I wouldn’t be too happy running 5A on an Aluminium mcpcb, it probably won’t harm the emitter but you’re in the region of the output curve where you actually get lower output with increased current.
So you’ll definitely see lots of benefits going to copper pcb.
If you’re up for it, I would definitely recommend doing an emitter swap to some known emitter tint on a copper sinkpad/noctigon.
Edit: And if you want to do a direct driver swap into the stock pill to get rid of blinkies but retain the pseudo direct drive high mode of the East 092.
This is probably the best option.
You have to use a Nanjg 101 4x and stack 12x 7135s onto the back to get close 6A to an XML. You’ll only get that with the right batteries of course.
The nice thing is it drops right in and the retaining ring still fits, which isn’t the case with the 105c or KD 8x 7135 drivers that have components on both sides of the board.
Frankly I would just get this copper pill and not bother. Stacking chips 4 high is a real pain, it’s seriously annoying to do any more than 2 high |(
If you’re going to build tall, running a strand of coppper braid vertically for “reinforcement” is essential. Bridging the gap between the pins is much easier that way.
At least that’s the only way I could pull it off, there’s members here who have been stacking for way longer and probably have some better tips
I just use both sides of the board, stack one on top of all 8 on the Qlite driver for a theoretical 6.08A. Just got through doing this with the MT-G2 in my M8 moments ago, with Samsung 20R cells it’s pulling 5.65A at the tail, didn’t even check to see if the cells are topped off. They should be close if they’re not.
That’s some 3000 lumens on Hi, around 1000 on Med, and 400 on Lo. Approximately.
I also downloaded that pic, opened it up in Photoshop and tried to make those two baskets of copper appear on my desk, didn’t work. Maybe On1 or Topaz will get it. I’ll keep trying, but might wait til they’re threaded and drilled