Fenix E12: 14500, tiny10 FET, XP-G2, 40* TIR. Finally completed!!

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Cereal_killer
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Fenix E12: 14500, tiny10 FET, XP-G2, 40* TIR. Finally completed!!

I’ve had this project in query for awhile, since I got my E12 I loved the form factor but low wasn’t nearly low enough for me nor was high high enough.

My Tiny10’s finally got here yesterday so I went to work building one with a FET instead of 7135’s and programming it with 5 hard levels (so I didnt need to solder stars for moonlight) moonlight is set to 1, the levels go 1, 8, 30, 75 and 255. Turbo has a 20sec step down to 180 so the little XP-E2 doesnt overheat. I also converted the factory MCPCB to have a direct thermal pathway.

The one thing I’m not thrilled about is that it took so much heat to break the locktite free the TIR got a little funny so I’m on a quest to find a replacement reflector that will fit, tried the one from my wife’s old L10 but it was a few mm to small

All factory appearance except for the textured optic
 photo D6B0C437-4866-4E5E-9675-8FA9CE453C42.jpg

 photo 9AB2F6E5-A90A-41DE-BAE8-6F00B414C312.jpg

messed up TIR (the beam is still fine, it just looks a little wierd)
 photo C6F6F725-0DBE-4D0A-9652-FD344198E688.jpg

converted direct bond board
 photo 19C1B3ED-6FA4-4404-8FFD-E2442446DAF1.jpg

 photo 039BDB5A-95E3-4F59-B609-73A317A6A00F.jpg

assembeled pill. The dedome wasnt intentional, it also happened from the heat but because of the TIR it didnt seem to effect the beam any other than to make it a little less cool (a welcome change)
 photo 0028B968-07B5-4E70-B0F7-90B19E064FF1.jpg

 photo 5DD11642-DD1B-46E7-962B-E3E412079840.jpg

 photo 07FF7DCF-3343-4A99-A3A1-B4687A4DA8CE.jpg

 photo 6BFD4275-C194-4AC7-A00D-407233B8B467.jpg

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Edited by: Cereal_killer on 05/13/2014 - 15:16
RaceR86
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Look like you turned it into a really nice light! Smile

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Helios-
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Nice work.
What diameter, height TIR does it need?


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Cereal_killer
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10.5 mm tall, 15mmØ.

I wouldn’t mind if it was ~1mm shorter so I could get a glass lens in front of it for protection, <2months old and this plastic is already scratched to hell from loose pocket EDC.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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LedLink makes 15 × 10.45mm TIR in 25, 40, 60 or 80 deg. LL01CR-OTxxL06-M2 where xx = deg. eg LL01CR-OT80L06-M2. Mouser LL01CR-OT


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WOW…little pocket rocket…very nice!

Is that a 10mm star? Sinkpad makes copper 10mm sinkpads. What ga wire did you use for the center direct copper bond?

I know 10 degree TIR’s make my little UltraFire 602C have a nice tight hotspot, some say over 30 degrees make them way floody…that 25 degree might be what you are after

Cereal_killer
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In a little pocket light like this I prefer floody so I might look into one of the 60* ones. I’m not sure what gauge the wire is, it came out of my scrap pile, it fit almost perfect in a hole drilled with a #51 bit. I’ll pick up a 10mm sinkpad next time I restock but I didnt want to wait, you know how it is. I tried running it with the Al star at the same level but the blue shift was very dramatic after just a few seconds, now it makes it all the way threw the turbo and then continuously on at 180 with no visible shift.

thanks guys

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Awesome. I was the one replying in your E12 disassembly thread. Great to see you’ve managed to mod it. Wow actually, such tiny components.

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shimey wrote:
Awesome. I was the one replying in your E12 disassembly thread. Great to see you’ve managed to mod it. Wow actually, such tiny components.

I was just about to PM you to say thank you, as simple a part of the overall picture as disassembely was it’s actually the part I was most concerned about, I knew I could build the driver, I was worried about taking it half way apart and the pill being stuck.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Cereal_killer
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I’m having a problem with a preflash in moonlight. Is this something a toroid could take care of?

Also I need to unsolder the driver to get to the MCU and change the levels, now that its dark there isn’t much of a difference between 8 and 30, I’m thinking 1,8,75,~150,turbo. Also going to get rid of memory (again in the programming so I dont have to solder stars)

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Where would you stuff a torroid into that little guy?

Still…AWESOME build!

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Nice accuracy with the drill bit. You might need the resistor on the gate to get rid of the preflash but not sure. What output are you getting on high? I think at ~ 1.5A my test board started to get squirrelly with the 2502 but that was with the standard qlite firmware.

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I’m reading 1.552 before the step down but my meter’s had the low battery light on for the last month so I dont trust that number (think its low). I’m out of solder too so I’ll grab a new energizer Li 9v tomorrow when I run to radioshack and get the real numbers after that.

I’m pretty bummed I had to heat it so hot to get it apart, the deformed TIR is really bothering me, otherwise this light would be perfect. Those LEDLink ones might work but I’m still going to look around for a better fit before ordering from mouser and paying $8 shipping on a $2 part, the one in the light is tapered, those ones have straight sides so not sure how well they’d work. Honestly I’d prefer to find a reflector for it even if that means buying a new light to harvest it from.

Oh and I used a brand spankin’ new bit but did it with a hand drill!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Mouser shipping costs always bothers me too.

The white sides you see in pictures is just a holder. You need to remove it from the holder to fit 15mm. TIR itself is 15mm, holder is 17mm.
Product page. Datasheet

Better diagrams are in the datasheet.


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Cereal_killer
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Helios- wrote:
Mouser shipping costs always bothers me too.

The white sides you see in pictures is just a holder. You need to remove it from the holder to fit 15mm. TIR itself is 15mm, holder is 17mm.
Product page. Datasheet

Better diagrams are in the datasheet.

Ah, well thats looking like a better option then, especially if I could fit a glass lens in front of it to protect it. I’ll just have to find some other crap I can add to the order, I was willing to use the reflector out of a $25 light, had it fit after all, so $10 isnt that bad really, its just the principal behind it, shipping costs 500% what the part costs.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

djozz
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Nice little rocket! I like the mods dirty on the inside, beautiful on the outside. I hope you will find a new TIR for it.

Question: I used one of those big FET's for a mod with the Tiny10, where can I find these small ones in small amounts and with free shipping to the EU?

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I’m using irlm 2502’s (these are the ones in the BLF15DD digikey shopping cart) but I’m not sure where, other than digikey, you might be able to get them, maybe eBay.uk.

You can find these little baby FET’s on almost everything, before I had my digikey order I pulled 5 of them off one charger/protection board from a laptop battery pack I pulled the cells from. Also found a few on the stock fenix driver (different PN’s but I bet they’d work) they seem to be a very common component.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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djozz wrote:

Nice little rocket! I like the mods dirty on the inside, beautiful on the outside. I hope you will find a new TIR for it.

Question: I used one of those big FET’s for a mod with the Tiny10, where can I find these small ones in small amounts and with free shipping to the EU?

Go to the OSHPark thread…there is a bill of material for the BLF-15DD, the MOSFET is listed there…might be able to find the equivalent at Newark or Farnell

Digikey part no:IRLML2502PBFCT-ND MOSFET /////N-CH 20V 4.2A SOT-23

Found em at Farnell

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Thanks, I'll have a look in my spare driver box, there might just be 1 or 2 of them on one of them.

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I think I got mine from eBay. If you want I can order more and send them in a mailer like the boards. I think it’s only $1.65 for the mailer and postage and there’s a listing for 10 for $2.35 w/ free shipping. Might be 2 weeks to me then 2 more to you though so check your box first.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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Been working on this more today, got the code modified to default to no memory and moon enabled. This seemed to take care of the preflash (think its cause the lowest level is the drivers true moon mode, not just the first mode set to 1) I also got the tiny10 mounted MCU up so its easier to flash.

 photo A4FA1AC6-9FCA-4FE9-8B59-E54D68C3D933.jpg

How are you guys flashing your Tiny10’s? By removing the cap? I did that the first time but now I’ve modded my SOIC clip by filing down the corner a little so it can make contact. I also read that Comfy is running fast PWM on a BLF15DD with a baby FET, my driver is wining quite a bit, think switching could quiet it down any?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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You need to increase PWM freq, fast/phase-correct doesn’t really matter. IIRC comfy has now tested different frequencies and fast/phase-correct on several or all of the BLF/Oshpark DD drivers. They all operate.

I found HarleyQuin’s post here helpful on the topic of PWM freq. You want 19kHz PWM to minimize whine. Do you know what frequency PWM you are using currently? If not post what specific firmware you are running and what you use to flash it (such as the batch file you use or the string you use to call avrdude).

Good looking project so far!

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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Just switch the 0x21 back to 0x23 and you'll be back at ~19K PWM.  

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EDIT this looks a little better but it still deletes all the new row’s [return key’s] out of the cope/pasted code text.

This is the batch file I’m using:

Quote:
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -Uflash:w:%1.hex:a -Ulfuse:w:0×75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m

And this is the code I’m using (modded from STAR v1.1 on-time, off the top of my head changes include the number and level of modes, 0×21, changing memory to default off, changing moon to default on): See page two for properly formatted code

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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RMM is right, just switching back from phase-correct to fast will increase the freq appropriately. That’s the easiest/best way to get what you want.

change
TCCR0A = 0×21;
to
TCCR0A = 0×23;

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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With help from WarHawk I figured out it doesnt reset back to moonlight if it isnt left in the last level for atleast .5, sec so for it to remember to NOT have memory it has to be on for atleast 2WDT ticks, strange but I can deal with that now that I know whats going on, when its not on for more than .5 sec it pretty much acts like next mode memory, if I cant end up fixing that I could probably get use to it. The only other [possible] code issue is the preflash on moonlight. when first turning on in moonlight there is no preflash but when cycling threw the modes going from Turbo (or 185 if after the 37 tic [~20sec] step down) it does preflash.

Thats a direct copy/paste but its so hard to read, how do I make it look like code?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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I suggest switching the “Input Format” on your post to Advanced Post Editor before you start, then copy/paste into that. You might want to put it in a “quote” too.

I think switching from the ontime firmware to the offtime firmware will help with the memory situation. I just tried ontime last night with memory disabled and I personally thought it sucked to use. You’ll need to add a small capacitor to the board for that to work, 1uF is specced but in the STAR firmware thread someone (Harleyquin?) mentioned that they’d used a 1nF with good results as well.

Not sure on the preflash.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Cereal_killer
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EDIT

wight wrote:
RMM is right, just switching back from phase-correct to fast will increase the freq appropriately. That’s the easiest/best way to get what you want.

change
TCCR0A = 0×21;
to
TCCR0A = 0×23;

And what issues would that fix? the wine? what about the preflash or strange non-memory?

Not trying to be a dick, it sorta’ comes off like it but its a serious ??

Thanks all of you so far, its running a lot better than this time yesterday thats for sure.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Cereal_killer
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Im having posting/editing posts issues tonight…

I’ll try it and see what happens (also try the posting thing). I have some of the cap’s on the way. So you use off-time with no mem and it works perfect? not as I described?
thx

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

wight
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I don’t use it, but it should fix the issue you described. I’d be happy to test it out for you and make sure it works as expected, but it probably wouldn’t fit the timeline you want to work on this project on (eg it wouldn’t be tonight).

The 0×21 to 0×23 switch will change PWM modes which happens to double the freq which should help/fix the whine.

The preflash is a mystery to me. Can you give a blow-by-blow account of an example where the preflash happens and an example where it doesn’t happen?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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wight wrote:
I. The preflash is a mystery to me. Can you give a blow-by-blow account of an example where the preflash happens and an example where it doesn't happen?

 

better yet a couple videos. It's much more pronounced IRL. 

 

http://youtu.be/qOJkKtBJph0

http://youtu.be/WqHW6zOYgbQ

 

*EDIT* went all out, have a 10mm XP sinkPAD, an XP-G2 R5 3C and a LEDLink 40* TIR incoming, going to lengthen the turbo timer when I'm making the rest of the changes while I'm at it.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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