Damn, now I want to buy this and add my custom ramping driver (just reflashed 105C). Basically would be the same but a press-and-hold would start ramping. Although I would have to make an adapter ring as the stock driver is larger than 17mm :-/
I think there might be enough space just to throw the driver in there and use a wider contact board for the retaining ring portion.
EDIT: Just saw you already mentioned it in your first post.
Looks like some time is already over.. :)
23,56mm wide
11mm tall
Added an R120 resistor on top of the stock resistor which was labeled 25L0....
Measured emitter current after a little resistor mod: 3,68A, 1,25A, 0,11A
(for some reason Im "only" measuring 3,6A at the tail)
I think Ill keep the light like this.. At least for some time.. :)
I’m really tempted to get this light but I hear it’s not very water resistant.
Those are some nice clear pics of that driver!! ;)
I wouldn't go deep diving with it.. But its got O-rings in all the right places and fitment is nice. I have not checked the electronic switch though, which I suspect would be the weak point. The best way is either way to test the light..
There was a little talk about it in the review thread I linked to in OP, but I don't think anyone have tested how it performs underwater..
There are many lights out there with electronic switches which have zero issues with water.
Thanks. :)
Yea the review thread was where I think I read some people say the switch area leaks. I’ll need to look at it again though. This light + custom code/firmware for some ramping or mode setting would be really nice.
I'll let you know if AFIS comes back with anything on those prints... ;)
Says the king of macro shots.. ;)
haha.. These are just simple quick shots. Hand held camera and hand held driver circuit..
Think you are getting OTF with a xml2-u2 and would this stock emitter combo make a good candidate for the gasoline de-trick?
Ah crap, the switch is integrated with the driver. I guess I could remove all of the components of the board and glue a 105C on there, but I assumed it was a switch like on the SRK.
Take this XM-L2 chart, and remove a certain amount for reflector loss, and AR coated lens loss.
I would not de-dome the emitter that came with my light. It was said to be a 1A, but it looked like more like a 1C to me. I can barely rate de-domed 1A as acceptable. I hate tints that reminds me of green-yellowish puke.. I wont be de-doming anything that looks to be above the BBL (see line on ansi chart) unless I can do some tint mixing to fix it. Emitters in other L4s might be better suited... Its also a matter of taste...
great write up! This looks very similar to the Nitecore P16 I won a little while ago, but HUGELY easier to mod (although anything has to be easier than a light that you melt the reflector trying to open). Side switch with a tail on/off switch is an awesome set up, tail switch only just feels awkward now. Or will do, once I fix my P16 
JonnyC - I don’t see why you can’t make a holder for the switch out of a piece of plastic pipe the right size, as long as there’s room for a 105C in there. Congrats on your own firmware too, did you write it from scratch? I keep wanting to work on a e-switch firmware but life and other projects keeps getting in the way.
I basically started with luxdrv and figured out the electronic switch logic. I just haven't had much time to build lights and improve on the program. Was considering a flashing service until PPtk came up with his driver, which sadly must have been shelved.
This light is certainly going to be in my next FT order.
neat, I’ll have to bug you when the time comes to write my own
sorry for the hijack Race86!
Lovely mod thread, thanks for the documentation!
After the resistor mod, the driver is… more efficient?!
I’ll need to get this one as well… 
As long as its related to the L4 or modding (the L4), its all good! :)
If putting a 7135 based driver in there I would just strip the stock driver, except the switch.. A little part of the nanjg needs to sit over the switch. Saying that there is good space in there might have been an exaggeration, but its space..
Thanks. Hope I don't type too much.. :p
No change in efficiency before/after mod. Input amps=output amps on this driver.
The reason why my last tailcap reading were slightly lower than the emitter amps was probably just because of the connection or something. Emitter amps is a more precise way to measure amps despite that there is a little bit of loss in my wires/connections.
Oh boy, you’ve made me struggle. I am going to order one of those good quality “C8 format” lights and I’m struggling in between the XinTD C8 and this Convoy L4. The XinTD seems to have better and more solid overall built (screw-in reflector, driver with retaining ring…) BUT it doesn’t has side switch, while this L4 is only fall short on its water resistivity due to its side switch. What should I do? What should I do?!
EDIT: The driver in the XinTD C8 does not has retaining ring with it, but soldered onto the pill, my bad.
You know the answer....get both 