thin spray coats were applied. Lacquer dries for a re-coat in 30 minutes or less; more like 15 to 20 minutes with the generally low humidity where I am. It is best to let it sit for a day before handling very much.
Time to begin the final assembly. First up is the heat-sink unit. I cut some narrow strips of double sided heat resistant tape.
The heat-sink unit was pressed in place. In the past I have somehow managed to mix up the connections for the bi-color indicator led’s. That is a real pain to unsolder and re-do. This time since I have room to add a perf board pin header P did so in order to use plugin connections. The next image shows a three pin strip ready to be soldered to the charger board. The white wire had a terminal on each end; one to fit one of these pins and the other to connect to a leg of the bi-color led.
Here are the three connector wires hooked up. The led is about to be glued in place. It tests as being wired correctly. The USB-C port was also glued to the back plate.
Next the padauk window frame was fitted with a small piece of the Warlon Washi Shoji paper. It is a remnant from a previous project. It is made in Japan for use in Shoji screens. The paper is laminated with a thin plastic sheet for durability. It is affixed to the shoji frames with a thin double sided tape that has excellent grip.
The tape is 5mm wide. There are a couple of varieties for thinner and thicker papers. The instructions are quite detailed.
Here I have started the installation of the shoji material. After sticking the main strips to the window frame I trimmed the width with an X-Acto knife. The center strips of adhesive tape were trimmed before installation. The paper has been started by stripping off the protective layer of the single end piece of tape. Then the paper was aligned and pressed in place. It has been rolled back to expose the other tape pieces which still have the protective covering in place. If this was a larger frame I would also apply tape to the horizontal center rail.
…With the shoji paper held back the covering was removed from the tape…
The paper was firmly pressed into the tape and this is what it looks like from the front side…
On to the PCB board. It fits inside the box with very little slop. I cut two thin strips of scrap maple to act as retainers for the pcb. I used more of the double sided heat-sink tape to adhere the maple to the sides of the box. If I need to remove the pcb for some reason the maple strips can be pried off using a thin blade. I did not use the shoji tape as it is very difficult to pull loose.
On a suggestion by BLF member YuvalS I added some tape to the ends of the cell to help protect against the tabs cutting through the cell wrapper. I used kapton tape. I soldered needed wires to the tabs on the 18650 Samsung 35E cell…
Here everything is wired up and ready for the back plate to be installed…
The window frame is to be secured to the body of this light with two small pieces of the heat-sink double-stick tape. Test have shown me that this tape will come loose before the shoji tape in case I need to remove the window frame. However, it grabs enough to prevent falling apart on its own.
Several images of the completed and assembled light will be posted soon