I’ve just skimmed your thread and I don’t see Tom E in there mentioning a spike. I’ll chime in with my thoughts in that thread though.
Wight I think pretty much answered all the questions (I’m really sorry I dont have more time to post, I have literally been so busy the last month now the only time I have to answer emails is sitting on the can lol).
The 0603 pad’s are the correct size for 0805 parts, I use those common part’s from the sparkfun library and they are extremely oversized. I do all my boards like this and use all 0805 parts. As for the D2PAK (the FET) part, thats my own .lbr part, it is the correct width and only slightly taller (to allow space to solder wire’s above the tab.
About the “stars”, using the negative circle of mask is a new way for me, I had been using a 1mm thick line to expose 2 edges to jumper, I dont have any of these yet (and I dont use stars anyway, I just change my code as desired) but I’m willing to bet they work. As previously explained (and then mentioned by wight) the way oshpark render’s the mask is by adding another layer of gold color, it’s is the exact opposite of what really happens in fab- anywhere you see gold color in the render there will actually be nothing, mask is applied everywhere EXCEPT those spots.
The SW+ via is on pin3 (star3) cause thats what I change my code to use, I had forgot I changed my code when I did that [sorry], its a simple pin assignment swap to change your’s (or you can continue to solder direct to the MCU’s leg for pin 2 or whatever stock STAR FW uses). I prefer the via cause it makes for a physically stronger connection as well as allowing hookup from the bottom in a piggyback application.
Again sorry I cant sit around and answer questions and “hang out” with you guy’s all day (you know I love ya all) but right now flashlight’s are literally supporting my family of 5, I’m working on them about 10-12 hours every day (and its been like that since school started back up for my kid’s in August), I just dont have much of any free time and when I do I dont want to spend it sitting in front of my computer talking about flashlights lol…
Hehe good deal Cereal :)… I might shoot some guys over your way if I can’t figure out the RGB thing
Wight it’s mentioned in the op of this thread. I didn’t know what it means either but he mentioned a spike, maybe to the mcu I’m thinking, but that could in turn maybe end up at the gate from the pwm pin? I dunno I’m still wet behind the ears
Thanks fellfromtree, I see it now. I’m ready to be corrected, but I think that was simply Tom E misunderstanding the exact function of that resistor.
What RGB stuff are you working on? Tho I wont be releasing my code open source I do have a much more simple open source RGB project I’m working on (does not allow ramping of the individual colors, that will be staying proprietary, I am selling my driver’s however, I’ve just created a sales thread for them the other day) It will simply be a few white modes, then a fixed brightness level for the individual colors (can be changed in the code, but not changed from the working light) then a RGB (fixed brightness) mode (and maybe a strobe, if I feel like it)
Probably best to PM me, already a lot going on in this thread (also note, the open source RGB stuff is very low on my priority list, probably be a few months)
Oops, updated the OP with: reduce a voltage spike flatten the peak. Think that makes betters sense? It's what I meant , at least that what the o-scope graphs look like.
Tom E, which specific scope images are you thinking of? As I insinuated it’s possible that I’m missing something here.
On the v1.0 boards, is there any other place other than the labelled pads that can be used for emitter +?
Edit: I mean on the emitter side of the driver…
On the “BLF17DD V1.0” board there is a copper pour with 4 vias which connects directly to BAT. The middle half of that pour is exposed, but the entire pour can be used if you scrape off the purple resist. Besides this small copper pour there is no other area which may be used for LED.
If you’ve torn off the copper I suppose you could drill a hole clear through the board. You’d then scrape an area on the bottom side and solder your wire there.
I have done what wight suggests before, drilled a hole through the board and ran a wire from the top of the spring and directly to the emitter.
Yeah cereal lemme try my ham fist methods first. I’d hate to take up your time with my issues. I was actually thinking like 2 dd boards stacked and each works with each other through programming the tiny13a to get the different modes which will be red and uv. The pill in the Y3 will be big enough to do this. Thanks for looking out though I really appreciate it. If I have questions, trust me I’ll be in here asking!
Thanks for all your help Dan… appreciate it
EDIT Hey I was thinking today… What if you just stacked one of these on top of the yezl y3 buck driver for modes? You could cut the switch pin to the mcu on the buck, bypass the fet so it’s always high while still having the voltage regulation intact. Then run the LED + on the buck to the emitter. Run B+ and GND to both boards. Run the LED - on the BLFDD to the emitter. Programmable! 2 cells… I know the buck can run 3 but not sure if the zener mod can handle that.
Also let’s say I wanted to run multi emitters. Can I hook a fet up to PB0 OCR0A and connect a free floating FET there for a second pwm out. I noticed it’s not doing anything on the board itself. So I could in theory run a multi colored emitter as a programmable buck up to 6a
I have done what wight suggests before, drilled a hole through the board and ran a wire from the top of the spring and directly to the emitter.
Thanks, DBCstm. I’ll keep that in mind next time.
Jim
New version of the 17dd_v3.1 released. A quick overview of the changes-
- A real GND plane (on both sides) this means no more pulling off the thin gnd rings, it also means you can scrape a little mask and have a GND point almost anywhere on the board.
- GND plane has “thermal’s” on the lower power components (for easier soldering) but is solid for the FET’s source leg and the batt nagative input via to supply the necessary higher current (this was not easy to make)
- A dedicated zener pad, no more stacking (simply leave unpopulated for 4.2v builds)
- C1 is in the proper position to eliminate “boost circuit” issue so no more gate resistors
- “Star’s” are easier to short with just solder
- Dedicated batt- input via (used for piggybacking)
- Has a set of 1.1mm LED lead via’s (sized for 20AWG wire, even 18 will fit), this makes multi-emitter builds less of a pain.
- Dedicated SW+ input via on pin3 for MOM FW’s
- Batt+ spring pad is 8mm but only 5mm exposed (the size of standard 105C springs and those brass buttons), scrape to expose the full 8mm
Note this is not a mod of the V2, this was a total redesign
https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/uploads/project/top_image/eD4kRUiO/i.png https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/uploads/project/bottom_image/eD4kRUiO/i.png
Hey Cereal_killer, I just had a chance to check my 22mm 7135 driver and I noticed that both your boards and mine use 1.1mm vias. According to me (post #38) I was unable to get 20AWG to fit through my 1.1mm vias, much less 18AWG. What gives? Do I just suck or do you have a secret technique?
Hey Cereal_killer, I just had a chance to check my 22mm 7135 driver and I noticed that both your boards and mine use 1.1mm vias. According to me (post #38) I was unable to get 20AWG to fit through my 1.1mm vias, much less 18AWG. What gives? Do I just suck or do you have a secret technique?
I was trying to upload a pic but apparently photobucket mobile doesnt work with IOS 8.1 (yet another reason I wish I wouldnt have updated).
Anyway I’m able to get 18AWG in threw 1.1’s, the way I do it is- strip it so its nice and clean, take the stripped end in my fingers and twist it as tightly as possible, flux it, touch it to a hot iron so just the smallest bit of solder goes into it to hold the strands in place (do not let even the smallest blob build up). Then I get the board, press it straight down on the via, re-apply the iron (from the top of the board) and it takes about a second to heat up and slide into the via, I usually have a handful of straggler strands that dont make it (usually under a dozen if you kept it nice and tight when you fluxed) and I simply cut those of with an exacto knife.
Edit:
Ok so here it is inserted threw the via but before the loose strands are trimmed off, you can see on this one I only had a couple. After I trim them I touch the iron back to it to make it perfect. Note that “20” you see on the wire is where its marked “200*”, this is 18AWG silicone 120 strand.
Interesting stuff, thanks C_k! I’ll definitely give the big wire another try.
Love the new design…the copper pour using the polygon is VERY nice!
Revisions just kept getting better and better!
Great job CK!!!
Mine were just shipped today… I like the design too CK- seems to make a lot better use of the copper
Mine were just shipped today… I like the design too CK- seems to make a lot better use of the copper
Oh yeah, polygon pour is much more elegant
I was wondering can we just buy like 100 of these… Adapt them. http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Zener-diode-1W-4-7V-1N4732-In-line-diode/330416_1982585508.html
I was wondering can we just buy like 100 of these… Adapt them. Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
Looks like it should work. It will be a pain though, and in QTY 100 I think you lose money vs purchasing the standard SOD-123 part.