This worked, search for ultrafire ceee xm-l, and brought up 1 light, then when I clicked on the light I got the error message again. I am signed in to my account on their web page. I give up.
I know it has a 20mm star, the reflector centering ring is quite thick so I don’t think a noctigon/sinkpad thickness will be an issue if you either use a thinner centering ring or thin it down a bit…
I seem to have lots of thicker ones. I think that the aluminum stars I have from Illumination Supply and SinkPAD are all thicker than my copper Noctigons, but on the other hand the inexpensive Chinese stars are probably thinner than those. I have no idea what’s in the F13 head, I haven’t removed the MCPCB yet. My bad
As per our offline discussions which you affirmed, I will wait only for a max of 40 days after my payment was placed. If I don’t have my order by that date, I will file for PP dispute already.
I bought quite a few of these in two shipments. The second shipment has arrived. In it there were two different drivers. Some had no mode memory, always starting on high after being off for about five or six seconds with tailcap measurements of 2, 1.45 and .75 amps. The other had next mode memory with tailcap measurements of 2, .75 and .3 amps. The pencil trick worked to get this light to always start on high after about 5 seconds.
Did the ones with the different drivers also have different labelling? Wasn’t the original one for this GB a “SkyFire” or something, and then they switched to “Ultrafire” (now)? Maybe that was the reason for the driver differences in yours?
is the driver ring reverse threaded? I cannot for the life of me get mine to come loose
Got it…not reverse threaded…took alot of elbow grease and some very choice words and threatening to get the big hammer
Fixed that supid next mode memory…upgrading soon, going to put a XM-L2 on sinkpad, not sure if I want to put a nanjg in, or resistor mod this driver, solder braid upgrade, thicker wires (the basic upgrades) to see how well it does, 1.7~A high stock…bleh
ON the driver there is a capacitor right next to the MCU (controller chip), you take a #2 pencil and scrub it across the top from one side to the next, the graphite creates a high resistance shunt across the resistor, when you turn off the light, it drains the capacitor down resetting the MCU back to default (hi mode) next time it comes on, this way when you turn off the light, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it always comes on hi, you can actually go hi>mid>lo>off back to hi>mid>lo without ever going to the epileptic seizure flash modes, but the modes are still there if you need them.
otherwise with next mode memory it goes hi>off>mid>off>lo>off>strobe(epileptic seizure)>off>sos(epileptic seizure)>off back to hi
Received my 2 in the mail today. Both worked fine, thought there was something wrong with the lens but it was plastic stick on protection. When I removed the body and tailcap they threaded right onto my 3c DST which was a nice surprise. Was wanting to do that conversion for awhile, was a nice bonus.