Think it should. I got a few protected 26650's of similar size, so could try tonight, if I remember (). I only use unprotected cells in one cell lights.
I have that exact cell and it fit, no problem. Tried a TF Flame 26650 and a KeepPower Protected 26650 and the also fit. The KeepPowers have trouble fitting in a J12 in width, but easily fit in the Y3.
No direct experience with any of those, except if the KK Protected one is from RMM/MtnElectronics -- that one seems pretty good. I'd love to try one of those 4500 's though, or at least see a review.
Pros:
+Great UI. H-M-L with mode memory and hidden strobe.
+Electronic side switch- Yes it’s more complex, but ergonomically it adds so much
+Flexible battery options- 1 2 or 3 18650s or 26650s pretty much rules.
Cons:
-Maybe a touch under driven for folks like us. Regulated at about 10W so about 2.5a with one cell and 1.25 with two cells.
-Dry threads
And the biggest con:
-Just too close to being perfect. I know that I’ll try to modify it and ruin it. Maybe I should just order a second one now?
All I want is a measly 40-50% increase in current! Is that so much to ask? /s
I’d love to mess around with those drivers with the STAR firmware, but I can’t give up the multi-cell capability. Any drivers that have a wide range of voltage inputs also don’t have (apparently) support for the e-switch.
I think I’ll have to try a resistor mod. Based on Tom’s experimentation, a resistor mod might not be that useful when there is only 1 cell. I could live with that. I’m thinking I’ll bridge the resistor bank with an R200.
I’ve never soldered surface mount resistors before. Any tips? Do you use a flux pen or something?
Hhhmm, I know Richard (RMM) has a great write-up on doing resistor mods somewhere... I probably don't do it the recommended way. What I do:
dab a little flux on the board resistor being mounted
lay the new resistor on it, hold in place with a tweezer (other fine tipped things will do)
get some solder on the tip - not too much, not too little either, and hold on one end till the underlying solder melts and the solder on the iron flows to the resistor - check carefully you got a good bonded connection
then do the same with the other end, still holding the resistor down
inspect the solder bonds closely - with a loop/magnifier (continuity tests probably don't work too well because the typical DMM's see continuity across these low value resistors anyway)
Other way is to dab some solder onto the ends of the board mounted resistor first before laying the other one down, but for me, it makes it awkward to hold the new resistor down in place.
I got a perfect holster for this light! Actually, got a few of these holsters because they fit sooo many lights, like a HD 2010, T08, J12, J18, etc.....
This one: fasttech.com-1330400-niwalker-holster, and for $4, you can't go wrong. I use them for my J18's because it's much better than the one the light comes with. I'm think'n GarryBunk may have been the one who first pointed this holster out for the HD2010.
I hope we get some comments on which battery is best, Keeppower 4500 protected, or the King Kong 26650 4000 mAh ICR26650 Protected, the EnerPower 26650 4500mAh, or another ?
thats a nice holster. so does the tube from the j18 go through that hole on the bottom of the holster?
do you think a 9x xml head would fit that holster as well?
It's not a perfect fit for the J18's, but it works. The end cap will hang a little on making it past the bottom threads, but it gets past them. Also, you have to force the head down a little to get the flap to catch the Velcro. I only use holsters for carrying the lights to protect them - I don't wear them very often, specially ones this big. It's a heavy gauge material though, and it's length protects the HD2010's and T08' pretty much fully, while the Y3 hangs out just a little.