I notice that the aux-LED will always turn ON when the main light is ON, no matter if the aux-LED state is in the Off/Low/High/Blinking state.
For instance, use 7 clicks (in Advanced mode) to set the aux-LED to OFF state.
Now if I hold the flashlight to turn it on in Lowest brightness, I notice that the aux-LEDs are also lit up.
(this behavior is actually similar to side button LED of Anduril flashlights, when the side-button light “sort of tracks” the power consumption (Low -> High side button brightness, after crossing the regulated level (usually a blink in the middle of ramping).
(This is unlike the real “RGB aux-LED” behavior such as in the Emisar D4v2, where the aux-LED will turn Off, when the main light is ON)
Oops, sorry, didn’t mean to be the proverbial “turd in the punch bowl”. :person_facepalming:
Judging by the voiced demand, MAO should be very successful sales wise. The TS10 is a wonderful light in any color.
I second this – I will likely directly get the white MAO ts10 (it just looks great, and i held off on getting a ts10 for this).
You will see wear on ‘normal’ anodization as well, that’s just a part of using/carrying a tool. Worry about keeping the light in pristine condition shouldn’t be bigger with a MAO finish imho.
I used the awesome programmer I got from gchart and reflashed both lights successfully!
The Aux now turn off when main LEDs are on
There is LVP on Aux
There are 10x lower lows, now 0.01 Lumens!
This reflashing kit Totally Rocks!
I had saved a custom hex file with all my favorite user configurable settings for TS10. I was able to load all my custom preferences for ceiling, floor, turbo style, memory mode, aux brightness, etc… Soooo Cool!
thanks to all who helped me learn how to reflash Anduril
Also, I have very little experience with electronics, so sorry if this is dumb, but as far as I understand it could be possible to solder the USB TTL and controller directly without an adapter, right?
That is of course not practical for experimentation, but could be enough for a one-off bugfix.
bear in mind the process requires hex file provided by gchart
and also command line scripts, edited to identify your comm port, to ping, backup, and install the hex file
Link still not working, you need to use the insert link button otherwise the forum transforms x into × next to numbers for whatever reason.
Sure soldering wires works, and you don’t even need to solder them, + can be directly connected to the spring with an aligator clip, GNG to GND, which is usually the threads, so alligator clip again, although on the TS10 that’s not the threads but the ring on the PCB. then RX and TX to R, as some people pointed out it works without diode/resistor.
edit : I forgot it’s a low profile button on the TS10, can’t really use an alligator clip.
imo Wurkkos is not a clip manufacturer, they choose clips available from a clip factory. So if we want to suggest a clip, it would be good if it is already available for them to buy and offer with the light.
I agree the clip on the TS10, SP10, and SC21, is not ideal.
Here is an example of an alternative clip, that I had in my clip jar.
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It is a commonly available clip, I dont remember which light it came from, but maybe Wurkkos can find it from their clip supplier. Or maybe someone knows of a more suitable clip, that already exists in the marketplace.
it fits a hat well:
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or for a one way, this clip is also already available, and works really well, it came off a Lumintop EDC05, can be purchased separately…
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one issue with asking Wurkkos to offer a different clip on the TS10, is that the Hat Clip option is an important marketing feature. Asking them to use a one way clip reduces the number of features the light offers, and imo the Hat Clip option IS important. The TS10 is very small and light weight, it is a great candidate for a Hat Clip.
‘is that the Hat Clip option is an important marketing feature’
Interesting question - lets find out (thought not specific to this light) here
It’s nice to have the option for sure if you use a clip, though for some I guess it may make it more bulky for those who use a trouser clip. Personally I’m not fussed either way, but would rather it was not pre installed
A 2-way clip is a nice to have option ONLY if you wear a ball-cap and attach your light to it. If you’re like me and never do this, a 2-way clip is vastly inferior to a 1-way clip, because:
It sticks out further than a 1-way clip making for a less compact light.
The bottom of the clip tends to lack a sufficient lip to slip over a pocket or belt. Result is instead of a simple one-handed operation to clip the light, it now requires two hands: one to hold the light and the other to lift up the clip.
The backbend is unnecessary weight.
The lip of the backbend may get caught on things when pulling the light out of a pocket.
Many 2-way clips, like the one on the TS10 are not deep carry. The ones that are deep carry tend to really stick out too far (example: the optional deep carry clip for the FWAA).
The TS10’s backbend is really small. Some users who actually tried clipping the light to a ball cap reported the backbend was too small to actually fit over the thickness of a cap brim.
Both Choices are good for different purposes. I really like the EDC05 clip for my urban EDC. When I go camping, I like the option to clip to a hat.
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good idea but installing and removing, press on clips will scratch up the anodising… you can see Im using shrink wrap tubing so I can test different clips without damage.
another option:
design the body with the same threads at both ends, then flip the body for bezel up or down carry, without removing the clip.
Even better than press on clips, use a captive clip like the FWAA does (and it has the same threads so the body can be flipped). Then there is no need for a clip groove in the body.