You replied too fast for me. I also added the observation that in your photo, it looks like you may want to be sure you’ve got a good bare metal surface for the ring at the base of the head since that is what I found to be the point of pressure contact when screwed tight to the handle.
It’s sad how little anodizing actually has to be removed for a good contact when I see how much you’ve removed but you really want to give that current a better place to go than the threads and I would just be sure the head ring is shaved bare where it torques against the handle.
I checked again and sure enough, my Magicshine MJ-810E clone is indeed an XML T6 and does have good indexing on the switch. The Ebay vendor I bought it from had a temporary “Sale” price on it for $25.99 shipped or best offer. I got them down to $25 even which you can see in the sale history. I was the Dec 23rd sale at $25. EDIT: I just noticed that to everyone else, it just shows “Accepted”. I offered $22 but they only dropped to $25 on a counter so I accepted.
I see it’s now back up to a whopping $39.99 shipped! Still a pretty darn good deal. Again, the sale history seems to indicate that no one’s bighting lately at $39.99.
It’s interesting to see a CREE T6 light advertised without a single claim of lumen output but their ad might be why it’s not selling. Now that I have it, I know it’s the real deal and even at $39.99 it’s a darn good light. Since all I own are T6 CREE lights now, it was immediate to see it was the real deal when I looked at it and fired it up next to my other lights.
I think before I would consider doing a spring mod on it, I would first just augment with a thin cross-sectioned o-ring under the lens or flat spacer ring on top of the lens to cause a better crush of the rubber lens seal that is supplied with the light. The problem with the lens seal design on that light is that there isn’t much thread travel on the lens retainer plus it’s an inverse thread design compared to the KEYGOS S3 design which I prefer.
I know many don’t like the S3 because of the single battery but I’ve dove the heck out it and never run down even with my crappy gold Ultrafire 4000mAh batteries. For multiple dives I would recommend having freshly charged 18650’s on hand to load between dives. But you DEFINITELY want to replace the lens o-ring on the S3 before diving it.