The switch in the tail cap is a brilliant idea, one of those that makes you say “Hmmm, why didn’t I think of that?”
Took about an hour to do what with getting everything out and putting everything away, and it’s just perfect! Positive lockout to keep the e-switch from draining the cells. The e-switch still works as expected and this is the icing on the cake.
I thought I am the only one getting this “moonlight mode” when it is off, so is it really normal? I did the same thing like you by bridging the sense resistor and I couldn’t get rid of this annoying “moonlight mode” when it is supposed to be completely off! I reflowed the LED a few times (wasted a few drops of my AS5 as well ) and even have changed it into a new XM-L2 just hoping to solve this issue but I still failed. It could be my soldering skill is poor but I have inspected every connection as carefully as I could but I didn’t notice anything strange though.
I see it as an issue… I even have created a thread here looking for opinions. Does anyone else have this issue? I couldn’t find other people experiencing this yet.
Best mod I can think of for the Corui, and very smooth work on the tail switch, well thought out! And you would think that the 32mm Noctigon should be wide enough to provide clearance for any reflector, but no.., LOL
bibihang, if I remember correctly there was some talk about some drivers not liking the sense resistor completely bridged in that it messed with the PWM to the extent that it wouldn’t completely shut off, not recognizing the off level through the e-switch. There needs to be some resistance for the driver to recognize off.
Threads like this annoy me though I ordered my Courui 10 days ago and its not fair that everyone else is playing with their lights and I dont have one…
I have BLF17DD’s piggybacked into both of mine. The MT-G2 one is using 6 Efest Purple 18350’s, that one has the switch pcb raised to allow room for the double cells in each bay, so it won’t take a switch.
I’ve got the reversing UI on both of em such that Turbo can be reached from off as easy as Moon. Being able to turn it off from the tail on my XM-L2 version is very nice, really have no clue why I didn’t think of that…
I used an UCLp from flashlightlens.com, the best AR lens in the business. Their UCL glass lens is hands down the highest transmission lens out there, but not available in the size for the Courui D01. Crazy as it sounds, there’s a massive jump in throw for the money spent. From 341.5Kcd to 369.25Kcd by swapping the lens.
97 yds to the red oil drum. Taken with my standard settings from the Canon G1X…ISO1600, f/5.6, 1/2 second exp., manual mode, manual focus, 2 second timer.
same settings, except f/5.8 and 610 yards to the white barn… if you click on the picture and look at it full size, the trees behind the barn are 744 yds away. Not sure if the white metal building at 968 yds shows through the trees in this shot. (slightly right of the barn and of course behind the trees, only slightly visible as some white above the barn and just left of the flag pole. This is more visible in the winter when there’s no leaves on the trees.)
Excellent work and information FmC. Think you may eventually take this baby up to 5+ amps? You certainly have everything in place (32mm copper DTP mcpcb, etc).
FmC, I must be missing something then, thank you for pointing out.
DBCstm, thanks for your explanation. I did read that by bridging the sense resistor just like that could affect the modes and the on/off operation, but I thought that is just for buck driver. I don’t think Courui in this case is having buck/boost driver since it is three batteries in parallel powering a single XM-L2, though the big torroid on it still makes me wonder what is it for actually.
Thanks Dale, I might have to check out those lenses for a few of my lights…
@ ImA4Wheelr, It’s gotta be close to 5a to the LED as it is, which is pretty much in the sweet spot for XP-G2 according to djozz’s testing work. & I like the basic UI in a light of this type, with the stock driver.
I got some XP-L’s in the mail today, so I think one of those will end up in my other Courui when it arrives, along with a BLF DD driver for a Big Brother version
Your mods look perfect for someone looking to make a true budget thrower.
Does anyone know if replacing the R200 with an R10 would provide enough resistance so no “moonlight problem”
but still give close to maximum output with the stock driver?
It is probably going to be trial & error to find the lowest resistor value that maintains an ‘off’ mode. Maybe someone will find out what that value is & post.